Spring SWAP Dresses ~ New Look 6301 & Ottobre 02/17 #11

New Look 6301 Wrap Dress, View B


Size: Bodice size 12, hip size 14. This is 1 size down in bust and almost 3 sizes down in hip.  I read comments that the dress was large so I sized down and actually did a tissue fitting! 



Alterations: The tissue fitting showed me many areas to fix before cutting into my fabric. 

• I took 1/2” tuck from neckline at the collarbone because of gaping there. 
• I graded the bottom of the sleeve from a 12 to a 14 to accommodate my larger biceps. 
• The sleeve cap had a whooping 2.5” of ease… in a knit!! My pet peeve.  So I dropped the tall, narrow cap down about an inch – this gave me 1.25” in ease and also made it wider on top – this fits me much better at the shoulder than those tall sleeve caps.
• 1/2” swayback
• 1/2” forward shoulder adjustment
• 1/4” out of CB at neckline to 1/2” out at center back, then to 0” at bottom of bodice.  The pattern has an outward curve in the mid back which was completely opposite of what I needed.  This alteration straightened out the back and solved that issue. 
• I cut the ties at the size 20 since many people complained how short they were.
• Skirt pieces 7 & 8 are the exact same so I just cut 2 of #7.
• I cut two of the front R pieces (#1) and didn’t bother with the front L piece.

Instructions: The instructions were ok. They explained what I needed to do and I had no issues with them.  I did sew my dress up a bit different in order – easier in my mind.  Pleated fronts, sewed to back at shoulder.  Added front binding, sewed in ties to back. Then sewed sleeves in flat, and sewed up sides.  I sewed skirts together and then sewed skirt to bodice in the round. It went together fairly quickly.



Fabric: Pattern calls for 2.5 yards fabric for my size.  I somehow made this with only 1.5 yards.  This fabric was from the Fabric Mart precut sale.  I purchased it in Sept 2017 for $3.05 a yard; total $4.58 for this dress.  It is listed as 92% Rayon/8% Lycra blend with 4 way stretch.  The fabric is heavier than most rayon/lycra I own and so so soft.  This fabric cut, sewed, and pressed like a dream.



Thoughts: I really love this dress!  I was hoping it would work out since the fabric is super soft.  I love the color, the drape, the look.  I do find that the dress grows a little during the day and that the heavier fabric doesn’t have as much recovery as I would like.  But, those are minor things.  If I make the dress again (I already have plans for the tank view) then I want to take another whole inch out of the center back at the neckline – it is still a bit wide in back.  I would also shorten the front bindings and make the front cross over tighter – but this may just be the fabric’s problem with the growing/recovery issue. 



I think it’s a fantastic “fake” wrap dress pattern.  I would recommend it to anyone!


Ottobre 02/2017 #11 – Tee Shirt Dress

Size: 42 for bust/waist to 46 at hip. Also made the sleeve 42 at the cap out to 44 at the hem (to gain some width at the bicep).



Alterations:

• 1/2” forward shoulder adjustment

Instructions: This is a simple T-shirt dress.  I sewed it up without looking at the instructions.  I sewed one shoulder, added neck binding, sewed other shoulder.  Then I sewed in the sleeves and added binding to the bottoms of them. After this I just sewed up the side seams and hemmed it.  It was super fast. 



Fabric: 1.75 yards - Bright Turquoise/White 100% Cotton, Plus Sign Design, Interlock Knit – 60W; purchased Sept 2017 for $5.60 total also from Fabric Mart’s precut sale. 



Thoughts: I made this for a nightgown, I love it for that purpose.  A few days in MeMadeMay I just wore the dress all day.  It is soft and comfortable, easy to throw on and go.  The interlock is thicker and less stretchy than most knits but it works well in this dress. I have no complaints!

Here’s an updated look at how my Spring/Summer Sewing Plan is going:

Spring Maxi Dress and a Failed Cardi

The other day WI hit 50-something degrees so I thought “Oh, it’s a great day for photos!” and ran outside to take some.  I was a bit too eager because the sunshine, while nice, was not in my favor for good photos plus the ground was soppy, muddy, squishy, and gross.  I’m posting them anyway.

The dress.  Boundless by Patterns for Pirates



I made a sleeved version this time, maxi, and the bodice is lined.  There are also pockets.  I started this dress sometime last fall and just couldn’t get the motivation to finish it.  I love pockets in dresses but sometimes all that extra work has me procrastinating. 



This is a modified Boundless.  I do not like the back being so low so I raised the back neck 3”. I made a 1/2” forward shoulder adjustment. I also felt restricted in my other tank boundless when I walked, so this time I used the skirt from the Made for Mermaids Chloe.  It has much more room at the ankle.

Size used: Large.



Fabric:  Originally I ordered 2 yards of this beautiful Knitpop fabric.  Then I cut the front skirt and realized I needed more fabric, it would not fit with just 2 yards.  I went and ordered another 2 yards just to be sure.  It is the Double Brushed Denim Teal Amber Floral on Poly Spandex; $8.50/yd from Knitpop.  I then had leftover fabric after I cut this dress out so I quick made up a Sweet Tee with the leftovers.  So, I would say this dress used 3 yards.



Thoughts:  It fits well.  I’m glad I added width to the bottom of the skirt, it flows better when I walk.  I love the fabric.  I like the dress a lot, but I’m not in love with it.  Sometime between fall and finishing it I just sort of fell out of love and wanted to just get it done.  Maybe as time goes on I will enjoy it more. 



I like to serge fold over elastic at the waist.  it helps the gathers retain their shape and the FOE is soft so it doesn't irritate my skin the way elastic does.

McCalls 6996 - Failed Cardi

I can’t even tell you when I made this it has been so long ago now.  It was one of those projects I was super excited for, sewed it up right away, and then hated it.  So it sat and sat and I never photographed it or blogged about it.  It lived on my dress form, Betty for many months now. 



I’m not sure if it is because of a bad fabric choice, or the pattern itself.  So many people like this pattern and it looks great on others – so I have to assume it is the fabric.



Size: Large. I made a size L because at that time my bust was 39” (it is 37.5 now); The cardi was too big then and now.  I made view C/D.  I also did a 1/2” forward shoulder adjustment.



The fit unpleasant; too long in the arms, big overall.  The fabric is thicker yoga knit (on it’s own it is so soft and amazing but apparently totally wrong for this cardi).  I’m also unsure of when I got this fabric but I put it in my database Dec 2016.  I used 2 yards “cranberry DBP Yoga blend” from knitpop.





I’ll salvage the yoga knit if I can – hack it up into something else.  I may try this cardi pattern again sometime in a much drapier fabric and in a size M.

Summer Dresses ~ Brazi and Agnes

I love maxi dresses.  If I could wear only them, I would.  But sometimes it’s hard to walk in them or do things I need to; they are not always practical.  So I this summer I made two dresses that were not maxis. 

Stitch Upon A Time ~ Brazi

I’ve sewn this pattern quite a few times if you count the mini version as well as the adult version.
Purple maxi, blue mini maxi, purple animal mini maxi, stripe mini maxi, pink floral baby dress, red floral baby dress, teal maxi, red butterfly mini maxi, and light blue mini maxi.  



This would be the 10th time I’ve made this pattern.  I love this pattern.



Anyway, I sewed this June 8th and wore it quite a bit this summer.  This time I made straight straps (instead of cross over), which makes it much easier to wear a bra with the dress.




Size: straight size Medium and Band 3.  This fits with my measurements (on top).  The skirt has enough room that I did not have to size up for my pear shape.



Fabric: 1 yard black cotton lycra; purchased from Stylishfabrics.com for $6.90. 2 yards ITY Knit Venus Azalea; purchased from fabric.com in April 2016 dress, $10.76. Total cost of dress: $17.66.


Halla ~ Agnes


I love the silhouette of the Agnes.  It is nice and tapered at the bust/waist with flare and room at the hip.  I have made 2 tank top versions of this pattern and love them so I thought a dress would be nice.  Plus, this pattern is free if you join the Halla Facebook group. Who doesn’t love a free pattern?



Size: 10/12 everywhere except grading to a 14 at the hip. 



Fabric: 2 yards blue tribend jersey knit purchased in May from Knitpop for $10. this fabric is so soft and light to wear but it does have a tendency to cling to itself. I added the heart vinyl graphic to the front with my Silhouette Cameo.



Thoughts:  I enjoy wearing this dress because it is soft and easy to wear.  However, the armholes are a bit loose and my square shoulders pull at the somewhat boat neckline. Also, when the wind catches just right the dress poofs out and makes it look like you are wearing a tent.  I’ll be wearing this around home but not something I would wear elsewhere.

Everything’s Roses ~ P4P Sweetheart & Boundless with Jalie Shrug

These next 4 makes are probably my favorite things I’ve made in awhile.
(lots of pictures incoming).

Patterns For Pirates ~ Boundless Dress



Size: Straight size Large even though my hips are an XL (I was lazy that day)



Adjustments: Raised the back neck by 3”  The pattern has a low scoop back and this just isn’t my thing.


I also made a 1/2” forward shoulder adjustment.  I used the Tank, empire option, with pockets! 



Fabric: I got this luscious Double Brushed Polyester from an Auction box at Knitpop.  It worked out great!  I’m not sure if I had 2 yards or 2.5 yards or 3 yards.  Sorry, I didn’t measure I was just so excited to sew it up.



Thoughts: Love, love, love.  I wasn’t sure I would like it and didn’t by the pattern for the longest time. But I do love it!  Next time I make this I’ll sew with 1/4” Seam Allowance around the neck and arms – I feel they are just a tad too low.



I also need to make the skirt part XL to fit my hips; you can see a bit of pulling on the front toward my hips in the pictures.  Finally, I want to make the skirt wider at the bottom.  I find it just a small bit hard to walk in this skirt.  None of these changes take away from the fact that I love this dress though. 

(Me Made May 12,2017)

I made the dress in the late evening on May 6th

Black Jalie 3246 Shrug



I was looking all day for the perfect sweater/shrug for my other roses dress, below.  I wasn’t sure what I wanted until I saw this Jalie Shrug.  It was exactly what I was looking for. 



Size: Straight X



Adjustments: I made the bands around the bottom, bust, neck 1” wider.  I like this shrug just a little longer than my other one, below. 



Fabric: Black Stretch Jersey with Merino-like Wool Hacci Brush that I purchased in April 2017 from Stylish Fabrics, 1 yard for $7.90.  This fabric is so soft and fuzzy on the right side.  It has the perfect stretch and weight for this shrug.

Thoughts: Love it!  I want to make a million of these!

Patterns for Pirates ~ Sweetheart Dress



Size: straight size Large, tank version with full circle skirt



Adjustments: 1/2” forward shoulder adjustment



Fabric: 2 yards Double Brushed Polyester, Navy w/ Coral Pink Roses; I purchased this from knitpop in an auction box. It works out to $5.70 a yard this way.  so $11.40 total for the dress.



Thoughts: I love a circle skirt and soft fabric.  This dress is amazing, though difficult to wear when it’s windy.



I would change how I sewed the binding on the arms next time, maybe 1/4” SA? or add a bit to the armscythe/shoulder?  I’m not sure why but the bindings are so close to each other at the shoulder that I couldn’t topstitch them down. 

(Me Made May 16, 2017)

Red Jalie 3246 Shrug



Size: Straight Size X, no adjustments



Fabric: oh so soft red sweater knit.  I don’t know, I think I got it from knitpop? I seem to be obsessed with their amazing fabrics lately.  Let’s say I got it from knitpop.  This pattern uses only 1 yard. It’s fast to sew too!



I made sure to put a tag at the back neck so I wouldn’t be confused as to which way was up!

I’m slowly getting caught up with my makes!

Happy Sewing!
Kristin