Burda 03/2012 #114 Elastic Waist Shorts Muslin

As you may have noticed, I'm playing catch up with blog posting.

Last May (2018) I was determined to make some nice fitting shorts.  I watched a ton of Craftsy Bluprint classes on fitting, read more books, etc.  I picked a simple pattern to start with, Burda 03/2012 #114 Elastic Waist Shorts.  I even put this pattern in my Spring SWAP for 2018.

I did a tissue fitting before cutting out the muslin fabric.  It helped me make a few changes (listed below).  Nothing is hemmed on these, no waistband in; just a quick sew up in the needed places.

This pattern only goes to a 42 so I graded it out to a size 46.  My pattern notes show I lowered the front rise by 1/4" added 1/2" to the width at Center Front and 1/2" to the front thigh.
In the back I added 1/2" wedge to the center butt, rotating this to take out 1" of the bottom leg width.  This created 3/4" addition to the top waist width so I took it out at the side seams of both the outer and inner.  Whew, that sounds confusing but what it amounts to is a sort of full bust adjustment for my butt.  A full butt adjustment!

I think the fit turned out really great.  There are a few tweaks they need here and there. Also, these shorts are super short for what I'm comfortable with but lengthening the legs would take away from the cute design of them.

So after all that work I put them on hold and moved forward with something else.

I really wanted to make these out of some amazing linen blend fabric I have.  I will make them soon I think. Finding these pictures made me want a pair. I will sew up a pair of these just to wear around the house and yard in summer, because I like the style, and darn it - shorts that fit me are hard to find!

~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~

Ottobre Tunic and Burda Nightgown

Ottobre 05/2013 #1B Autumn Mood Tunic

I’ve made this pattern a few times before as a tee:
Teal Color Block                  Light rayon                   Color Blocked                color blocked zig-zag

And once before as a tunic: Geometric Sweater Knit Tunic



Size: I have been doing a lot of flat pattern measuring lately.  It does not guarantee fit, but does get really close. I took my measurements as front bust, back bust; front waist, back waist, and so on.  Then I measure on each pattern piece.  I went with a size 42 for the whole pattern due to this, and then did my alterations from there.  My current measurements put me in a 42 for shoulders/44 bust, 42 waist/46 hip


Alterations:

• added 1.5” to sleeve width and 5.25” to sleeve length to get a full sleeve instead of 3/4 sleeve
• 1/2” square shoulder
• made neckline less open by adding 1.5” to inside part of shoulder pieces (basically redrafted the neck curve)
• took off 1” from back bust
• added 5” to back hip
• At this point I sewed the tunic except hems and found I still had to bring in the waist 6” total

Instructions: Good.  They are short and too the point, but describe enough that you can sew with no issues.

Fabric: 1.5 yards of Classic Blue, Cotton/Poly/Spandex Knit (55% Cotton, 35% Poly, 10% Spandex). I purchased this for $6 total from FabricMart in December 2015.  This turned out to be a lovely weight knit.  Nice and medium weight, no trace of being sheer.  I hope it washes and wears well.



Thoughts:  I like this tunic quite a bit.  I wore it out today.  I do wish I would not have added the pockets.  I feel they are in a weird high spot on me.  In the future I would probably add side seam pockets instead of these patch pockets.  My hands keep trying to go into the side seam, searching for a pocket! I love the mod vibe the tunic gives though.

Burdastyle 12/2008 #114 ~ Nightgown

Size:    size 42, but I graded out the back hip to a size 46 to accommodate my larger rear. 

Alterations:

• After sewing this up I had to take off a total of 8 inches from bust to waist. 
• The neckline was a bit low before adding binding so I did not take off any seam allowance there, only sewing on the edge of the binding.
• The neckline piece was 5 inches too long. 
• My fabric was so loose and drapey that the pleats do not want to stay; however the pattern calls for loose and drapey fabric. 
• I did not feel like hemming the bottom of the nightgown so I just cut off the 1.5” hem allowance.  The length is perfect. 

Instructions:  These were actually easy to follow.  I had no issues.  They were short and to the point, but this is usual for Burda. 



Fabric: 1.5 yards of Black and white rayon striped knit from Hancocks.  Purchased April 30th, 2015 for $5.80 total.  This fabric was very lightweight and a little slipperier than most rayon jerseys I have sewn with. It is soft though so perfect for sleepwear.

Here is a close up of the pleats at the front neckline

Thoughts:  This pattern is large, you may want to size down.  It works for a nightgown but I probably will not make it again.  I was considering the top version of this pattern but not anymore!  I just do not like how the pleats act in this kind of fabric.