Spring SWAP Dresses ~ New Look 6301 & Ottobre 02/17 #11

New Look 6301 Wrap Dress, View B


Size: Bodice size 12, hip size 14. This is 1 size down in bust and almost 3 sizes down in hip.  I read comments that the dress was large so I sized down and actually did a tissue fitting! 



Alterations: The tissue fitting showed me many areas to fix before cutting into my fabric. 

• I took 1/2” tuck from neckline at the collarbone because of gaping there. 
• I graded the bottom of the sleeve from a 12 to a 14 to accommodate my larger biceps. 
• The sleeve cap had a whooping 2.5” of ease… in a knit!! My pet peeve.  So I dropped the tall, narrow cap down about an inch – this gave me 1.25” in ease and also made it wider on top – this fits me much better at the shoulder than those tall sleeve caps.
• 1/2” swayback
• 1/2” forward shoulder adjustment
• 1/4” out of CB at neckline to 1/2” out at center back, then to 0” at bottom of bodice.  The pattern has an outward curve in the mid back which was completely opposite of what I needed.  This alteration straightened out the back and solved that issue. 
• I cut the ties at the size 20 since many people complained how short they were.
• Skirt pieces 7 & 8 are the exact same so I just cut 2 of #7.
• I cut two of the front R pieces (#1) and didn’t bother with the front L piece.

Instructions: The instructions were ok. They explained what I needed to do and I had no issues with them.  I did sew my dress up a bit different in order – easier in my mind.  Pleated fronts, sewed to back at shoulder.  Added front binding, sewed in ties to back. Then sewed sleeves in flat, and sewed up sides.  I sewed skirts together and then sewed skirt to bodice in the round. It went together fairly quickly.



Fabric: Pattern calls for 2.5 yards fabric for my size.  I somehow made this with only 1.5 yards.  This fabric was from the Fabric Mart precut sale.  I purchased it in Sept 2017 for $3.05 a yard; total $4.58 for this dress.  It is listed as 92% Rayon/8% Lycra blend with 4 way stretch.  The fabric is heavier than most rayon/lycra I own and so so soft.  This fabric cut, sewed, and pressed like a dream.



Thoughts: I really love this dress!  I was hoping it would work out since the fabric is super soft.  I love the color, the drape, the look.  I do find that the dress grows a little during the day and that the heavier fabric doesn’t have as much recovery as I would like.  But, those are minor things.  If I make the dress again (I already have plans for the tank view) then I want to take another whole inch out of the center back at the neckline – it is still a bit wide in back.  I would also shorten the front bindings and make the front cross over tighter – but this may just be the fabric’s problem with the growing/recovery issue. 



I think it’s a fantastic “fake” wrap dress pattern.  I would recommend it to anyone!


Ottobre 02/2017 #11 – Tee Shirt Dress

Size: 42 for bust/waist to 46 at hip. Also made the sleeve 42 at the cap out to 44 at the hem (to gain some width at the bicep).



Alterations:

• 1/2” forward shoulder adjustment

Instructions: This is a simple T-shirt dress.  I sewed it up without looking at the instructions.  I sewed one shoulder, added neck binding, sewed other shoulder.  Then I sewed in the sleeves and added binding to the bottoms of them. After this I just sewed up the side seams and hemmed it.  It was super fast. 



Fabric: 1.75 yards - Bright Turquoise/White 100% Cotton, Plus Sign Design, Interlock Knit – 60W; purchased Sept 2017 for $5.60 total also from Fabric Mart’s precut sale. 



Thoughts: I made this for a nightgown, I love it for that purpose.  A few days in MeMadeMay I just wore the dress all day.  It is soft and comfortable, easy to throw on and go.  The interlock is thicker and less stretchy than most knits but it works well in this dress. I have no complaints!

Here’s an updated look at how my Spring/Summer Sewing Plan is going:

Purple, Purple and a Puppy

Well, the year is almost over and I still have a bunch of makes I haven’t posted yet. Oops.  I will do my best to catch up so I can start my big plans for next year, fresh.

Here are 3 makes for me (1 fail, 2 successes) and a make for the puppy. 

Ottobre 02/2017 #2 “All Day Long” Rayon Jersey Top



Size: 42 at shoulder to waist, graded to a 44 hip in front and 46 hip in back. 

Adjustments: 1/2” forward shoulder adjustment. Raised neckline 1/2” because it looked low



Instructions are to the point, easy enough to follow.  The neck and hem are bound, cuffs at the arms. 



Fabric: 2 yards Midnight Plum Rayon Spandex Jersey Knit. Purchased May 2017 from Fabricmartfabrics.com on sale for $4/yard.  $8 total.  This is a heavier rayon spandex than I’m used to.  It does make the top hang a bit more (pull towards the ground). 



Thoughts:  Fail.  miserable fail.  I do not like the drop shoulder; Honestly I didn’t think the pattern had this at all, big oversight.  It is also super long.  Like Tunic long.  It looks oversized, baggy, and huge on me.   If I pull up the bottom it looks halfway decent but I still don’t like that shoulder.  I will attempt to use it for a nightgown but I am afraid it is destined for the trash or repurpose pile.  Hmm, there is a lot of fabric here, maybe I can get a cowl tank out of it.  I do love the color.




BurdaStyle 11/2007 #122

I had this pattern pegged to make myself some yoga pants, and then Miss K needed some like “right now” back in September for Gym.  She even used the black space fabric I wanted to use.  After I got over my disappointment of making them for her instead of me, I picked out the same fabric in a different color and made my own. 



Size:Waistband 42; Front Piece: 42 waist, 44 hip to hem; Back Piece: 42 waist, graded to 46 at hip to knee and back to 44 the rest of the way to hem. I added 1.5” for the hem like the magazine stated but then only did 1” hem. 



Instructions:  For Burda, these are good instructions.  However, the pattern is also simple to sew up so not too much to mess up.



Fabric: 2 yards Eggplant Space Dye Poly Spandex Performance Tech Knit Fabric;  It is 90% Poly, 10% Spandex. Purchased from StylishFabrics.com in July 2017 for $7.20/yard. $14.40 total for these pants.  This fabric is amazing.  it is soft and slippery.  It feels closer to ITY than athletic wear.  It has great recovery though.  When I wear these pants it feels like silk on my legs.  The fabric is perfect for warmer weather. 



Thoughts:   I love love love these pants.  They are so easy to make, fit really well, and are super comfortable to wear.  I loved them so much that I made a second pair in this thick red yoga knit fabric. 



Fabric: Premium Red Yoga Knit from Knitpop.  Super thick and luscious.  Purchased in June 2017; it was $10.50/yard in a half off sale.  So $21 total for this pair. This fabric is awesome to wear too.  It has great recovery and is super soft and plush. 



And now for the puppy.  Back in September I was preparing Bear (aka bennie, beanie, etc).  for his first shave.  Knowing he would be cold I made him a cute shirt.  I even embroidered his name on the back.  His full name is Bear E.B. Benson. 

Pattern: Sophi and Friends (on etsy) Dog Tee Shirt Pattern 1764



Size: Tiny little 8lb Bear measured in the Large/XL size.  I measured twice to be sure.  I made him the size Large.


Fabric:  A small bit of Turquoise Cotton Lycra from the scrap pile. 



Instructions:  The instructions are good.  I had no problems putting this together.



Thoughts: Pretty good fit though I will probably size down next time.  It is really baggy near his belly and well…. he’s a boy so it needs to be shorter and tighter across his belly. 



He was thoroughly confused by the shirt and the pictures.  It’s so hard to live a dog’s life.



Happy Sewing!

Ottobre Hide Away Hoodie and Ottobre Stream Leggings

I’ve had both these pieces finished for quite some time now; but getting pictures taken has proven difficult. When Ottobre 02/2017 came out I was so excited.  I love almost everything in the whole magazine!  I can’t wait to sew them all up. 

Ottobre Hide Away Hoodie

Immediately I was drawn to this pattern.  The pockets are awesome and it looked like a great fall/winter piece.

Size and Alterations: 42 everywhere grading to a 46 at the hip. It was a little tricky adding seam allowance to the pocket linings but I figured it out.  1/2” forward shoulder adjustment. At first I made it with the hem band but I didn’t really like it plus it was too long on me.  So my mom suggested removing the hem band and just hemming it.  Well I love it now!



Instructions and Pattern: I’m used to Ottobre instructions by now.  They are sparse, but too the point.  The hardest part is that there are no pictures to follow.  I have to take each line as it is.  The instructions and pattern is great.



Fabric: Pink & Blue Floral Grey French Terry from Knitpop. 2 yards purchased in Feb 2016  $17.00.  Grey Stripes French Terry POLY 62%, RAY 33%, SPAN 5%, 1 yard also purchased from Knitpop at the same time. $8.50.  Total: $25.50



Thoughts: Love, Love, Love.  I wasn’t sure if it was too baggy or if I should bring it in on the sides a bit but after looking at the pictures I will just leave it like it is.  I can’t wait to wear it.



Ottobre Stream Leggings



Size and Alterations: Back Pieces: 44 at waist, 48 at hip down. dropped back crotch curve 1/2”.  Front Piece: 44 at waist, 46 hip down.  Waistband 44.



Instructions and Pattern: Simple leggings with an awesome waistband.  No issues with the pattern or instructions.

Fabric: 2 yards Black fabric.  I wish I could tell you what this stuff is. I got it from Hancock’s going out of business sale.  Active Knit High Performance is what the receipt says.  $0.85/yd. so… $1.70 for these leggings.



Thoughts: These are the very best fitting leggings I’ve made and/or owned.  I love the waistband especially; it keeps everything in place. I think that they are a little baggy behind the knees and from the knees down to the ankles.  However, this is an easy fix for next time. 

Next time:  Need to taper legs from knee down, need to add 1” to length.  Waistband needs: 1/2” taken off top of back middle, tapering to 0 (for swayback). and lower 1” in front only at top of waistband.

Here is with it pulled back, if I decided to take in the side seams.  It looks ok, but I think this design is meant to be a bit baggy.



And the before shot, with the hem band.  I didn’t really care for it this way.  I’m glad I chopped it off


Here is a sneak peek of some things I’m working on:

Sewing for the Boy ~ Simplicity, Burda, Ottobre, Jalie

I don’t sew much for Mr. T anymore.  He’s a 15 year old boy so he is pretty picky on things.  He specifically wants things that are plain.  No graphics, no color changes, no fun… 
He wears hoodies every day to school.  So I thought I would make him a few.
 
First up: Burda 6718



Size: 36 which fits his measurements exactly.  However, it ended up short.  like 2-3 inches short.  Sadness.

It doesn’t look too short here, but it really is with jeans on. He wears it and likes it but I cringe every time!  I'll have to remake it only longer.



Fabric: Midnight Green Cotton Slub Jersey Knit.  I purchased it from Fabric Mart.  It said 4 way stretch but it barely stretches 2 way.  anyway. 2 yards $4/yard so $8 total for the hoodie. 

2nd hoodie: Jalie 3355
I never knew this pattern was unisex.  There are only girls on the front cover.  Then one day I read in a facebook post and looked on the website and sure enough, unisex!!  How perfect because I love this pattern for me and Miss K. 



Size: straight size U.  This is a couple sizes above his measurements.  I know he likes a men’s medium and I wear a men’s medium; I use size U for this hoodie so that’s what I used.  I’ve been using shoestrings for the hoodie string.  It works out great.



Fabric: 2 yards Dark Pewter Rayon French Terry Knit from Fabric Mart.  Purchased in May 2017 for $6/yard.  total for this hoodie $12.  This fabric is so so soft. but heavy because of the rayon. Mr. T LOVES this hoodie.  He wears it every chance he gets. 

Thoughts: I feel like the hem band is way too tight.  I remember I added inches to it for myself and K but forgot for T’s.  I need to add 1-2 inches next time to the width of the hem band. 

Pajamas. This is where I can have a little more creativity with Mr. T.
 
Ottobre 06/2011 # 37 Pajama shorts
I’ve made Mr. T these pajamas countless times.  He loves them but keeps outgrowing them!



This time I made size 170.  This is the highest size Ottobre offers so when T outgrows these he won’t be getting more! 

Fabric: 1.5 yards of this fun pinstripe suiting.  I got it in a scrap box from Fabric Mart June 2015.  It was only $0.83 for the whole bit.  The selvage said “Lana, Storia, 180’s Qualita Moderno” Quite honestly I didn’t know what I would use it for and them BAM!  it became perfect for this project. 



I recently got an embroidery machine and digitized this Overwatch design for Mr. T onto them.  This symbol is for one of his favorite characters in Overwatch.  Sombra I think?  He loves these, I love these.  they wash well and wear well.  Next time I’ll remember to widen the waistband and use 1.5” elastic instead of 3/4”

Simplicity 1021 Pajama Shorts
I thought it would be fun to try this pattern.  It has pockets, it looks cool. 


Size: Small.  I took 1” off the rise because it looked crazy high.  They turned out cute, but short.  Like boxers.  What sucks is that the pattern doesn't list yardage for just the bottoms.  They list it for the total top and bottoms.

Mr. T likes them.  I added a Lobster design and T’s monogram to the leg.  Mr. T really likes these.  I think I’ll make the pants version for him.



Fabric: 2 yards (though I didn't use all of it) Navy Lobster in Cotton Lawn.  I got this back in Feb 2015 from Hancocks on sale for $2.64/yard.  so total for these $5.28


Happy Sewing!

Hits and Misses for Miss K

 Sewing for tweens is hard.  Here is a little catch up on what has been sewn for Miss K lately.

Vintage Kwik Sew 1077 vs. Purl Soho City Gym Shorts



Kwik Sew size 14 - in stretch denim with self made cotton bias tape (both fabrics from the scrap bin).
Kwik Sew was way to small to even be comfortable on K; she could barely get them up over her hips/butt.  I did scoop out the rear but it did not help.  This is sad because they turned out so stinking cute!



City Gym Shorts (CGS) in women’s size 35-37 in cotton woven with self made cotton voile bias tape (both fabrics from scrap bin).

CGS were too small too, but only a smidge in the rear.  I did not scoop out the rear on these but may try again in the future. I going to be honest here - I didn’t follow the directions for these because they are just weird.  You can tell the author is a quilter and not a clothing sewist. Luckily, they are simple to make and no directions are needed.

Fabric is from this dress K never wore. 100% cotton woven, it was simply called Vines Multi when I purchased it for $2.79 for the 1/2 yard. 

Jalie 3024 mash up with SUAT Aurora
I used the top from Jalie and the skirt from Aurora.  Size Q for Jalie and 14 for Aurora.



I really like this dress.  It's cute.  Miss K picked these fabrics but still hasn’t tried it on.  I hope she will like it once she finally does put it on.   Miss K refused to wear it so I chopped the top off and used the skirt to make her an Aurora.

Fabric: 1/2 yard of Coral Cotton Lycra – this stuff is nice and heavy at 11 oz a yard.  Purchased in March 2016 $1.98 from fashionfabricsclub and 2 yards of Mint Green/Gray Stripe Jersey Knit (poly, rayon, lycra) also purchased in March 2016 for $5.93.  Dress total: $7.91  

Jalie 2444 Sport Tank in size Q for shoulders/bust and S for waist/hip. I added 1/4” to each side at the bust and lowered the neck by 1” because the reviews on Patternreview said the neck was too high.



Miss K wears this tank but it is way too tight on her.  Lowering the neckline was also a bad idea – don’t listen to the reviews.  It looks so much better with the higher neckline. I will remake this for her in a larger size because it is such a cute tank. 

Fabric: Turquoise cotton lycra 1/2 yard purchased in April 2016 for $4.80.  Small bit of Shattered Showers poly/lycra that I’m hoarding from March 2015, it is from a custom fabric group "Cuddle Muffins".

Vintage Kwik Sew 1077 – tank
Size 14; this turned out super, super huge on Miss K.  Which is ironic because the shorts at the very top of this post are with the same pattern and way too small.  I ended up cutting this up to make her underwear. I totally forgot to snap a picture of it until I was cutting it up. Oops.



Ottobre 01/2011 #29 Yoga pants
Size 152 with 1/2” shortened.  You’ve seen me make her this pattern a million times. 



These are sewn with super soft French Terry.  They are nice and lightweight.  She loves them. Fabric: 1 yard of Black Two Tone French Terry Fabric (poly, rayon, spandex mix) purchased in Nov 2015 for $7.40 from Stylish Fabrics.


And here are a bunch of SUAT Scrundies that I made for Miss K from scraps and clothes she won’t wear.  I went with the “Adventure Time” theme.  Now she has 7 days of Adventure time to wear.  All characters were done with my Silhouette and Heat transfer Vinyl.  Miss K will only wear these underwear now, claiming them to be the most comfortable ever. I used size XS for her.  


As you can see, the only thing that survived from this tween sewing stint was the undies and the yoga pants.  The rest were either too tight, too big, or not wanted.

Happy Sewing!
Kristin