Helen’s Closet ~ Blackwood Cardi and Jalie Alex Pullover

Helen’s Closet – Blackwood Cardigan

Date sewn: Sept 2019

Size sewn: L bust, XL waist, XXL hip

My measurements at the time: 39 bust, 32 waist, 47.5 hip

Alterations: 1/2” forward shoulder adjustment

Fabric: Utterly fantastic textured knit.  It is soft and smooth on the inside and textured on the outside.  It was amazing to sew too.  Telio Paola Pique Liverpool Knit Hermes Red Fabric; purchased from fabric.com/amazon Aug 2019 for $6.58/yard.  It is listed as 96% poly, 4% spandex and medium weight.  I used 2 yards.  This cardigan cost $13.16.

Thoughts: I had been wanting to make this cardigan forever.  With everyone I see wear it, it looks fantastic.  It fits my hips good; I’m glad I graded out to an XXL there.  I’m not sure how I completely feel about it though.  I love the fabric and it’s texture. I don’t love that the sleeves are sooooooo tight. To all my fellow broad biceped people, you will need more width in the sleeves.  This cardigan is tight all through the sleeves, too.  And I usually never have issues with my forearms and wrists. I wish I had measured the bicep width before sewing.  I made this cardigan to go with a dress that I have not made yet.  So I will save my final thoughts for once I pair it with its intended.

Jalie - Alex 3907

Date sewn:  10/27/19

Previous makes: llama fleece for Miss K in May 2019

Size sewn:  X for all, grading to CC at hips

My measurements at the time:  39 bust, 32 waist, 47.5 hip

Alterations: adjusted the pockets for the grading at the hips, 1/2” square shoulder adjustment

Fabric: Navy/Gray Soft Shell Grid Fleece, purchased from fashionfabricsclub Feb 2018 for $6.48/yard,  I used 2.5 yards so $16.20.  “This durable double layered performance soft shell fabric is created by combining a mechanical stretch micro knit fabric with a grid brick patterned fleece back. The knit face has a water resistant coating which allows water to bead off the fabric surface”  I really had high hopes for this fabric.  I want to like it, but I’m just not sure that I do.

Thoughts: It’s just ok.  This is one that I loved more in my head than I do in real life.  I’ve also lost 15 lbs since I made it so it is a bit large on me now.  The doubled fabric feels heavy and weird.  I’m sure the problem is the fabric.  The llama one I made Miss K in fleece I love. I don’t know, I feel frumpy in this one and that doesn’t make me want to wear it.  The double fabric makes the sleeves have huge folds, or the sleeve pattern itself does that – I’m not sure.  It almost feels like my sleeves are twisting to the front.  I also feel like there is 1” too much in center front @ the hipline.  Like the front needs less width and it should distribute to the back.

I have to point out one of my biggest pet peeves here;  I hate hate hate when there are sleeves cut on the fold.  You always have 2 sleeves, you always need 2 sleeves.  It annoys me to no end that I have sleeves cut on the fold.  Having sleeve pattern flat allows me to cut 2 easily and not fiddle with the fabric and wonder if my pattern pieces are all going to fit. *rant over*  Anyway, I am not sure if this will get much wear.  I’ll put it in the closet for a few months and see. I'm sure I will make another in fleece at some point.

Apostrophe and SALS Leggings plus another Chloe Maxi Skirt

I have an obsession with the Sew A Little Seam – Movie Night Pajama Leggings.  They are the most comfortable leggings I’ve ever made and I just can’t seem to stop making them! Here are the others I have sewn: blue floral and also olive floral

This time I made some using a red wine floral double brushed poly knit that was in a remnant/scrap bag. This one came from FabricMart.

Date Sewn: 09/16/19

My Measurements at that time: Waist 32, Hip 47.5

Size Sewn: Waist 16/18 and hip 20

Alterations: I used 32.5” of 1.5”wide elastic in the waistband. I like my bands to stay up and not droop.

I added 1” to the back rise, scooped 1/2” out of the back butt curve, and scooped 1/4” out of the front crotch curve.

Thoughts: I freaking love these. I have 2 other pairs in double brushed poly too and I just live in them.  They are super comfortable and like second skin. I’m sure I will continue to make more. If making the cropped version it is a great use of 1 yard of fabric. The only negative is that AFTER I sewed them all up I realized that there is a marker mark on the back leg. It is rather large and I think it’s 2 letters?  Maybe this is why it was in the remnant/scrap bag; but BOOOOOOO.  How terrible to not notice.

I also sewed another pair in cotton lycra. My plan was to make Christmas pajamas for the family out of this awesome snoopy knit.  But then I got super, super sick so the only thing I made was my leggings.

Date sewn: 11/21/19

My measurements at the time: Waist 32.5, hip 47.5

Size sewn: 16/18 waist and 20  hip

Alterations: I added 1” to the back rise, scooped 1/2” out of the back butt curve, and scooped the front crotch 1/2”.  Then I added 1/4” to the inseams at the crotch to thigh

Fabric: 1.25 yards of "Peanuts Christmas Knit Fabric-Blue” 95% cotton 5% spandex.  Purchased from JoAnn’s in Jan 2019 for $1.70 a yard!!! I bought 8 yards LOL.

Thoughts: These are great too, although cotton lycra is a little tighter than the double brushed poly I’m used to with these.  They are a bit snug and so when the fabric stretches you can see the white underneath the print.  I love them though.

In August I decided to jump on the bandwagon and try the new Apostrophe “My fit” leggings.  It is a great concept, although not new.  Lekalya Patterns and Bootstrap Fashion have done this for years.  You enter in your exact measurements and it spits out a custom pattern to your size and fit – well it is supposed to anyway.  The problem here is that adjustments are still needed so it’s not truly a custom fit right out of the gate. So warning, Apostrophe = catastrophe

Anyway, back to the leggings at hand:

Date sewn: 08/09/19

Size sewn: my custom fit (and I mean this loosely)

Alterations: the crotch curve on these was sooooo bad I about threw in the towel.  I was pissed at this point that I spent $12 on a pair of freaking leggings when I have amazing ones already I make with a free pattern.  I trudged on.  The front and back crotch curves needed 1/2” scooping.  The front crotch curve was too short so I added 3/4”; the waist was too loose. Also, since the front inseam is still too short my butt is eating the fabric as you can see in the pics.

Fabric: I was a fool and used this amazing luscious black yoga knit. It is brushed, and thick but not too thick and amazing.  I am pretty sure I grabbed it from knit pop but I really don’t remember.

Thoughts: as you can tell I was not pleased.  These fit terrible and I stand by my original statement that no one should purchases a leggings pattern for $12 when there are so many free ones out there that FIT better.  Am I bitter? yes, yes I am still bitter about it.

Here is a mashup of the 3 leggings from this post

In less exciting news I made myself ANOTHER Made for Mermaids – Mama Chloe Maxi Skirt You just cannot go wrong with a plain maxi skirt in your wardrobe.  Here are my other sews of this: in June 2019 a gray heather knit; and in Aug 2019 a turquoise heathered jersey

Date sewn: 09/15/19

My measurements at the time: Waist 32, hip 47.5

Size sewn: yellow

Alterations: added 2" to the height. Used green waist to yellow hip with my hip curve ruler #1-8 on it.  But then used the yellow waist at 6"x18" on the fold. I used 33.5" long waistband elastic in 1.5" wide

Fabric: 2.5 yards of some navy rayon something. It is soft like rayon but not too loose and drapey like rayon spandex so I’m not too sure.

Thoughts: Well, this is my 3rd make of this skirt and I love them all.  In the summer I enjoy just throwing one of these on and going about my day.

2 Tops; Deer & Doe - Plantain and Jalie - Marie Claude

First up, Deer & Doe – Plantain

I’ve made this top in the (way) past and I looooved it. It sadly no longer fits and I am sure I chopped it up years ago for undies or something. I wanted to make another, similar to the first. Here is the first one I made in 2014 blue with patches. I guess I also made it once in 2017 in gray rayon and in 2014 in a blue stripe.

So in September I made a burgundy/cranberry one with patches, hoping to love it as much as my first blue one.

Date Sewn: 09/16/19

My measurements at the time: 39 bust/ 32 waist/ 47 hip

Size Sewn: 44 bust/ 46 waist/ 48 hip

Adjustments: took 1/4” off the front side curve, starting 2” above waist, to 0 off at 2” above hip – I should have made a size 44 bust AND waist then 48 hip

I also did a 1/2” square shoulder adjustment and a 1/2” bicep adjustment. I added a pocket from my Ottobre 05/2013 #1A pattern to the chest on this.

Fabric: Burgundy Cotton Lycra from Purpleseamstress purchased Aug 2019, 2 yards for $13.00  with Charcoal gray Cotton Lycra also from Purpleseamstress purchased at the same time. I used maybe 1/4” yard?

Thoughts: The neckband needs to be 1/2” longer.  I don’t know, I’m just not feeling it.  It is a bit baggy in the back and front below the chest.  The bust is tight; the neckline feels lower than what I’m used to. It’s not that I dislike it; I just that I don’t like/like it. I will hold on to it for a while because maybe it will grow on me.  I’m at this point in my life that I just want things to feel good, look good, and wear well.  I don’t have time to clutter my closet with things I don’t “love”. (I've read too many minimalist books lately!).

Let’s move on to the Jalie - Marie Claude 3667

I have also made this in the past twice and loooooooved it. I wear my black semi sheer one from Apr 2018 a ton. The one I made in Dec 2017 in I loved the fit but the fabric was just not right for me. Oh! I also made a hooded one for Miss K in Dec 2017 too.

Date Sewn: 09/15/19

My measurements at the time: 39 bust/ 32 waist/ 47.5 hip

Size Sewn: X for all except CC for hip

Adjustments: just the blending from X at waist to CC at hip

Fabric: 2 yards Dark Navy Rayon Spandex.  I don't know where I got it or how much it was.

Thoughts: This top is also a “meh.”  I have a love/hate relationship with rayon spandex.  I love it for skirts and some tops but hate it for most tops.  I knew in my head I should have used different fabric but I already had it cut out so I trudged on.  The fit is ok, a little looser due to the drape of the fabric.  I much prefer the structure of this top in the French terry I made before; I should have used that again.  I’m also losing weight so that could make up for the bagginess.  It’s not a love; I probably won’t keep it.  I will make another in a sturdier fabric.  (Also, really hard to get good light in winter in Wisconsin!).

Spoxxy Tank and Nightgown - SUAT

UDPATED TANK:

Way, way, way back in April 2016 I made a spoxxy tank to test the fit.  Pattern is by Stitch Upon a Time (SUAT). I hated it and stuffed it in the UFO/revisit pile.  In July (2019) I pulled it out and decided to make some changes.  One of the reasons I hated it was the bottom band.

ORIGINAL TANK:

Bottom bands are tricky for me with my pear shape.  Sometimes I can pull them off and sometimes they look terrible.  In this case it made the top poof up and I hated it. So, three years after it was banned to the UFO/revisit pile I pulled it out, chopped off the bottom band, hemmed it, and finished the arm/neck cover stitching.

Those tiny changes made a big difference and I loved the top!  The color is way wild for me; not something I would normally wear, not my colors, but with a black cardigan I like the look. It is something different and I need more variety in my closet.  (Cardigan is a Jalie Drop pocket cardi 3248 I made in Mar 2017; pants are Jalie Yoga pants 3022 I made in July 2019) Since I started this top in 2016 I don’t have many details now.  I know I made a size L bust to XL hip.  I know the fabric because I had also used this for a Jalie Dolman top for Miss K in 2015.  The fabric is “Paintstrokes” ITY which I picked it up from FabricMart in July 2015 which cost $4.50 for the fat half I used for the front of this. The back is also an ITY in black which I picked up from Hancock's in Sept 2015.  I used a fat half yard for that so we shall say, $1.60. Total for the shirt: $6.10 Because of my success with the tank I decided to make the updated Spoxxy pattern which includes a dress length.  I wanted a nightgown to wear.  As I mentioned in my previous post, my thyroid has been wonky since about April last year and I’ve been having these out of the blue sweating incidents mostly at night.  Not fun, not cool, and gross feeling!  I needed more tank nightgowns in my wardrobe.

Date sewn: 11/02/19

My measurements at the time: Bust 39, Waist 32, Hip 47.5

Size sewn: L bust to 2X hip as I wanted it nice and flowy.

Alterations: none!

Fabric: 2 yards of a paisley blue/white floral ITY knit. I got it in a scrap box in June 2017 but I don’t know from where.  I get scrap boxes from FabricMart and Knit pop so one of those.  I used Royal blue cotton lycra scraps for the bands and back racer spot.

Thoughts: I love it! I really, really love it! It’s easy to throw on.  I like ITY fabric because it’s cool feeling on my skin.  It is a loose style so it can be worn with my weight changes. I wear it every time it is clean.  I need to make a few more.

This year I’m going to try to sew through my stash and reduce it a bit.  I have been feeling overwhelmed by the amount of fabric I have; it has been stifling my creativity, too. Having a stash is great when you need fabric for a project, but having too much stash can be smothering. I have cut down on the amount of fabric I buy DRASTICALLY.  It has been hard, but I hope to reduce by 1/3rd this year.

New Horizons Summit Hoodie x2

Hello, Hello.  Things have been rough here since July so blogging has taken a backseat.  My health went more south again.  I gained 25lbs June-Aug and got my thyroid checked; yes it’s wonky but doc wants to wait to see if it stays wonky.

Then in Oct I had a surgery, and an infection, and then took antibiotics I KNEW would mess up my stomach. So it was no surprise that the week of Thanksgiving I was struck with horrid gastritis again from the medicine damage they say.

I am still dealing with that and struggling to even eat oatmeal and hold down water. So I’ve lost 15 of the 25lbs.  So I am here and I am sewing when I can, which is not as often as I would like.

I finally took a bunch of pics of some of my backlogged makes yesterday so I have a few posts to share.

New Horizons Summit Hoodie 1st make: 08/18/19 My measurements at the time: bust 39, waist 32, hip 46.5

Size Sewn: 12 bust/waist to an 18 hip

Fabric: 2 yards Navy Blue Sweatshirt Fleece, 80% cotton, 20% poly.  Purchased Feb 2015 from fashionfabricsclub for $11 total. The owl is french terry that I cut up from this unloved P4P hoodie I made in Nov 2016. The owl is from Wanderlust Designs Custom Fabric on Facebook.  I purchased the owl 1 yard in May 2016 on sale for $16.50. I also added Thermoflex vinyl to the hoodie with my Silhouette Cameo

Sewing: so the pocket construction on this is flat out weird.  I have sew a few styles like this in the past and this construction is by far the strangest of the bunch – and not in a good way. Also, because of the way the panels are drafted the armscye is no longer curved and doesn’t match the sleeve.

Fit: The sleeves are WAY tight. Squeezing tight.  The back is also tight across the shoulders – a problem I seldom have with patterns.

Thoughts:  I love the look of this top but the drafting leaves some to be desired.  I would pass on this pattern and look towards the very similar Sinclair Skylar instead.

However, looking past all that I love love love the look of this first one. I’m super sad it is too tight. I will just have to wait until my weight decreases enough that it fits. My fabric is a nice sturdy sweatshirt fleece and not as stretchy.

2nd make: 09/14/19

My measurements at the time: bust 39, waist 32, hip 47.5

Size sewn: 14 bust/waist to 20 hip

Fabric: 2 yards Royal French Terry from stylish fabrics. Purchased in Apr 2017 for $7.40/yard; it is soft and stretchy and must have some rayon in it; it is also thin for FT.  The Dreamcatcher French Terry is from Wanderlust Designs Custom Fabric on Facebook and I purchased it in May 2016 for $16.50 for a yard.  The side panels only use a bit of fabric.  I added Thermoflex vinyl to this hoodie too with my Silhouette Cameo.

Same sewing thoughts as above.

Fit: this one fits quite different than the first because of the fabric.  This one is stretchier and more drapey.  I really don’t care for how it feels.  The pocket is baggier because of the double layer of fabric and the nature of rayon.

Thoughts: I don’t think I’ll wear this one much.  I made it in Sept and only wore it once since then; when I wore it I felt uncomfortable in it.