Ottobre 02/2017 #7 Basic Concept Linen Coat

Pattern: Ottobre 02/2017 #7 Basic Concept Linen Coat  (that's the pattern name, clearly mine is not made with linen, lol).

Date Sewn: I started sewing this 10/09/20 and finished 10/23/20

My measurements at the time: 39.5 bust, 32 waist, 45.5 hip

Size used: 44 bust/waist to 48 hip

Alterations: I moved the elbow pads up the arms 1.5” from the pattern markings to where they would cover my elbows. I did a 1/2” forward shoulder adjustment as standard for me.

Instructions:  They were very detailed and I mostly followed them in construction.  I had no issues and did not get hung up anywhere which is good because this is my first coat pattern I've sewn and there were no pictures to follow, just word instructions.

Fabric: textured twill woven double layered fabric with soft brushed fleece back. The face of this woven fabric has a water resistant coating. I purchased it from fashion fabrics club in feb 2018 and knew I wanted to use it on this exact coat. The title is “twill soft shell fleece – charcoal gray/black”  which is funny because the outer water resistant fabric is denim looking (but doesn’t feel like denim. It is thinner and slick). It was $6.97 a yard and I used 3 full yards for this coat.

Thoughts: This coat was a project!  Whew. It took days and days and wrangling of the fabric.  The fabric I used was thick because it was double layered which makes it stiff-like, even though the pattern suggested a linen type fabric with drape.  However, I had this coat in my mind with this fabric and I was going to see it through.  My cover stitch hated the fabric; this is the only fabric in 3 years it has ever hated.  The fleece-y underside was very grabby and made it hard for the feed dogs to move the fabric. I tried sticking my water soluble stabilizer under there but there was a ton of sewing and topstitching on this coat. I would have to use tons of the stabilizer.  So I just forced it through and plugged on.

Lets start with what I don’t like:

• The hood is enormous. ENORMOUS! What the hell!!  It is like an astronaut helmet as Miss K likes to call it. It is fine with the hood down, but this is a rain coat…. It needs the hood up in the rain. There is no drawstring to bring it in so there is no way this would stay on my head in any sort of wind.
• The belt ties are way too short.  I need at least 6” or more to tie this belt appropriately.
• The bodice is about 3” too long for my torso.  My waist is higher up so the ties do not hit at my smallest; this causes the coat to want to ride up when tied, to rest on my natural waist.
• The sleeves are really wide!  This makes them seem too long on my arms.

Now lets list the likes:

• I love this fabric. It is fun, water resistant, and the fleece is so soft.  This will definitely keep me warm on nasty, rainy days.
• I love the style and look of this pattern. Yes my fabric is too stiff and it overwhelms me but I kind of like that for a raincoat.
• The topstitching details look nice and I like how the upper and lower are split in two on this coat.  The back is also split into a left and right side on bottom.
• The pockets are so darn cute. They are put in the right spot to comfortably stick my hands in and they are big enough to hold my phone and keys.  They are perfect pockets!

I am still working at sewing this entire issue because it is such a stellar issue. Here is what I have sewn from this issue so far:

• #2 all day long jersey top
• #5 summer safari shorts
• #7 this basic concept coat
• #8 hide away hoodie
• #9 stream leggings
• #11 painted t-shirt dress
• #13 swing top and #14 wide leg pants are in progress

And there are still a bunch of items I want to make from the issue! Wearing my P4P Sweet Tee and Jalie 3022 Yoga pants in these photos.

Thanks for reading!

Kristin

2 cardigans: Sinclair Harper and Jalie 3248

(apologies for the first set of pictures. I attempted to use a ring light here on a rainy day and the result was not as I hoped).

Pattern: Sinclair Harper

Date Sewn: Started 08/04/20, finished 08/06/20

My measurements at the time: 39 bust, 31 waist, 45.5 hip

Size used: 12 for bust/waist and 16 for hip

Alterations: 1/2” forward shoulder adjustment which is normal for me.

Fabric: 2 yards of Dark Grey Honeycomb Double knit.  It is 50% polyester and 50% rayon.  I purchased it from fashionfabricsclub in June 2019 for $3.92/yard.

Thoughts: I like it.  It feels slightly tight in the arms.  I would like a little more room in the arms because I can’t wear any long sleeve shirts under this.  I feel the pockets are in an odd spot, not very functional because of where they sit height-wise.  It doesn’t close shut over my bust or hips, but I’m not sure it is meant to come that far in anyway. It is a nice cardigan.  I like the fabric. I like the length.  It was a fast, easy sew.  It is just ok. I’m not sure if I would make another.

Also wearing my P4P Sweet Tee and Jalie 3022 Yoga pants here. Pattern: Jalie 3248 Drop Pocket Cardigan Sewn before: black one in March 2017, Gray one Aug 2016, teal one for Miss K (still unblogged).

Date Sewn: I traced and cut this last fall and didn’t get to sewing it until this fall 08/16/20

My measurements at the time of tracing and cutting: 39 bust, 32 waist, 47.5 hip

Size used: y for bust/waist and cc for hip

Alterations: none

Fabric: 2 yards Black sweatshirt fleece.  Single sided sweatshirt knit with plush brushed fleece back. It is super soft. I purchased it in Feb 2018 for $3.94/yard from Stylish fabrics.

Thoughts: I love this drop pocket design, plus there are double front pieces so they act as a full facing.  There aren’t many seams visible on this cardigan – just the sides and sleeves.  I wear my other two a ton and have gained some weight so they are a bit small on me. I miss wearing them because I seriously reached for them and wore them almost every time I left the house.  This one turned out a little big on me but I don’t care. It is soft and wonderful and I will wear it a ton too! I need to remake a gray one now.  The gray one I made previously was a thin sweater knit and absolutely perfect in every way.  I always want one of these drop pocket cardigans in my wardrobe. I love them!

Also wearing my Jalie 3022 Yoga pants here and a sneak peek at a top I can’t share yet!

Thanks for reading!

Kristin

Closet Core Patterns - Ginger Jeans as Shorts

Pattern: Closet Core Patterns – Ginger Jeans as Shorts

Date Sewn: I traced, altered, and cut these out in June of 2019.  I didn’t get them sewn up until July 2020 (oops).

My measurements at the time of tracing were 32 waist, 46 hip - right now I measure 31 waist, 45.5 hip  so very similar.

Size used: Based on my measurements I made a size 12 waist and then the front a size 14 hip, the back I did an 18 hip. To be honest, I was being really lazy and just used the pattern I had traced and altered when I made my jeans back in June 2017 and those were the sizes I had used.

Alterations: besides the above mixing of sizes, I also sewed the inner and outer legs with a 3/8” Seam allowance instead of 1/4 because I had gained some weight since those 1st jeans. After I sewed up the entire shorts, I found the waistband to be about 3” too short.  This happened on my Jalie shorts I was also working on and has happened in the past for me too.  I just sewed on a 3” piece and kept sewing to finish them.  I wear a belt always anyway so it isn’t noticeable that I did this.

Instructions: The instructions for this pattern are fantastic. These are hands down the best pants/jeans instructions I’ve ever encountered.  I’d buy this pattern just for those.  There are nice easy steps, very detailed, and lots of pictures.  There is also a sew-a-long on the Closet Core website; however the pattern instructions are written so well, I didn't’ need to reference the sew-a-long.

Fabric: “Midnight Blue Stretch Denim” that I purchased in Feb 2016 from fashionfabrics club for $6.25/yd.  96% Cotton 4% Lycra. They were the leftovers from when I made my original jeans.

Thoughts:  I like these a lot.  I lightened some of the photos so they can be seen better but the shorts are very dark in color.  I like how soft the material is.   I have done some extensive pants fitting since tracing and cutting these so I would do differently if I were to make them again.  Mainly I would use a straight size 16 but grade down the waist. Then I would do a knock knee alteration and also I would raise the back rise 1/2” to 3/4” by slashing and spread across the back piece at hip level.  However, as I mentioned, these were already cut out and I just didn’t get to sewing them in 2019. Too many health issues came up and I also didn’t feel like the whole long process of sewing jean shorts.  I wanted jean shorts, I just didn’t want to put in the work! I finished these in July and have worn then quite a bit since.  They still have some fit issues but they are totally wearable.

Health update: I have been a bit absent lately because I have been dealing with even more health issues. It never seems to end.  I have been feeling especially poorly the last year or so and I took some tests in September and found out I had C. diff.  This was a total shock to me.  I finished the gross medicine – which also made me feel terrible and I’m now just waiting to retest.  I also had to start doing b12 injections because I can never seem to get it up by sublingual.  So, two very crazy things and I’m just trying to muddle through and hope I feel functional on the other side. On a positive note I finally received 2 negative H. pylori tests a year apart so I can confidently say I have beaten H. pylori! Yay!  Now that I’ve hopefully cured the C. diff, my stomach has settled down slightly and I feel a bit better.

Thanks for reading!

Kristin