Lots of Pajama Pants - Jalie, Burda, 5oo4, etc.

As I mentioned before, I am trying to catch up on blogging some past makes that never made it to the blog.  My goal is to blog every make so I have details of what fabric I used, what alterations I tried, how they fit, how they sewed up, and so on.  Also I love looking back at past makes, it';s like a time capsule for me.  Unfortunately prior to 2019 I didn’t keep detailed notes on my makes.  I have to resort to what snippets I can find on my spreadsheets and what info I can gather from my pattern traces.  I used to write a lot on those thankfully.  I have always been a pattern tracer.  I use a lot of Burda and Ottobre so it made sense to me.  I trace EVERY pattern because I make lots of alterations and I change sizes a lot and sometimes Miss K wants the same pattern.  It doesn’t matter if its McCalls, Simplicity, Kwik sew, Jalie, Ottobre, Burda, or any Indie pattern online.  I print pdfs withmy copy shop printer so I trace then too. A couple years ago I made a great blog post on Pattern Tracing paper; what works best in terms of use, price, and accessibility.  I am STILL using the same pattern tracing paper and love it.  It works amazing for me and its cheap.  If you are interested in that post it is on my old blog here and the info is all 100% still relevant.

And now back to the pajama pants.  Some of these are far back as 2016 and I just had life get in the way and didn’t make time to post them.  I love some of them and STILL wear them to this day.  They deserve a spot on the blog for sure. So here are a handful of some older and more recent pajama pants makes. (most pictures are from way back when the pajamas were made).

Let’s start backwards and move forward.

Jalie 2686 Classic Pajama Pants previous makes: sheep pair and candy pair for Miss K in 2016

Sewn: Feb 24th, 2016

Fabric used: 2.5 yards Pink Beige Floral Flannel 44W, purchased Feb 2016 for $4.95/yard from fashionfabricsclub.  Total: $12.38 for the pants

I wear these ALL THE TIME.  I love them.  They have popped up in my Me Made May feed a few times.  They are so comfortable and just a classic pajama pant.

From my pattern paper, I used a size Y for the front piece and for the back piece I used Y for the waist and graded to a size AA for the hip downward.  I remember experimenting with this back in 2016 because my backside was larger than my frontside and pants seemed to fit better with the smaller front piece and larger back piece.  I don’t do this method much anymore – I find I just alter things similarly, lol. I also scooped the butt curve 1/2”.

Thoughts: Well, I made these 6 years ago and I still wear them often so I would say they are a hit.  I would make another pair in a heartbeat.

Miss K Fleece Pj Pants

Sewn: July 24, 2016

Fabric used: 2 yards Blizzard Fleece Fabric- Blue And Gray Argyle, purchased Oct 2014 from Joanns for $4/yard. so $8 total for pj pants.

Miss K cut and sewed these fleece pants up herself.  She was so proud at the time.  She wore them often.  The problem is they are a complete mystery as to what pattern she used.  It could have been Kwik sew 3604, or Simplicity 2046, or even Jalie 2686. I honestly have no idea.  She did a great job and needed no help.  Even though I have no information on them I wanted them on the blog because she made them all her own.

Jalie 3243 – green flamingos previous makes: Sept 2013 blue linen pants for me, 4 pairs for Miss K in 2013, pink flannel in 2014 for Miss K, more pink flannel trees in 2014 for Miss K, and pink plaid in 2015 for Miss K.  I’ve used this pattern quite a few times I guess!

Every now and then I get fiercely determined to get my pants fitting exactly right.  These two pair of shorts are a product of that.  I was testing crotch curve fitting on all three of these.

Dec 11, 2018 – flannel green flamingos.  they needed more butt and thigh room in the end. I still have these, but they sit in a “too small” bin. they are an inch high waist in front and low in back. but the pockets are so nice on these!  Some day I will conquer this pattern. From my paper pattern I used a size V for the waist and Z for the hip downwards.  I lowered the front waist 3/4” at CF, I added 1/2” to the front crotch curve at inner thigh, the back piece I used a size V at waist to BB from hips downward.  I scooped the butt curve 1/2” and added 2” to the hem length.

Fabric: Flannel Flamingo Kisses Aqua, 44W, purchased from Fabric.com in May 2016 for $4.89/yard.  used 1.5 yards so $7.34 total for shorts.

  Jalie 3243 brown stripe

Dec 18, 2018 – Brown stripe. So I went back to the drawing board on these and did a ton of alterations and it really didn’t seem to help at all.  These shorts turned out fitting worse than the flamingos and I just scrapped them. I also put the back pockets in too high. this was 70cent fabric so no real waste -thanks Hancock's, I miss you. From my pattern paper I used a size Z for the waist and BB from hip down.  I did a lot of weird alterations on this pair. I moved teh front waist in 1/2” from Z, added 1/2” to the front crotch curve tapering to 1/8” added at inner thigh and another 1/8” to the outer thigh at hem.  I added 2” to the hem length. 28.5” in waist elastic @1” wide. For the back piece I used a straight size BB and then took in 3/4” on both sides of waist. I added 1/4” to the outer hip tapering again to 1/8” added at inner thigh and another 1/8” to the outer thigh at hem. I also scooped the butt curve 1/2”. All these weird additions and subtractions didn’t make the shorts fit any better at all.  Sometimes simple is better than complicated.

Fabric: Brown Pinstripe Suiting, purchased May 2018 from fashionfabricsclub.  It has slight stretch to it.  90% cotton, 10% polyester.  I got it for only $2/yard and used maybe a yard –1.5 yards.

Jalie 3243 pink floral

April 7, 2019 – I came BACK to try again with this pattern and was into testing crotch curves at this point.  these are slightly better than both pairs above but I still don’t wear them as they just don’t feel right - I'll admit, they do look and fit much better than the other 2 pairs above. From my paper pattern I used a size V for the waist grading to a BB for the hips.  I used 28.5” in of elastic in the waist @ 1” wide. And I used a very modified crotch from my “crotch bowl” fitting.  I learned a few things by fitting a crotch bowl.  It was helpful, but I don’t think it is as useful as I wanted it to be.  It did point out to me that I have a low hanging butt so a scoop is always needed.

Fabric: 1.25 yards Pink Beige Floral Flannel 44W, purchased Feb 2016 for $4.95/yard from fashionfabricsclub.  Total: $6.19 for the shorts

Thoughts: I am bound and determined to get this darn pattern to fit me right.  I love the pockets and the look of the pattern.  I will revisit it again someday.   I feel I have come a long way from 2018 and even 2019 fitting pants.  So I am looking forward to trying new things to make these fit well.

Burda 11/2007 #122 previous makes: Sept 2017 black stripe for Miss K, Dec 2017 Red yoga for me, Dec 2017 purple stripe for me, Dec 2019 red xmas pjs for Miss K, and Aug 2020 my favorite pair of gray french terry pants for me.

Sewn April 1st, 2020

Fabric: Double Brushed Jersey Knit Fruit Widely Fruity Mint Fabric, 2 yards, purchased Feb 2020 from fabric.com for $3.12/yard so only $6.24 total for these lovely pj pants.

These were for Miss K and she loved them.  this is probably her favorite pajama pant pattern.  I have made her and I countless pairs over the years.  I sewed up a size 42 for her, scooped the butt curve 1/4”, took 1/2” off the waist on both sides, tapered the legs in 1” on each side as she prefers straight leg.  Then I took the waistband and divided  it in half, she doessn’t like a yoga band.  I put in elastic for her (29 in for future reference).  I scooped the front crotch 1/4”.  I also noted I took 1” out from crotch to knee – why? I am not entirely sure now.

Another Burda 11/2007 #122

Sewn: January 19, 2022

Fabric: Turquoise/White Tie-Dye Print Rayon/Lycra Jersey, purchased May 2017 for $4/yard from fabricmart fabrics.  Its a very soft rayon jersey knit. I used probably 1.5 yards so $6 total for these pjs.

I made yet another pair of these for Miss K – I warned you they were her favorite pattern.  This pair I used the same alterations because I had the pattern all ready to go.  This was sewn after my craniotomy and I was struggling but wanted to make her something.  She’s been begging for more pj pants for a long time. I got through them and she is happy so win-win.

Thoughts:  It’s clear both K and I love this pattern.  I will continue making it for a long time.  Expect to see many more pairs.

5 out of 4 Pajama Pants previous makes: A pair for all 4 of us

sewn: January 1, 2021

Fabric: super soft and plush yellow polka dot flannel.  This fabric is so nice. “Pineapple/White 100% Cotton Small Polka Dot Flannel - Robert Kaufman – 42W” purchased Sept 2017 for $2.92/yard in the FabricMart Precut Sale (please please have another one of those!!). 2.88 yards used so $8.40 total.

I used a size L with a M for the waist in Low rise.  I was sewing up a purple pair just days before in an XL and they were comically huge on me so I had to scrap them and start new.

my measurements at that time were: 33 waist and 45 hip. The pattern says for women to size down on these since they are unisex, If you are a pear shaped woman with an ample bottom half I strongly suggest ignoring the instructions and sew the size your hip corresponds to. alterations:  I do know I did a 1/2” knock knee alteration on these.  I have found this makes ALL the difference in how my pants fit below the butt to the knee.  This is by far my most ah-ha moment in pants fitting.  I never thought I had knock knees but now, its all I can see.  this alteration is gold. I talk about the knock knee alteration and show the photo how to do it in the middle of this pj post here.

I scooped the butt curve an entire 1.5” and added 1.5” to the length of the pants too.

Thoughts:  I find 5oo4 patterns just aren’t drafted well to my shape.  Which is ok, not every company will draft to the same shape and no shape is standard.  I do love these pj pants. I love how the pockets are put in.  They don’t flop around when sewn.  I have made these pants for everyone in the family and they all get worn often so they must be a hit with them.

Whew!  Lots of pajama pants and shorts here.  Some were hits (Jalie 2686, Burda 11/2007 #122, and 5oo4 pj pants); and some are just a work in progress still.

Thanks for reading! And Happy Sewing! Kristin

2 pairs of pants–Greenstyle brassies and Burda 11/2007 #122

Let’s start with the easy ones – They turned out almost perfect and are heavenly to wear. Pattern: Burda 11/2007 #122 Sewn before in Purple space dye and red yoga knit

Date Sewn: July-Aug 2020

My measurements at the time: Waist 32/Hip 46.5

Size used: Waistband 42; Front Piece: 42 waist, 44 hip to hem; Back Piece: 42 waist, graded to 46 at hip to knee and back to 44 the rest of the way to hem. I added 1.5” for the hem like the magazine stated and actually did the 1.5 chunky hem (it’s awesome, I love long pants and a chunky hem).

Alterations: I scooped the butt curve about 1/2 inch. I changed this pair to an enclosed elastic waist instead of a fold over yoga waist. I feel like it was too hard to keep the French terry from sliding down on this fabric with the yoga band. I used 1.5” elastic and it works great.

Instructions: For Burda, these are good instructions.  However, the pattern is also simple to sew up and not too much to mess up.

Fabric: A super soft, perfectly weighted gray French terry.  This fabric is amazing.  I think I picked it up at Walmart in one of those $4 for 2 yards rolls that they have now. I can’t remember exactly though. I used 2 yards.

(picture below is where I wear them comfortably.  They are just a tiny bit wrinkled in the inner thigh there)

(and this picture below is when I pull the waist down about 1/2” to 1” to sit even on my hips. Darn near perfect!)

Thoughts: Wow. I loved my purple pair of these pants until I painted in them and ruined them.  I still love and wear my red yoga pants in this pattern all the time.  Now I have these gray ones and they are the stuff dreams are made of.  They fit well, almost perfectly.  They are so soft and comfortable to wear; they don’t attract dog hair or fuzzies.  I don’t want to ever take them off!!  In fact, I’ve worn them the past 2 days now! I love everything about them.

 

Pattern: Greenstyle Brassies

Date Sewn: I’ve been really good about writing down the dates when I sew stuff but I forgot to on these.  I think I started them at least 6 months ago. Then there were too many adjustments so I just stopped sewing them.

My measurements at the time: Waist 32.5, Hip 47.5

Size used: 3xl hip to 2xl waist and 4xl calf. These are midrise in height, no leg cuffs. My hip was just barely out of the 2XL size and not quite the 3XL size but because of my large rear I chose to sew the larger size of 3XL hip.  Since I wear my pants waists lower than waist level I choose to make a 2XL waist even though my actual waist measures in a size between L and XL.  In hindsight I have zero idea why I chose to make the waist a 2xl since I usually have to size down 2 in the waist. Also, I have big calves that are hyper-extended so I chose the 4xl size by measuring the pattern with my calf measurement.

Alterations: I had to do a ton of alterations to these, more than I think I have ever done on any pattern before.

• 3/8” extended at back thigh with back crotch curve
• 1/2” scooped butt and then scooped another 3/4”!!
• 1” taken in for sway back and center back
• 1/2” added to top of back waist at outer hip
• 1” added to back butt rise at center back hip level sloped to 1/2” at side hip back (a slash and spread for more crotch length)
• 3/8” added to inner thigh with front crotch curve
• 1/4” scooped at front crotch – then scooped 1/2” more!
• then I had to take 1/4” off from hip out seam down to knee, tapering in to 0 at waist and calf. (initially I added 1/4” here but then had to take off 1/2” making it 1/4” in the end)

Fabric:  A black French terry. I used 2 yards; I purchased this 100% cotton French terry from Stylishfabric in July 2017 for $6.90/yard.  It’s a decent French terry I would call medium weight. Thoughts: I’m ok with how they turned out, but I feel I had to do so many alterations for my shape that it was exhausting.  I’ll wear them awhile to see how they fit. I do like the pockets and how they are sewn down so there is no floppy pocket bag.  The front crotch still has some weirdness going on – it feels too long and I’m not sure if the pattern is intended for a dropped crotch or if my rise is just too long.So they are just ok and not something I love.

(picture below is where I wear them comfortably.  They are wrinkled in the inner thigh there)

(and this picture below is when I pull the waist down about 1/2” to 1” to sit even on my hips. Better looking than the above but with loose back thighs now)

Looking at these pictures, I’m thinking that some of my back under butt wrinkles are because I don’t have enough length for my butt (not enough rise). By pulling the pants down and allowing my butt to have the right length most the wrinkles disappear.  I think I will experiment with adding to the rise of the front and back by 1” but then sloping the front down to my comfort spot of way low rise. That will add the length to the back all across (instead of my slash and spread angle I do just at middle of center back curve).

Pants shown with my Ottobre 02/2007 #1 tank top

Thanks for reading!

Kristin

Some Christmas Jammies

I really wanted to sew all of us some Christmas Jammies this year but then I got sooooo sick at Thanksgiving (still am) and couldn’t make them all.  I already shared my Snoopy Christmas leggings here.

I did get a few things sew though.  Miss K is a slave driver and even on my death bed she is demanding.  She wanted her pajamas to match our youngest puppy.  She hounded me about it for weeks.  So I finally made them.

Lets start with the top.

Patterns for Pirates – Slim Fit Raglan

Previous Makes: none! I’ve never made the slim fit version.  I’ve sewn the relaxed raglan countless times.

Her measurements at the time:  34 bust, 27 waist, 40 hip

Size sewn: Medium

Date sewn: 12/18/19

Alterations: none

Fabric: Banana Yellow Cotton Lycra for the sleeves, from Stylish fabrics purchased July 2017 for $6.90/yard. It is listed as Jersey knit fabric combed, 10 oz.  Also used Disney Lilo & Stitch Christmas Knit fabric in red, 95% cotton 5% spandex. I purchased this Jan 2019 for only $1.70/yard!!!  I used probably 1/2 yard for this top.  It doesn’t wash very well and has weird flaws throughout the fabric, sadly.

Thoughts: Miss K hates the fit at the shoulders and bust; She does like the length.  She wore it the one time for about 5 minutes and took it off. She says she won’t wear raglan style again.

bottoms:  Burda – 11/2007 #122 Previous Makes: In Sept 2017 I made a gray space dyed pair for Miss K;  In Dec 2017 I made myself 2 pairs: a purple space dye and a red yoga knit pair.  I literally live in the red pair now still.

Her measurements at the time:  34 bust, 27 waist, 40 hip

Size sewn: 42

Date sewn: 12/18/19

Alterations: scooped 1/4” out of the butt curve; took in 1/2” at the waist on all sides. used half the width of the waistband piece.  Scooped 1/4” out of the front crotch curve.

Fabric: used Disney Lilo & Stitch Christmas Knit fabric in red, 95% cotton 5% spandex. I purchased this Jan 2019 for only $1.70/yard!!!  I used probably 2 yards for these.  It doesn’t wash very well and has weird flaws throughout the fabric, sadly.

Thoughts: They are 1-2” too long at hem. They need 1/4” more scooped out of the butt curve.  Miss K made me go back and add a pocket in the butt for her phone.

She loves these and wears them a ton.  The red is fading so fast with each wash even though I wash on cold, boo. Anyway, this pattern is a winner, we both love it.

Puppy Pajamas:

Mimi & Tara – Pets Pajamas Button Up Pattern

Previous Makes: I made these one other time for Bennie but it looks like I forgot to post it! So I’ll add them to the bottom of this post.

Size Sewn: Straight Medium

Alterations: took 1/2” off at Center front at waist to 0 at the neck.  He has a tiny tummy.

Fabric: Banana Yellow Cotton Lycra for the bands, from Stylish fabrics purchased July 2017 for $6.90/yard. It is listed as Jersey knit fabric combed, 10 oz.  Also used Disney Lilo & Stitch Christmas Knit fabric in red, 95% cotton 5% spandex. I purchased this Jan 2019 for only $1.70/yard.  I used probably 1/2 yard for this.

Thoughts: I love them! He loves them! Miss K loves that she matches him! It’s a win-win-win. And who doesn’t love puppies in pajamas!  He wears them all the time.

So in September 2018 I made these the first time for Bennie Bear.  He still wears these pajamas often.  The fabric is a light French terry that I picked up from Stylish Fabrics.  It worked perfect for his jammies.

Purple, Purple and a Puppy

Well, the year is almost over and I still have a bunch of makes I haven’t posted yet. Oops.  I will do my best to catch up so I can start my big plans for next year, fresh.

Here are 3 makes for me (1 fail, 2 successes) and a make for the puppy. 

Ottobre 02/2017 #2 “All Day Long” Rayon Jersey Top



Size: 42 at shoulder to waist, graded to a 44 hip in front and 46 hip in back. 

Adjustments: 1/2” forward shoulder adjustment. Raised neckline 1/2” because it looked low



Instructions are to the point, easy enough to follow.  The neck and hem are bound, cuffs at the arms. 



Fabric: 2 yards Midnight Plum Rayon Spandex Jersey Knit. Purchased May 2017 from Fabricmartfabrics.com on sale for $4/yard.  $8 total.  This is a heavier rayon spandex than I’m used to.  It does make the top hang a bit more (pull towards the ground). 



Thoughts:  Fail.  miserable fail.  I do not like the drop shoulder; Honestly I didn’t think the pattern had this at all, big oversight.  It is also super long.  Like Tunic long.  It looks oversized, baggy, and huge on me.   If I pull up the bottom it looks halfway decent but I still don’t like that shoulder.  I will attempt to use it for a nightgown but I am afraid it is destined for the trash or repurpose pile.  Hmm, there is a lot of fabric here, maybe I can get a cowl tank out of it.  I do love the color.




BurdaStyle 11/2007 #122

I had this pattern pegged to make myself some yoga pants, and then Miss K needed some like “right now” back in September for Gym.  She even used the black space fabric I wanted to use.  After I got over my disappointment of making them for her instead of me, I picked out the same fabric in a different color and made my own. 



Size:Waistband 42; Front Piece: 42 waist, 44 hip to hem; Back Piece: 42 waist, graded to 46 at hip to knee and back to 44 the rest of the way to hem. I added 1.5” for the hem like the magazine stated but then only did 1” hem. 



Instructions:  For Burda, these are good instructions.  However, the pattern is also simple to sew up so not too much to mess up.



Fabric: 2 yards Eggplant Space Dye Poly Spandex Performance Tech Knit Fabric;  It is 90% Poly, 10% Spandex. Purchased from StylishFabrics.com in July 2017 for $7.20/yard. $14.40 total for these pants.  This fabric is amazing.  it is soft and slippery.  It feels closer to ITY than athletic wear.  It has great recovery though.  When I wear these pants it feels like silk on my legs.  The fabric is perfect for warmer weather. 



Thoughts:   I love love love these pants.  They are so easy to make, fit really well, and are super comfortable to wear.  I loved them so much that I made a second pair in this thick red yoga knit fabric. 



Fabric: Premium Red Yoga Knit from Knitpop.  Super thick and luscious.  Purchased in June 2017; it was $10.50/yard in a half off sale.  So $21 total for this pair. This fabric is awesome to wear too.  It has great recovery and is super soft and plush. 



And now for the puppy.  Back in September I was preparing Bear (aka bennie, beanie, etc).  for his first shave.  Knowing he would be cold I made him a cute shirt.  I even embroidered his name on the back.  His full name is Bear E.B. Benson. 

Pattern: Sophi and Friends (on etsy) Dog Tee Shirt Pattern 1764



Size: Tiny little 8lb Bear measured in the Large/XL size.  I measured twice to be sure.  I made him the size Large.


Fabric:  A small bit of Turquoise Cotton Lycra from the scrap pile. 



Instructions:  The instructions are good.  I had no problems putting this together.



Thoughts: Pretty good fit though I will probably size down next time.  It is really baggy near his belly and well…. he’s a boy so it needs to be shorter and tighter across his belly. 



He was thoroughly confused by the shirt and the pictures.  It’s so hard to live a dog’s life.



Happy Sewing!