Sunday, September 1, 2013

Blue Linen Pants ~ Jalie 3243

In August I made Miss K the cutest pink linen shorts with this pattern.  I loved the outcome but wanted to make a few changes when I went to sew pants for me.

(Be prepared for some spur of the moment, exhausted mom-needs-kids-to-be-back-in-school photos)

I won't repeat the information I listed on the shorts post but only the updated things I did to the linen pants.

First, I wanted to make the waistband separate.  I don't like how they went over the top of the pockets in the original.  To do this I took the facing pieces and measured them.  Facings and pants already have seam allowances added.  Facings were 2 inches wide so I took this off the top of each side of pants patterns at the waist.  I also had to take it off the top of the pockets and pocket facing.  I then knew I wanted to fold over the waistband and not fiddle with facings so I added an inch to each waistband facing to equal 3 inches (1 inch elastic casing and 1/2 inch seam allowance for each side when flipped down).  I didn't want to over-think things so I just went with this.  I should have made the facings less curved, or curved correctly because when I went to sew them together they didn't line up quite right.

The pants sewed up just fine.  My hips measure at 42 inches so this is right at a size X.  I went with the size X (or 41cm, 11US) straight through.

I thought the rise looked high but kept at it.  After the pants were made I tried them on and I think that they are just a tad too tight in the butt/hip area.  I think I should have went up to a size Y (or 12US).  I measured the inseam before sewing and they were at a 31.5.  I measured my favorite pants and they measured 32.5 so I added an inch to the inseam.  The pants are long, I could have left that inch off.

The rise is a bit high in front.  I tend to wear my pants very low and don't like things going across my stomach by my belly button.  In the future I would curve out another 1-2 inches in the front only.  The back appears high but when I sit down they are just right without showing backside.

I'm not super crazy about them.  They are comfortable but appear more like lounge wear or pajama pants.  Perhaps it's the color I chose.  Also, the pockets aren't big enough to get my hands in comfortably so I'd add the 2 inches back into the pockets, which would also lower them down. I would like to try again with a more "mature" colored fabric such as a black, gray, or tan.

simple pattern
fast to sew
very comfortable

tiny pockets
higher rise
a little tight

So to re-cap, things to change for next time:
re-curve the front waistline to be 1-2 inches lower so they are lowrise
re-draw the waistband so it lays/fits better
add 2 inches to pockets and pocket facings to make them bigger/longer
use a different colored fabric
possibly use wider elastic in pants - using 3/4 inch because that's what I have, may try 1.5 or 2 in.

I do still like the pattern.  I just need to make some of the changes.

Fabric: 1.75 yards of "solid linen blue medium" from Hancock's sale last week.  originally $17.99/yard but I got it for $3.20/yard.  Total cost= $5.60
the 1.75 is for non-directional fabric.  You would use a bit more like 2.25 if you had a print or nap.

~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~


  1. I had a similar experience. The pants are slim-fitting through the hips. In a stretch woven, I could use the size for my actual measurements. In a non-stretch fabric, I would advise going up a size.

    I drafted my own pockets with mixed success, too.

    I like the curved waistband. It's unusual in pull-on pants and elevates the fit.

    1. Thanks! And yes, they seem to be slim-fitting in the hips. Not the best for a curvy pear-shape like me :)

      A stretch woven would be wonderful with these. You actually gave me the idea that a stretch velour would be perfect - without pockets. I love my fuzzy lounge pants!

  2. It's nice to see these in an adult version. Maybe the slimmer fit is meant to counteract the elastic waist effect? That also seems to fit with Jalie tending to be slim-fitting. But I like them for what they are - casual pants that aren't extremely baggy. They seem like a good base to play around with (bigger pockets, maybe some pockets in back.)

    1. They are a good base and I think Jalie patterns are wonderful. I always get excited by the pattern envelope and don't think about my body type and how it will fit ;-)

      I think pockets in the back would be cool; and yes, casual pants are fun and I'm glad they aren't overly baggy. I just need to play around with them.


  3. Good idea to blog your thoughts, great reference for later.


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