Burda Style Top and Skirt (03/2017 #124 and 01/2009 #125)

Often I have spur of the moment thoughts about what I want to make. The fabric “speaks to me” or an outfit pops up in my mind – it gets stuck in my head, and I just have to make it. This outfit is one I envisioned and hoped it would come to light just as I dreamed up.

Let’s start with the skirt.

Pattern: BurdaStyle 03/2017 #124 Maxi Skirt with Side slits

Magazine description:  “A perfect last-minute piece! The skirt with slits along both sides has a casing at the waistline and contrasting coloured cord to draw it together. It is a comfortable choice for styling with many options.  And, it works with sneakers, too.”

Date Sewn: 08/28/2020

My measurements at the time: 31 waist, 45.5 hip

Size used: straight 48

Alterations: I used a 69” long drawstring instead of the 74” the pattern called for. I ended up with 34” long of the 1.5” wide elastic in the waist.  I could tighten it by an inch or so next time.

The pattern stated to add 1&5/8 “ to the hem but the skirt was so very long when I tried it on.  I ended up taking 2” off the hem and then folded up 1” and up 1” again to make the hem.  (The pattern states to turn 1” hem to the inside and then turn the edges under to half allowance width before stitching in place). So in all I took 3” total off what the magazine said for the hem length.  For reference, I am 5’7” tall.

Instructions:  They were actually good.  I had no issue following them or understanding what was asked to sew.

Fabric: 3 yards of a precut from FabricMart.  It says 100% cotton in the description but it is clearly made with some, if not all, polyester. It made that snapping sound under my needle, frayed like crazy, and just feels like polyester.  Pattern calls for 2.5 yards of fabric and I guess that could just barely work; I used the 3 yards I had and there was very little left over.  Black/White Swallow Polka dot print sateen shirting 100% cotton, is the description. I purchased it in Feb 2019 for $4.80 TOTAL so $1.60/yard? (The dots are actually tiny birds!).

close up of “dots”

Thoughts: This looks like such a simple skirt from the picture, but you have hip pockets, a drawstring to add, and awesome self facing slits on both sides of the skirt.  It took a bit longer to sew than I expected but it was enjoyable.  Everything came together nicely and all the pieces matched up perfectly. I would love to try to make it in a Challis like as the magazine suggests.

I made this skirt to go with the shirt below but I don’t like how they pair up after all.  So now I need to figure out what sort of shirt to wear with this skirt. I like the skirt and I can see myself wearing it often – I especially love those slits in both sides; however, the waist is a bit too big and I don’t know where it sits best on me – lower on my hips or at my actual waist.  Here are some pics of the two together.

And now for the top.

Pattern: Burda 01/2009 #125 “polo shirt” (I just have to say, the magazine calls this a polo shirt, maybe because of the placket? But to me a polo shirt has to have a collar as well, this to me is a t-shirt)

Magazine description:   “The fine jersey knit is pleasant to wear and lends this little top with polo fastening and short, puffed raglan sleeves a sporty look. And nothing can go wrong if you follow our illustrated sewing course in the sewing supplement.”

Date Sewn: 08/28/2020

My measurements at the time: High Bust 37, bust 39, waist 31, hip 45.5

Size used: I had to do some grading out on this top.  The magazine only goes 36-42 and I am a 44 bust/waist and 48 hip in Burda.  So I graded the pattern out to the 44 bust/waist and 48 hip. It wasn’t very hard to grade out these sizes as the pattern pieces are very straight forward.

Alterations: This pattern had you add 1.25” for the hem allowance but this shirt was crazy long on me.  I have sewn a decent amount of Burda patterns now and I don’t remember other ones being so long.  I took 2” off the hem and sewed a 1” hem.  In the future, I don’t need to add the hem allowance on this pattern.  After I was all finished it was too big in the bust so I went back and took it in from the sleeves/underarms/ through the bust and graded back out to 0 at the waist. This made the shirt sizing 42 for the sleeves/bust, 44 for the waist, and 48 for the hip.

Instructions:  This pattern is actually the “sewing course” for this issue.  I had no problems with the instructions.  Even with the placket, everything was explained well and there are great pictures for each step.

Fabric: At first I thought this was a wine colored double brushed poly from my stash, but it was an absolute bear to work with.  I sew with dbp all the time and have no trouble so I got really frustrated.  This fabric would not cooperate no matter what I tried.  I had to walk away from sewing this top for 2 days to settle my frustrations.  When I came back to the top, it finished up nicely.  I then looked at my fabric database and see it is a modal jersey.  It is soft and brushed like dbp, but much thinner, more fluid – refuses to hold an iron press.  I don’t think the placket lays well at the bottom because the fabric is so thin.  I love this top design, but I honestly despise this fabric.  I will remake it in a nicer jersey knit sometime.  Anyway, I used “cranberry knit activewear” modal/lycra jersey that I purchased from LDG textiles going out of business sale, in Aug 2019, for $2 for the yard.

Thoughts: I love the design.  The gathered neck and sleeve edges make for interesting details – they make this no ordinary t-shirt.  I actually do like how the placket looks in this design too – with proper fabric. Even though I dislike this fabric, once I put the top on it was so soft and comfortable that I just didn’t take it off! I made it to go with the above skirt, but I really don’t like the two together.   I like the placket and spent the time making the button holes all proper, attaching the buttons.  And then I realized when I was all done that I didn’t need to actually open the buttons to get the shirt on or off.  So if you make this, you can just sew the buttons right down over those button holes if you wanted to save time.  The magazine says to use snaps but I didn’t have any that matched so I went with real buttons. This top will go with many of my pants and shorts in my wardrobe though so it will get lots of wear.

I was taking my blog pictures like normal and Miss K decided to come in and make fun of me. After a bit of banter it turns out she wants to be my photographer.  So today’s pics are courtesy of Miss K. Here is my “what do you want?” pose.

Also, I dyed my hair this reddish color this month – for fall, because I was bored, and because I used to dye my hair all the time but haven’t in like 2 or 3 years.  I’m not sure if I like it or not.  I am a “cool” coloring and I think this shade might be too “warm” for me.  Oh well. It isn’t like I’m going anywhere!

Thanks for reading!

Kristin

Clothes for the girl

I had a relatively uneventful procedure last week and am pretty much recovered.  I wanted to thank you for your kind comments on my last post.  I have the results already but do not meet with my doctor for 2 weeks to discuss. 

So, Miss K hit a decent growth spurt recently and needed some new clothes.  I’m trying to bribe her to take pictures so we will see how many of my makes I can get photographed.  Here are the first 5 things I made her.



First up is Jalie 3355 Hoodie
I used size Q for the shoulders/bust/height and size R from the waist down.  This is 1 size up from her measurements because last time I made this hoodie it just fit and I wanted a little growing room added in. 



I’ve made this hoodie for her before: January 2015 I made K a polka dot hoodie;  March 2015 I made her a pac man one  and also a teal hippie bus one. This hoodie is the perfect pattern and I’ve even made it for myself in purple and tie dye.



The instructions are fantastic, but all Jalie ones are.  I am such a visual person so the written steps are nice but the pictures steps are what really help me.
 


Fabric: 1.5 yards of red sweatshirt fleece.  “hearts on red”  I picked this up in February 2015 for $4.50 a yard.  I wish I had bought more!  Do you ever get fabric that you wish you had just bought a whole bolt of?  Anyway, I also used some navy cotton lycra scraps.  Hoodie total cost was $6.75



Next time:  I think I will take 1” out of the overall height because with the band that you can’t always see in these pictures, this hoodie is a bit long on K.  She likes to wear it but asked for it to be shorter next time.  She also asked to have a kitty heart put on the front with my silhouette machine. 

(here is before Kitty heart was added)

The pants she is wearing here are Ottobre 01/2009 #29 Saija Sweatpants.  These pants are no stranger to this blog.  This is her favorite pants pattern.  I think if I counted right this is the 10th and 11th pair I’ve made for her. 





I used size 152, reduced the front rise by 1” and shortened by 1” in length.  I use 1.5” wide elastic inside the yoga waistband to help hold them up.



Fabric: Dark Navy Blue Jersey Knit, cotton lycra.  This fabric is super nice and beefy at 11oz in weight. It was a dream to sew and it feels so nice in hand.  I purchased this in March and used 1 yard for $3.95.






I sewed her up another pair in a light french terry.  It is a Ruby Two Tone French Terry Fabric and made of 87% Polyester 9% Rayon 4% Spandex.  This fabric is so super soft I knew K would like it. 



She actually didn’t like them at first – hated the heathered look of the fabric – but now has come around and likes them. I picked this up in Nov 2015 for $7.40 for the yard.



With the leftover 1/2 yard of sweatshirt fabric from the hoodie I decided to try a shorts pattern out for K. This is Jalie 2445.  I used size R on the shorts and Q for the rise/height.  They turned out really cute but also really, really short.  K uses them for bedtime because she’s a hot sleeper.  Shorts: $2.25



I made this pattern a second time in Lilac Purple Cotton Spandex Knit.  Same R sizing and Q for the rise.  I added 1/4” to the side seams though to give K’s hips more room.  I added 1/2” full butt adjustment and 3” to the length of the legs.  These are just ok.  They fit nice on the hips and nothing is wrong with them, K just doesn’t prefer them.  These are pajama shorts now too.  I picked up this fabric in August 2015. Cost of shorts: $3.25



In summary, K received 2 pairs of pants, 2 pairs of shorts, and a hoodie for $23.60 total. 

If you follow me on Instagram you have seen that I am almost finished with a Maxi dress for me.  It is turning out nicely!  I’m also working on a tank for me as well as K.  I have started putting together my summer “want to sew” list.  Have you started your summer sewing yet?

~ Happy Sewing! ~

Kristin

Last Sewings of 2015

Here are the last things I’ve sewn in 2015.  I made them all in the last week and hoped I could get pictures before the new year! 

Pattern: I just couldn’t stay away from the Patterns for Pirates patterns.  I wanted to try the Henley.  It is a bit more fitted than the Raglan so I went with my actual measurements.  I cut and sewed a size L in the bust/waist and XL in the hips.  I sewed the placket neck, long sleeves hemmed, and curved hemline.  Of course this pattern has a ton of different options to sew, like all P4P patterns. 



Instructions and Sewing: The instructions are great but I was just slightly confused with one step of the placket.  You know how I struggle with those plackets!  I still think Jalie’s 2562 incturctions for a placket are the best yet.  The curved hem was very sharp too.  Usually there is a small flat part at the hip which makes it easy to turn up the hem.  This one met at an angle and was a bear to hem.  I had to snip my fabric just to get it to turn.  I’d modify this curve a bit if I sew it again. 



Fabric: The very softest French Terry I’ve ever felt.  Wearing this fabric is like wearing a cloud!  2 yards of Navy Two Tone French Terry Fabric from Stylish Fabric.  Purchased Nov 2015 for $14.80.  I thought it would be much thicker and have 4 way stretch.  It only has 2 way and is really thin, but still super soft.  87% Polyester 9% Rayon 4% Spandex mix.  I can’t recommend Stylish Fabric as a place to buy though.  They took forever to get my fabric to me and most of it was so thin. 



Thoughts: I love the feel of this top.  I love the color.  I’m not sure if it looks to much like Pajamas to be worn in public though.  I also have a bit of pulling across my butt so I need to add a 1/2” of fabric there next time.  I don’t want to take it off, however, so it must be a win!




Pattern: The P4P raglan strikes again!  This is the 3rd one I’ve sewn this month.  This shows how much I love this pattern!



Instructions and sewing: You can read my thoughts on the instructions in my other two posts: elephant raglan and hooded raglan.  I added 2” to the length.  This one is also a size M bust/waist to an XL at the hip.  I used the curved hem, long sleeves with cuffs, and round neckline.  The curve on this hem is perfect and I had no issues turning it up to hem it.  I slimmed 3 inches off each side seam from nothing at bust to 3” at waist to nothing at hip.  I like the slimmer fit. 



Fabric: 1.25 yards of Teal/Purple Print Double Knit, 97% Polyester 3% Lycra; purchased from fashionfabricsclub in Oct 2015 for $6.19 and 1 yard of Peacock Blue Solid Cotton Spandex Knit from Girl Charlee, Aug 2015 for $6.50.  Total for shirt: $12.69



Thoughts: I love this one just as much as the other two I made.  I like that this one is long enough to wear my leggings with!  My hooded one was just a tad too short for leggings.  I feel that leggings aren’t pants, and my tops must be long enough to cover my butt to wear the leggings, lol. 


Next I made a ton (7) Pairs of Jalie 3242 underwear for myself with fabric scraps.  I found this blog post showing me how to have the front and back crotch seams enclosed so I modifed my pattern for this.  I love them all but the bird one (yellow) has to be my fav. pair.  Yes, I used my silhouette to vinyl my underwear!  I’m addicted, what can I say : )  Anyway, I’ve made this pattern numerous times and I just love the fit.  They are so comfortable and actually cover my whole backside.  The best part is that they do not ride at all.  I used fold over elastic on all the leg seams and waists. 




Miss K received two new pairs of Ottobre 01/2009 #29 Saija Sweatpants.  This is her favorite pants pattern.  I think if I counted right this is the 8th and 9th pair I’ve made for her.  I sized up to the 152, reduced the front rise by 1” and shortened by 2” in length.  I use 2” wide elastic inside the yoga waistband to help hold them up. 



Fabric: 1 yard of Bright Purple Velour purchased Oct 2015 from fashionfabricsclub for $3.75; and 1 yard of “mouse” gray velour purchased Dec 2014 from Natures Fabrics for $9.




And Mr. T received a new pair of pajama shorts from the pattern he loves most Ottobre 06/2011 #37 Green Check Boxer Shorts



These shorts have been made 10 times before!
Bear Flannel and Space Nov 2014
Bart Simpson and Perry the Platypus May 2014
Long pjs pants and fuzzy shorts Jul 2013
Altered to shorts with piped pockets Jun 2013
Terry Cloth pj shorts Feb 2013
Space pj shorts with mock fly Jan 2013
Blue gingham shorts with mock fly Jan 2013

Fabric: 1.5 yards Pokemon Characters Blue Cotton Woven.  From Hancocks in Sept. 2015 for $7.71 on sale. 

I sized up to a 164 this time and added 1” to the waistband to fit in my 2” elastic.  They were a bit low before this and is rear was starting to show.  Now they fit great, if a little bit to grow into. 




So that’s it for 2015.  My next post will list my stats for the year and such.   I'm giddy with excitement to look over all my charts and data because I'm a numbers geek like that :D

Jalie 3355 Sweatshirt/Hoodie with Ottobre pants

I seem to be collecting Jalie patterns and sewing from them only sporadically.  I hope to change that!  Here is Jalie 3355, it is a Sweatshirt/hoodie and sweatpants pattern.

I made K view B - the Hoodie.

Size: Width of P and Height of M. This coordinates with most of her measurements.  Her chest is 2" smaller than the pattern states but sweatshirts are supposed to be roomy.

Fabric: 1.5 yards white dots on black sweatshirt knit fabric from purple seamstress, purchased for $15 total in November 2014.  Purple in lining is a tiny piece of lovely Cotton Lycra also from purple seamstress, purchased at the same time.

Instructions: I love Jalie instructions.  They are printed on the pattern paper, but you can also print them off from the website. I always do this to have them handy.  I love that they have pictures for pretty much each step along with the written directions - I'm a visual person.

Sadly I somehow missed the Kangaroo pocket steps because they are at the bottom of the page that talks about sewing techniques to use. I usually skip that page. Whoops!  I attached it after I had sewn the sleeves on and sides together. It was a bit cramped but I got it.  Also, The instructions state to fold top and sides to the wrong side but do not say by how much.  I winged it and just did 1/2".  It worked fine.

The rest of the instructions were spot on.  I had no issues, until I sewed the hood.  The pattern asks for sweatshirt fabric with 10% stretch, mine had none.  I'm not sure if this was the issue or not but there was no way that hood was getting over K's head. I didn't have any more of the dot fabric left to cut a new, larger hood.  So K and I agreed that we would use the ribbing fabric for the hood. Now it fits perfect. She also wanted it lined in purple.  No problem.  I will have the hood lining pictures near the bottom of this post if anyone is interested.  It is pretty simple to line a hood :) Plus I do not enjoy seeing the seam if left unlined.

In addition to changing the hood to a stretchy fabric, I had to shave 1/2" off the neckline of the bodice for K's head to fit through.  She likes it. It fits her very nicely.

I made purple Ottobre 01/2009 #29 "Saija" Sweatpants to go with the sweatshirt since the hood lining was purple.  While I was at it I sewed up a gray pair too.  Both are of Cotton Velour.  Fuzzy pants are always welcome in the winter.  Size 146. Since I've sewn this Ottobre pattern seven times now, I'll spare you the review :P  But here they are and they will be much loved.
Fabric: Purple: Juicy Amethyst Cotton Velour, 1 yard, $9 from Nature's Fabrics Dec 2014.
Gray: Juicy Charcoal Heather Cotton Velour, 1 yard, $9 from Nature's Fabrics Dec 2014.

K took off to read a new book in her sweat set.  So they must be a hit!

Hood lining steps:
cut 1 of hood, cut 1 of lining. I took 1" off lining on straight edge at front so it would turn nicely to the inside when topstitching.

 Sew curved sides of each, separately.  Then put R sides together of hood and lining and sew them together on the long straight edges that make the front (not the bottom).

 Turn them R side out and stuff lining into hood. Press all around that outside facing edge.  Since my purple lining was 1: shorter here it went inside my hood nicely.  I made sure to turn in so that 1/2" of my hoodie was to the inside.

 Topstitch and enjoy! Now you can attach to bodice as normal.

~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~