Showing posts with label #121. Show all posts
Showing posts with label #121. Show all posts

Friday, October 30, 2015

Burda 12/2009 #121 Henley–Fall Sewing


I’m doing a terrible job this year in the Burda Sewing challenge.  Don’t get me wrong, I love tons of Burda patterns, and I have a ton of magazines; it is just that I seem to reach for other things first and Burda gets put on the back burner.  However, I put this Henley on my Fall Sewing List and am happy I was able to push myself to sew it up. 

henley line drawing

The problem I have with Burda patterns is that the shoulder area does not fit my body right.  They have super high sleeve caps and this never looks right on me.  When I traced this Henley, it was no different.  I knew I should have altered the sleeve cap right then and there but I was too excited lazy and wanted to get to sewing it up. However, After I attached the sleeves and tried the top on before hemming, I knew I would have to unpick all my serging and lower that sleeve cap.  I ended up bringing it down about an inch.  I used Joy’s method (21wale) and it worked great.

Here we have the “before” pic with the terrible sleeve cap and looseness allover
henley bad combine

 I sewed a size 42 in Shoulder/Bust/Waist to a 44 at the hip.  I added a 1/2” square shoulder adjustment like I always do as well as a 1/2” sway back adjustment. 

henley6

My fabric is a super drapey, soft rayon jersey.  When I first tried it on, it was big all over, like super big.  I ended up taking in 1/2” at each side seam for a total of 2” from bust to hip.  It is comfortably loose now, not overly loose.  I had to shorten the shirt 1.5 inches on the bottom and sleeve hems – they were so long!

henley1

I used the placket instructions from Jalie 2562.  I was super careful to line up those stripes! I made the inside placket all gray.  I also used 5 “smoke” colored snaps from SnapSource.  I like how they go well with both the navy stripe and the gray stripe.  My shoulders have stay tape to prevent stretching (because I despise how clear elastic feels, it is itchy!). 

henley2

Fabric: 2 yards of Navy Gray Stripe Rayon Jersey Knit.  I picked it up May of 2015 from FabricMart for $4.80 total.  Open-mouthed smile  The snaps cost $1.65 for the 5.  Total for the shirt: $6.45!  I have about a Fat Half of this fabric left and it is so soft and luscious.  I may be able to make Miss K something from it.

henley3

Another Fall Sewing item checked off the list

henley4

Now on to the next!

henley5

Brrr.  It's pretty chilly and windy out today.  Sadly my pictures will have to move indoors again.

EDIT: May 21. 2019.  Ok, so I love love love this top but in the 4 years since I've made it I rarely wear it.  Why? Well because the sleeves are huge at the wrist and it bothers me.  Every time I move my arm my sleeve slides up to my elbow and that is frustrating. I've had this beloved top in the "to fix" pile for probably 3 years.  Well today I finally fixed it.  I ripped out that cover-stitching at the sleeve hem and took of TWO full inches (one on each side) tapering to nothing at the elbow.  Then I repressed and rehemmed.  Now I hope to wear it often.