Thursday, July 19, 2018

Pajamas for All! 5oo4 Pajama Pants


For some reason I always seem to make flannel pajamas during the heat of July.  This time I decided to try the free pattern from 5 out of 4.

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5 out of 4 - Pajama Pants Pattern
Mr. Sunny Me Mr. T Miss K
Size Xlarge Medium Small Small
Rise Low Low Low Low
Hem no change added 1" added 1/2" added 1.5"

I scooped 1/2” out of the back butt curve for Miss K and I.  I also added 1/2” to the front thigh for my pants.  The pattern specifically states in the instructions:

“This is a loose fit pattern based on hip size (measured at fullest
point). Fit is a personal preference, but as a general rule I
recommend women select the low rise and size down if you want
a slimmer fit (they will still be roomy enough to be comfortable).”

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My waist is in the Small range and my Hips were in the Large. BUT I followed the instructions and sized down to a Medium.  If you are a pear shaped woman with an ample bottom half I strongly suggest ignoring the instructions and sew the size your hip corresponds to.  Mine turned out a bit snug across the butt/hip and I’m sad about that; because after sewing 4 pairs, I’m very tired of sewing these kind of pants.  I’ll remake mine in a Med waist/Large hip sometime, just not soon. 

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The pockets on these pants are awesome. They have the perfect room and opening for a phone.  The top gets caught in the sewing for the elastic waistband and so the pockets stay in front and don’t flop all over (I hate floppy pocket bags!). 

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Thoughts from Miss K:  they are good. Baggy in the crotch though (she likes super low rise pants). I managed to catch the elusive Miss K on camera in her pjs.


Thoughts from Mr. T: good.  (They fit him perfectly).

Thoughts from Mr. Sunny: good. (They fit him great but he needs an extra inch in length next time and maybe a bit higher rise in front by an inch).

My thoughts:  as I explained above, mine are a tad snug in the hip area.  I love the pockets.  The crotch is slightly baggy in front but not annoyingly so.  The back rise is sufficient to cover everything. I do wish mine were longer too, by about an inch. 

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Fabric:
Mr. Sunny: 2  5/8 yard of 57” wide Deep Blue/Brown Plaid Flannel.  Purchased from FashionFabricsClub in Jan 2015.  $9.90 total. This is a thinner and less soft flannel but I’ve had it forever and just wanted to use it up.  Yay for stash busting! One thing that I dislike about FFC is the misrepresentation of fabrics.  This description was “This lightweight cotton fabric has a very soft, brushed surface.”  No, not soft, barely brushed.  Their fabrics are cheap but it’s always hit or miss with quality.

Me: PRE-CUT 2  7/8 YARDS- Sky Blue/White 100% Cotton Polka Dot Cozy Cotton Flannel - Robert Kaufman – 43W from FabricMart for $4.80 total…. total!! You can’t beat that! Purchased Feb 2018.  This fabric is so soft and awesome!

Mr. T: 3 yards Snuggle Flannel Fabric 42” wide – “Skylar Blue Black Plaid;” purchased Nov 2017 for $2.69/yard. Cost $8.07 total.

Miss K: 3 yards Snuggle Flannel Fabric 42" wide- “Little Pups In Sweaters;”  purchased Nov 2017 for $2.69/yard (yay black Friday sale!).  cost $8.07 total.

The snuggle flannel from Joann's is soft and has cute prints.  Time will tell how they hold up after many washings.  The Robert Kaufman flannel is the best feeling out of what I used.  It sews wonderfully and feels like it will last a long time. 




Here is my updated Spring/Summer Sewing Plans.  I am also working on a Fall/Winter sewing list.
SWAP Spring 2018 updated1

Thursday, June 14, 2018

Jalie 3881 Rose - Sleeveless Button Down Shirt

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I made View A with one pocket

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Size: V for Shoulder/Bust/Waist, and grading to Y at the hip. Exact to my measurements

Alterations: None

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Instructions: Excellent as always; very well written.  These are by far the best collar pieces and instructions I have ever seen and sewn.

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Fabric: 2 yards of cotton Poplin from a FabricMart Precut sale.  Seagreen/White/Black 100% Cotton Little Lambs Print Poplin - Cotton + Steel – 44W; Total cost: $3.30 for this top

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Thoughts: excellent top, awesome fit. I really loved putting this collar together. I have never sewn one that looked so good. I enjoy the forward shoulder seam too.  My fabric is really soft but structured.  It looks looser fit than if I had made the top in something clingier and drapey like challis

Issues: The pocket. I feel like it is situated too high. Also, the armhole sits forward, showing straight into my bra.  However, if it were tighter there I wouldn’t have as much ease of movement.

I was a tester for this pattern and I think the top looks great, I love it; especially with my Jalie Drop Pocket Cardigan as above. 

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Sunday, June 10, 2018

Jalie 3677 Helene Cardigan - SWAP

3677_6__32831.1489186388.500.750


Size: V at Shoulder/Bust/Waist to Y at Hip

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Alterations:
  • 1/2” forward shoulder
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Instructions: excellent!  I love the pictures with the written instructions.  I’m such a visual person and they help me out a lot.  This cardigan was fun to sew, it was like putting together a puzzle.  The pieces are very unique.

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Fabric:  2 yards Heather Slate Grey Sweater Knit, 90% Polyester 8% Rayon 2% Lycra blend. Purchased Sept 2017 from Fashion Fabrics Club for $3.94 per yard.  Total for Cardi: $7.88

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Thoughts: 
  • I love the design. 
  • I love how the shaping is in the back. 
  • It sews up super, super fast.
  • I feel like the pockets are too far back to be useful (on the pattern photo she is clearly pulling the cardi forward for her hands to be that far ahead).
  • I feel like the cardi needs a button on the front middle. 
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I’m sure I’ll make this pattern again some time and when I do I will shift the pockets forward a bit and add a button.  It’s a great pattern!

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I was so excited for this cardi to look great that I even mitered the corners, and sewed around them with my coverstitch

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Spring/Summer Plan:

Friday, June 8, 2018

Spring SWAP Dresses ~ New Look 6301 & Ottobre 02/17 #11


New Look 6301 Wrap Dress, View B
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Size: Bodice size 12, hip size 14. This is 1 size down in bust and almost 3 sizes down in hip.  I read comments that the dress was large so I sized down and actually did a tissue fitting! 

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Alterations: The tissue fitting showed me many areas to fix before cutting into my fabric. 
  • I took 1/2” tuck from neckline at the collarbone because of gaping there. 
  • I graded the bottom of the sleeve from a 12 to a 14 to accommodate my larger biceps. 
  • The sleeve cap had a whooping 2.5” of ease… in a knit!! My pet peeve.  So I dropped the tall, narrow cap down about an inch – this gave me 1.25” in ease and also made it wider on top – this fits me much better at the shoulder than those tall sleeve caps.
  • 1/2” swayback
  • 1/2” forward shoulder adjustment
  • 1/4” out of CB at neckline to 1/2” out at center back, then to 0” at bottom of bodice.  The pattern has an outward curve in the mid back which was completely opposite of what I needed.  This alteration straightened out the back and solved that issue. 
  • I cut the ties at the size 20 since many people complained how short they were.
  • Skirt pieces 7 & 8 are the exact same so I just cut 2 of #7.
  • I cut two of the front R pieces (#1) and didn’t bother with the front L piece.

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Instructions: The instructions were ok. They explained what I needed to do and I had no issues with them.  I did sew my dress up a bit different in order – easier in my mind.  Pleated fronts, sewed to back at shoulder.  Added front binding, sewed in ties to back. Then sewed sleeves in flat, and sewed up sides.  I sewed skirts together and then sewed skirt to bodice in the round. It went together fairly quickly.

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Fabric: Pattern calls for 2.5 yards fabric for my size.  I somehow made this with only 1.5 yards.  This fabric was from the Fabric Mart precut sale.  I purchased it in Sept 2017 for $3.05 a yard; total $4.58 for this dress.  It is listed as 92% Rayon/8% Lycra blend with 4 way stretch.  The fabric is heavier than most rayon/lycra I own and so so soft.  This fabric cut, sewed, and pressed like a dream.

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Thoughts: I really love this dress!  I was hoping it would work out since the fabric is super soft.  I love the color, the drape, the look.  I do find that the dress grows a little during the day and that the heavier fabric doesn’t have as much recovery as I would like.  But, those are minor things.  If I make the dress again (I already have plans for the tank view) then I want to take another whole inch out of the center back at the neckline – it is still a bit wide in back.  I would also shorten the front bindings and make the front cross over tighter – but this may just be the fabric’s problem with the growing/recovery issue. 

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I think it’s a fantastic “fake” wrap dress pattern.  I would recommend it to anyone!


Ottobre 02/2017 #11 – Tee Shirt Dress
otto 217 11
Size: 42 for bust/waist to 46 at hip. Also made the sleeve 42 at the cap out to 44 at the hem (to gain some width at the bicep).

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Alterations:
  • 1/2” forward shoulder adjustment
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Instructions: This is a simple T-shirt dress.  I sewed it up without looking at the instructions.  I sewed one shoulder, added neck binding, sewed other shoulder.  Then I sewed in the sleeves and added binding to the bottoms of them. After this I just sewed up the side seams and hemmed it.  It was super fast. 

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Fabric: 1.75 yards - Bright Turquoise/White 100% Cotton, Plus Sign Design, Interlock Knit – 60W; purchased Sept 2017 for $5.60 total also from Fabric Mart’s precut sale. 

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Thoughts: I made this for a nightgown, I love it for that purpose.  A few days in MeMadeMay I just wore the dress all day.  It is soft and comfortable, easy to throw on and go.  The interlock is thicker and less stretchy than most knits but it works well in this dress. I have no complaints!

Here’s an updated look at how my Spring/Summer Sewing Plan is going:

SWAP Spring 2018 updated