Saturday, November 30, 2013

Ottobre 05/2013 #1A - J.Crew Knockoff

I saw this cute color block shirt on J. Crew's website a week or so ago and decided I would make a similar top.  I used Ottobre 05/2013 #1A.
Outcome? Love it!


Pattern:
traced a size 40 on top and sleeves and sloped out to a 44 at the hips. my measurements: 36-29-42 and I'm 5'7".

Inspiration:



















Alterations:
-long sleeves not 3/4
- 1/2" square shoulder adjustment - Nancy's Pivot and slide method
- 1/2" slope out of each front and back neckline to compensate for gaping.
- 1/2" swayback adjustment - Nancy's Pivot and slide method
- I traced the top of each front and back "yoke" then added seam allowance; and then traced out the bottom parts.  I used my first tracing of this top seen here and simply laid a new tissue paper on top to do the separate top and bottom traces.
- Used fusible stay tape for shoulders


Sewing:
Sewed up like a dream.  Attach front "yoke to bottom front. same for back. sew shoulders. attach neck in the round. sew in sleeves. hem sleeve bottoms. sew from sleeve end to armpit to bottom of shirt all in one swipe.
I used my serger for most sewing.  I did baste in sleeves and neck round with my sewing machine.  I used a twin needle and walking foot on the sleeve and bottom shirt hem.
This was a fast sew and I was so happy when it fit well.
I wore this all day today at my Mom's Thanksgiving and it was very comfortable.


Changes for next time:
- re-address swayback. maybe try a different method?
- make sleeves wider, they are a bit snug.


Fabric: mystery blue knit - very soft and stretchy. most likely a rayon blend. 1 yard;
gray knit leftover from Burda cardigan 62" wide, 1/2 to 3/4 yard used "charcoal gray sweater knit" $4.94/yard from fashion fabrics club.

I need to make some more things from this issue. It is one of my favorites and I think I have earmarked almost every page!



** I also wanted to note that I appreciate all the advice on my problem polo dress ** I will be adding a dart and moving forward with it soon.  On a similar note, I noticed I have faint traces of those lines on this shirt too and studied myself in the mirror with it on.  It seems my large rear is pulling the bottom shirt front fabric toward my back end and creating drag lines - on this shirt anyway.  Hmm. possibly add more fabric in the back width-wise to cover the larger rear. Will this solve the swayback? or will I still need to take out some length in the back for that.  We will have to see!

~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~

16 comments:

  1. It fits perfectly! I think your adjustments were right on, including your swayback adjustment!

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    1. aww. Thanks Mrs. Smith! :D success! lol

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  2. This is awesome! I love the design change you made and the fit is quite nice. My slim-fitting t-shirts do the same thing, even though I'm dangerously close to having a flat seat. I guess there'd be no drag lines if a popsicle stick wore the shirt! I've never bothered to adjust that in a t-shirt, but I often make small tweaks whenever I make a new iteration of the same pattern.

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    1. Thanks Joy! I think I just need to relax a bit and not be such a perfectionist when I sew. It prevents me from sewing many patterns :(

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    2. I agree, I have clothes I know I love the look of but if I photograph them I can find all kinds of drag lines at a given moment. Clothing has to be able to move with you and it will wrinkle and twist but if you like what you see in the mirror it's good. There's no alteration which will sit perfectly at all times. I think you've achieved an incredible fit. Anyway, the gal at J Crew has wrinkles on her tummy and probably has excess fabric clamped on her back, too.

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    3. Thank you! Yes, I noticed her wrinkles too :D

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  3. WOW, I love the color combo on this! I have this Ottobre issue, so now you have inspired me to do this for myself!

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  4. I was thinking about the pulling trying to figure out what it might be and thought of the "rear" adjustment. I bet if you added a little room in the back the lines might go away!

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    1. Thanks Brooke, I'm going to try that for sure.

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  5. That's a great result. I love quick and thrifty sewing! I am trying to resist that Ottobre magazine as I have trillions of resources and not enough time to use them all, but I'm weakening. They are just the sort of clothes I'd wear every day.

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    1. Haha Philippa, give in to the magazine! They rock. I love that they are styles I actually wear. and Thanks!

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  6. Love the color blocking! It's a great way to add a little interest to a basic tee.

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    1. Thanks Cindy! I think this is my new go-to favorite :D I wish it was washed all the time and in my closet every morning!

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