How to sew a Slit Pocket (onto the back of pants/shorts)

Part of me is writing this post for future reference for myself, and part of me is writing it in case someone else needs the visual help.

Yesterday I was sewing Ottobre Pattern #38 Harrison (bermuda shorts or pants) from the 03/2012 issue.  Everything was going smoothly until I came to the back slit pocket.  I read the directions and acted out the parts three times going "What the heck?"  I finally did figure it out, however visual reference would have made the process much easier.

How to sew a Slit Pocket

Back Pants panel with slit pocket completed

1. Draw rectangles from pattern onto right side of pants panel and wrong side of pocket fabric. Be sure to interface around the pants panel rectangle having 1/2 inch of interface extending over the sides of the drawn rectangle (I forgot this, crap). Place Right sides together with wrong side of pocket fabric facing you.  Sew around rectangle with machine.  Cut slit down the middle of rectangle and side triangles.  Stuff pocket fabric through the opening to the other side of the pants panel.  You will have a hole like below.

2. Iron and top-stitch around the entire rectangle from right side of pants panel.  Flip over to the wrong side of pants panel so you are looking at right side of pocket fabric.  Pleat over the top of the rectangle hole you just sewed with the pocket fabric as shown in above and below pics. Iron this pleat up so that it covers hole.

3. Carefully fold the bottom of pocket up and on top of this part of the pocket shown above.  (or place other pocket fabric on top with right sides together if they were separate pieces). Topstitch from front side of pants panel on bottom edge where you see my blue line in pic above.

 4. Pin together catching only pocket pieces in and carefully keeping pleated part the way it is.

5. Sew all around pocket fabrics (do not sew pants panel).  Serge or edge finish pocket sides when done.

6. Flip pants over and topstitch the top part of the panel catching in all layers (on the pic below this is the bottom part as my pants panel is flipped upside down). Now admire the cute Slit pocket!

I hope my steps help someone out!


~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~