Thursday, March 14, 2013

How I Sew Hems on Knits with a Twin Needle

A week or so ago I was asked about sewing the hems on my recent knit projects so I thought I would take some pictures and share my process with you.
I love this method of finishing hems on knits because it looks just like RTW clothing and it finishes the back and front at the same time.  Plus, it is super easy to do so I love that too!
First I must say, I took these pictures at night in my sewing room so the lighting isn’t the best.

Hint: Use WonderTape.  It will become your best friend.  I was hesitant at first because I didn't see the point in it but now I see the results and find it a necessity.  This stuff is cheap to buy and lasts awhile too. It is like a two sided tape that holds things together but then washes out when you are done.  This is what the Dritz brand looks like:

So here is my unfinished shirt bottom and the WonderTape.

Step 1: Press up hem bottom 1 inch with the iron.
Step 2: Add the WonderTape to the underneath of the hem.  Put it just below the one inch mark so that it covers the top of the fabric line but doesn’t show above it. 

Step 3: Pull off the WonderTape backing and press down hem with your fingers.  It is not a good idea to iron the WonderTape because it can melt and well, you just don’t want that.

Also needed is the twin needle.  I use a Schmetz Stretch Twin Needle as seen below.  I love it on knits.

Also, you need to prepare your machine.  I have one thread in the normal spot and then I have this rod attachment that came with my machine, which I put on the bobbin winder spot. 

Here it is with the thread.  Then I wind both of them down and around the normal way and thread each one into an eye of the twin needle.  (You also have a normal bobbin in the bobbin spot).

Step 4: Sew the hem with the twin needle.  Sew from the top or right side.  I use a moderate speed, not slow, not fast.  Also, it is very important that you don’t stretch or pull on the knit.  Let the feed dogs do their job here and just guide the fabric.

Here is a picture of the final hem. See how nice it looks? Here is from the front:

Here is what the back looks like.

That is all there is to it.  However, I did want to show you the difference in how the WonderTape helps.
Here is a picture of how it turns out without the WonderTape.  See how the hem is all wonky?

And here is how nice and even it is with the WonderTape

And one more of the wonky wobble without the WonderTape.

I hope the pictures help you out.  Thanks!

~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~


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