Top 5 Misses of 2020

I thought I would do a few fun posts the end of this year.  The Sewcialists came up with a fun #SewingTop5 and I will play along.  Yesterday I posted my top 5 hits of 2020. Now it is time for my top 5 misses.  Then I will move on to non-sewing highlights, reflections, and goals.

The timeline I’m using is from June 2019-June 2020  that got the least wear.  I chose to include Middle 2019 to Middle 2020 because I usually don’t know about a make being a hit or a miss for awhile and a lot of my recent makes I won’t know if they are misses until 6 months or so goes by.

So here are my least worn makes from June 2019- June 2020

1. Helen’s Closet – Blackwood Cardigan

Made Sept 2019. Honestly it is no surprise this is on the list.  I love the fabric, but the fit from the start was not comfortable.  The sleeves on this pattern are excruciatingly tight. Needless to say it hangs in my closet unworn since it was made. I might like the pattern a lot better if my arms could breathe, but I have other patterns very similar that I can use with no adjustments (P4P grandpa cardigan, Sinclair Harper Cardi to name 2 off the top of my head).

2. Jalie – Alex 3907 Made Oct 2019. Another make that never really enjoyed was my second sewing of the Jalie Alex.  This fabric just feels all wrong on my body.  Comfort wins with me and this one isn’t comfortable.  The double fabric folds and bunches thickly and the weird arm folds feel gross. I do love this pattern, however, and I actually stole the one I made Miss K in fleece Llamas – which I wear all the time. In fleece this pattern is awesome. 3. Deer & Doe – Plantain Made Sept 2019.  I’m not even sure why I do not wear this top.  I loved my first plantain but then changed sizes and cut it up, so I re-made that first plantain and I find I just never wear it.  I have sewn this pattern 4 times now.  There isn’t any good reason as to why it’s not worn.  4. Jalie – Marie Claude 3667 Made Sept 2019. Here is another pattern I’ve sewn before and loved, yet when made this time I find I don’t like it as much.  My other one in a sheer sweater knit is amazing and I love it; I also loved it when I used a french terry knit.  This one in rayon spandex, not so much love.  I haven’t worn it or given it a chance once.  I find rayon spandex shows every lump and bump and I just don’t like how it feels on the body. 5. 5 out of 4 Nancy Dress Made Nov 2019. This one is no surprise to this list.  It was a dud straight away.  The fit was awful.  I liked the fabric, but not with this pattern.  It went to the “no way” bin just after blog photos. Most of the time my choices come down to comfort. Does it feel comfortable on me? Do I get too hot or too cold in it?  Is it soft enough?  Does it fit right? I find that many of my “misses” aren’t really the fault of the pattern, but usually a bad fabric choice to pair with the pattern. 

Barrett Bralette by Madalynne Intimates

Pattern: Barrett Bralette by Madalynne Intimates

From the website:

Pattern Overview: The Barrett is a sporty femme pull-on bralette (no hooks & eyes) that has adjustable shoulder straps, a triangle opening at center front and a wide elastic band at the bottom. It has a forgiving fit, and is meant to be an everyday basic style with a twist via cool fabrics and novelty hardware. Intended Bra Makers: The Barrett is a soft bra, meaning that it does not have underwires. The amount of stretch your fabric has and the firmness of your elastics will play a big role in the amount of support your bralette provides. The pattern is available in sizes XS-XL and is intended for small to medium cup sizes – cup sizes AA-C. The pattern is free (download link at the bottom of the post)! Date Sewn: 08/02/2020 My measurements at this time: 36 high bust, 38.5 bust, 32 underbust

I am a 32-34D in ready to wear bras. I know this pattern states it is drafted for an AA-C cup but I thought I would try it out anyway.

Size used: The pattern size chart states to use size XL for my bust measurement so that is what I traced and cut. THEN when I was reading the sewing instructions, buried in paragraph it talks about using the size for your band as what you would use. WTF.  My pieces already cut out, I wasn’t too pleased. My Band size is an “XS” according to this paragraph, yet my bust size is an XL.  I was confused. I sewed the cups according to the pattern and then used my wonder clips to clip the back band to the cups and tried it on.  Clearly it was going to be too big. So I recut the band to the Small size – thinking XS with my cup size wouldn’t work.  Then I cut 1/2” off the side width of the side cup (where the band and side cup meet) because I had to make that smaller somehow and I had already sewn the cup front and side together.  I really feel like this whole size chart and then band size should all be clearly laid out and easy to find. Instructions: Were they easy to follow? No. Honestly they were not. I read them all first before even tracing the pattern and was very confused. But I went line for line as I was making it and I got through it.  The style of the instructions are not like any I've used before.  Normal pattern: sew A, then b, then c, etc.  these instructions talked about why you would sew something a certain way, THEN told you sew A. Some parts I feel it talked about step C before even getting to sew Step A.  I can't explain this well enough but it was weird to read. I could follow the instructions, but it was difficult. Plus there are not clear pictures on what to sew and how to sew it. I get this is a free pattern, but step by step pictures would have been helpful. Fabric: Diamond Crochet Lace Knit Mint, it is 65% Polyester/35% Cotton and said it had 25% stretch but when I did my own stretch test it was more like 50% one way and very little the vertical way.  I purchased this mint lace from fabric.com in Feb 2016 for $5.93/yard.  I used so very little for this, maybe 1/4 yard.    For the lining I used Stretch Lining - Lt. Weight (Nude) I purchased from Spandex world in May 2017 for $5/yard; It is labeled as 100% Polyester - Fabric Weight: 4.5 Oz/Sq Yard.

I used some pink picot elastic (1/4”) for most of the trims. I used a pink “lace look” fold over elastic (foe) for the underband because regular elastic always bothers me there (allergic to latex) but for some reason foe doesn’t.  I also used foe for the straps.

For the bra strap rings and sliders I used these clear ones from Amazon.  I like them because they were cheap to buy, work great, wash well, and came to me fast. I used the 10mm size. Thoughts: I liked the look of this pattern so I thought I would give it a go. I've sewn sports bras and swim suits plenty, but this was my first "real bra" sewing. It looked easy enough for my first time with no wires or back hooks. I think it turned out cute looking. The keyhole front that I thought was so cute doesn’t lay correctly on me.  I think I need about 1/2” taken out of the lower center V where the keyhole is. This would help it lay more flat there instead of buckling.  Is this because I went with XL cups and not the width of the S band? I'm not sure. Is it the height that needs to be shortened on me instead? I don't know.

This bra took me a long time to sew. I started it at 10am and finished about 4pm. I did have a short break here and there but for the most part it was just bra sewing time. The pattern states that it could take an hour to sew. Ha!  6 hours for me, which could probably be shortened to 4 hours now that I know what I’m doing, and I'm not a new sewist.

Wearing the bra, the cups are comfortable. The straps are adjustable so the right length.  The band is the right tightness. However it’s that keyhole that causes all the problems. Between the buckling up there and the constant folding up underneath my breasts; it is annoying to wear. The foe sits about 1/2” lower than where my breasts end and crease. So it tries to constantly ride up into that crease – I hope that makes sense.

I've wanted to make this pattern forever so I'm glad I tried it out.

Thanks for reading!

Kristin

Catching up: 2 more patterns that didn’t make the cut

Pattern: Patterns for Pirates – Cocoon Cardigan

Date Sewn: sometime in 2017

My measurements at the time: 39 bust, 31 waist, 45 hip

Size used: L at bust/waist to XL at hip. I sewed the tunic length with hemmed sleeves and inseam pockets.

Fabric: a soft two tone red sweater knit, brushed on one side.  Very soft and nice fabric, I’m sad to see it not be worn.

Thoughts: All sorts of nope.  The fit of the cardigan is not good for a pear shape like me.  The bands flip out constantly and that drives me nuts.  I remember thinking that the bands were too short for the length of the cardigan and I struggled putting them on the curve with the measurements and marks given in the pattern.  The inseam pockets are not tied to anything so they flop around and they show beyond the bands when your hand is in them.  I really don’t like the shape of the cardigan on my body.  I won’t be making this pattern again.

 

Pattern: Patterns for Pirates – Sweet Tee

Date Sewn: sometime in 2017

Made before: plain black, teal floral, and another plain black

Size used: L for the bust/waist to XL at the hip. I sewed the Curved hem length, with long sleeve option.

My measurements at the time: 39 bust, 31 waist, 45 hip

Alterations: 1/2: square shoulder

Fabric: Crimson Red/Black Poly/Rayon/Lycra Heathered Jersey Knit, 1.5 yards purchased in May 2016 for $2.84 per yard with coupon from Fabricmart fabrics. It is almost sheer, very lightweight. Total $4.26

Thoughts: I have mixed thoughts.  I don’t like rayon spandex fabric – I’ve realized this over the years. This fabric is super light and feels more like rayon spandex than poly/rayon jersey.  I also don’t care for dolman sleeves, they feel weird.  I do like this pattern in double brushed poly so I guess its the fabric choice that made this one not work out - I don’t find it very flattering.

Thanks for reading!

Kristin

2 Fails ~ McCall’s M6957 and 5oo4 Nancy Dress

Every time I sew a pattern I expect it to turn out wonderful; unfortunately, that doesn’t always happen.  Here are two fails – One I might try to make again in a different fabric and one I will not attempt again.

Pattern: McCall’s M6957

My measurements at the time: 37.5 bust, 31 waist, 45 hip. (now in pic I'm 39 bust, 32 waist, 45.5 hip)

Size used: 16 bust/waist, 20 hip

Date Sewn: June 2017 (yes, 2017. LOL this has been in my ufo pile for a long time while I thought about how to save it).

Alterations: just grading out at the hip.

Fabric: a space dye knit with no real stretch, though it was listed as having ample stretch.  Its soft and flowy. Black/Grey Slubbed Jersey Knit 95% rayon 5% lycra.

Purchased from FashionFabricsclub in Aug 2016 for $3.95/yard.  I used 1.75 yards (it is 58” wide) – the pattern calls for 2 yards of 60” wide. Total: $6.91

Thoughts: frumpy. It didn’t turn out like the pattern envelope at all.  It doesn’t look nipped in at the waist. It doesn’t hang with flare at the hip/skirt part.  It is not flattering.

I thought maybe I could save it for a nightgown but its not even cute enough for that!  There are weird folds where the center back seam is, near the bottom hem.  I can’t even find the bands to finish the arms and neck.

This is a definite no for me. I’m probably not going to attempt the pattern again.  In fact, I lost the pieces to the pattern, which is rare for me.

***UPDATE*** I finished sewing this dress (neckband, armbands, and hem) in 2022 and I actually LOVE the dress now!!! If I made this pattern again I would SIZE DOWN!!! I wear this all the time now. Pattern: 5 out of 4 Nancy Dress

I’ve admired this dress from afar for a long, long time.  It looks like the perfect fall dress for me and I just love the look of it.  In actuality it turned out terrible on my body.

My measurements at the time: bust 39; waist 32; hip 47.5

Size used: M for bust/waist and 2x for hips.  Pattern options used: cuffs, cowl, long sleeve.

Date sewn: Nov 2019 – I never finished the hem or cuffs.

Alterations: just the grading out for the hips.

(pulling in the loose waist here helps some)

Fabric: 3 yards of Navy Hacci Classic Sweater knit  - 87% Polyester 9% Rayon 4% Spandex – purchased from Stylish Fabrics Aug 2016 for $4.50/yard. Total: $13.50

Thoughts: Oh where do I start.  This turned out so frumpy on me.  I don’t even know where to start.  It’s very loose fitting. It hangs funny. I’m not sure if the pattern doesn't work for me or the fabric choice. It is way too big in the waist which makes me look larger than I am.  Belting it doesn’t help. I might try again a different day with different fabric – much more stable fabric and not a looser sweater knit. This fabric is so soft but thin. I like the fabric, I just don’t think it was meant to be a dress.

You win some, you lose some. Usually I try everything I can to save a fail but these I’m just going to call it quits on and maybe hack up the fabric for something else.  Life is too short, Keep moving forward.

Thanks for reading!

Kristin

2 Misses;M4M Vivienne and Jalie Pika

I do not enjoy sewing fails.  Generally if I fail at a pattern I will rework it a few times to make sure – and generally I keep coming up with a fail each time! (Hello Jalie Eleonore's)! 

Most of the time the reason for the fail is one of two things: a. that the pattern doesn’t work for my body shape, or b. the fabric is the wrong choice. 

Today I have 2 patterns here that I loved the look of; I was so excited to make them and then neither turned out well for my body shape. 

Made For Mermaids – Vivienne

My measurements at the time: 39 bust, 32 waist, 46 hip

Size Sewn: Bust- Indigo; Waist- Green; Hip- Yellow

Started sewing this in July and then banned it to “the pile” to be chopped up for something else or revisited at a later time.

I sewed up the top length.  I used double brushed poly because I love how soft it is and I though the drape would work well. 

I used fold over elastic in the waist area to hold the gather shape because regular elastic makes me itchy. 

I got it all sewn up except the arm and neck bands and hem; when I tried it on I didn’t like it at all. 

It makes me look pregnant and lays funny on the hips due to the gathers only being in the front and back, not on the side panels.

I feel like the waist part sits too low on me.  It needs to be higher like an empire to hit my natural waist.

Jalie Pika

My measurements at the time: 38 bust, 31.5 waist, 41 high hip.

Size Sewn: W at bust/waist to Z at hip

Started sewing it in June 14th, 2019 and probably not finishing it.

Alterations: I added 1/2” to the back hip tapering to 0” at the waist to accommodate for my larger rear. I did not add a hem band, wanting to keep it loose and flowing by the hips.

On step 18-19 the elastic is NOT long enough to stitch and not stretch. it was like 3.5 inches short.

Fabric: The inner bra I used gray cotton lycra; the outer I used a turquoise triblend jersey that I purchased in May 2017 from knitpop for $5/yard.  It is super soft.

I like the fabric and like the look of the top – on others.  I tried it on and I felt so frumpy and larger due to no waist definition.  I really wanted this to work – you guys know I love my Jalie patterns!

I don’t think either of these are bad patterns.  I just feel like they work for someone of a different shape than me.  A pear shape needs that waist definition. 

P4P Essentials Tank and Sos Knit Shorts

I have started taking better notes when sewing.  I made myself a template and keep track of my measurements at the time, the date I start and finish an item, the size, alterations, and any notes.  I seem to make a bunch of things and then take forever to get pictures of them – then take longer to write a blog post about them.  So by the time I get to the post, I have forgotten a few details.  Now with the templates I should be able to keep those details until I”m ready to write about them.  

In the past month I’ve referenced quite a few of my blog posts before sewing things – the whole reason I blog, to keep track for myself. 

First up today:  Patterns for Pirates – Essentials Tank 



Made before: Black with green plaid (apr2017), as well as 3 for Miss K (Pink: jan2017, teal: jun2017, & space dye: dec2016)

My measurements at this time: 39 bust, 31.5 waist, 46 hip



Started sewing: 06/12/19, finished sewing 06/12/19

Size Sewn: L at bust/waist to XL at hip

Alterations/Options: curved hem, racerback.



Fabric: Plain black double brushed poly.  Where and when I picked it up is a guess because I have a few yards of black dbp. I think I got it in an auction box from Knitpop in June 2017. $3.70/yard – took 1 yard to make.  92% Poly 8% Spandex, 200gsm



Thoughts:  simple top, easy and fast to sew.  I like it a lot.  I made it specifically to wear with these green floral capri leggings I made in May.



For future: Needs 1/2” more at the back hip.


Up Next, a wadder.
Patterns for Pirates – Sos Pants



Never made before. This was my test pair.

My measurements at this time: 31.5 waist, 46 hip



Started sewing: 06/12/19, finished sewing 07/01/19

Size Sewn: XL waist to XXL hip



Alterations/Options: skinny leg option, cut it at the thigh end for the shorts. I added 1.5” elastic to the waist at 31.5” long.

Fabric: Dark Turquoise Ponte Knit.  purchased Aug 2016 from fashionfabricsclub for $3.95/yard.  These used a little more than a yard. 50% Polyester 47% Rayon 3% Lycra



Thoughts: Not enough support in the knit fabric for front pockets at the waist area.  Too tight in the butt, it pulls at the back pockets.  Back pockets are too small.  Generally they don’t look good and I don’t really like them.



For future: I’m not sure I’ll ever make these again, but if I do I will leave off the front pockets, make the back pockets bigger, and add a bit of room to the thighs and crotch curve.