Thursday, June 26, 2014

Advice Needed

I have been tackling lots of things this week.  I traced and cut muslins for FIVE patterns! five!  (so proud of myself and of my back for holding up!).  I am in the process of re-arranging my sewing room (and K's room), cleaning up the attic, and purging unneeded things around our house.

The first muslin I wanted to tackle was my Thurlow shorts.  I've got them where I'm mostly pleased, but have an issue in the back that I can't seem to fix.  Please help!

(oh, and excuse the striped underwear)

Front view. Looks good - I have one leg higher than the other to test what I like better 
(the right, my left is the winner)

Side view - I know my seam line is tilting toward the front - sigh. I am sure this is due to my protruding upper thighs. But this is something I can live with

Back view I'm happy with - and impressed I got this clear of a picture while twisting!

Herein lies the problem.  Under my butt cheek there is a poof of fabric. See the following pictures

Most of my shorts come in like this to hug the cheek better...

But these fall flat, straight off my butt.  How do I get them to taper in more? I tried a dart on the back leg - no luck.  I tried taking in the side seams more - no luck.  

One last front view
 
Any advice on how to get rid of that excess fabric without messing up the rest of the short bottoms?  Or am I just being too picky here? Help!  and Thanks in advance :D


~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~

Friday, June 20, 2014

New Look 6285 Tank ~ What the?



Do not let the nice looking, nice fitting tank fool you.  It was a lot of work to get here.


Let's rewind to the beginning.  I saw this pattern and thought how cute it would be to have an easy tank pattern with color blocking, and other cute options, that I didn't have to work on myself.  It's sometimes nice to just have the pattern already done and not have to do any of the work myself.  Simple tank - easy sew, right? Ha!
Misses' Knit Tank Tops

K and I re-took our measurements this week, so I'm working with a fresh set of exact measurements for this top. 36-29-42.  My high bust is a 34 and necklines usually don't fit me well so I go off the 34 for the shoulders and neck.  I always look at the suggested size for my measurements as well as the completed measurements.  I'm working with View C, and for this top that put me at 12 for neck/shoulder, 14 for bust and waist, and 16+ for hips.  Before any alterations, I noticed the front armhole on the top contrast to bottom doesn't fit up right - the top is 1/8" off.
before massive alterations

I traced the 12-14-16 and completed a forward shoulder adjustment as well as a square shoulder adjustment.  I also completed a 1/2" swayback adjustment.  I tried on the paper pattern and although it looked a bit low, it all seemed fine.  I cut out my pieces and sewed the shoulders together. That's when I realized this pattern's sizing was WAY off!

I ended up taking off even more than this in the long run (wrong side up is altered, right side up is original)


As you can see in these pictures, the armholes are far down and huge.  The sides are large as well.  I can't believe how loose this tank is because it looks nice and slim on the model on the cover. I was not giving up.  I pinned and redrew lines where it should be.  I took out a total of 8 freaking inches off the sides of this thing from the bust, down to 2 at the waist and 1 at the hip.  I pulled up the shoulder straps to where the armhole would sit correct (this was 2 inches) - but forgot to make the back contrast match the front.  Oh well, you win some you lose some.
(miss K was my unstable photographer, lol)


All these changes meant the neckline binding was reduced by 6 inches and the armholes by 5 inches.  Funny enough, the instructions were written well enough.  The only thing I would change would be to sew on the neck binding before sewing up the sides of the tank - but that is my personal preference.


I would not recommend this pattern to anyone, unless they want a very loose tank.  In the end, I'm happy with my tank and how it fits -now!

The fabric is wonderful to work with. They are both from the Kaufman Laguna Stretch Jersey Knit Line.  The orange is called just that, and the blue is Tile Turquoise/White.  I used maybe 1/4 yard of the orange and 1/2 of the blue.  It is thin but not too thin, and not see through at all.  I love how soft it is too.  I picked mine up from fabric.com on March 18th, 2014.  $6.99 for the yard of blue, $5.43 for the yard of orange.


On a side note: I'm beginning to question the swayback adjustment.  When it is completed, the back is higher in the middle than the front and side.  This is sometimes annoying because when I stand you can see the hem is not level, it goes up in the back and my large rear is right there, boom!  Also, when I bend over I risk flashing people.  Sigh.  I think I might try other options like lowering the hem in back and widening it to cover my larger rear to see how that affects the fit of the back.  Does anyone one else have this problem? Any suggestions?

June Totals:
(stash is anything purchased before this year)
Stash used: 3 yards
Fabric Out: 4.5 yards
Fabric In: 24.25

Totals for the year to date:
Stash sew this year: 31 yards
Fabric out in 2014: 119.5 yards
Fabric in 2014: 129.75 yards

~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~

Wednesday, June 18, 2014

Burda 10/2009 #145 Girls Skirt

I barely survived camping.  We finally returned home just before the massive storms hit Monday night.  It takes me a few days to decompress.  I'm super introverted and being around that many people just drains me.  But we had fun with family, friends, each other.  We hiked on the bluff and just hung out without electronics.  (Pictures way below).


Last night I was needing a sewing fix, bad.  I hadn't sewn since what seems like forever. I traced out my New Look tank and a skirt for Miss K.  Then today I prewashed and cut the fabric.  This afternoon the kids were busy so I sat down to sew K's skirt quick. I took her measurements today (I do this every 4 months or so because they grow so fast!) and K had a fun time taking my measurements - that girl can get silly. I guess K decided to jump straight from 134 to 146, ugh! Based on her exact measurements I traced and cut the 146.  I even measured the pattern pieces to make sure they would fit over her larger rear.


The directions on these are great.  You get walked through each step nicely.  This is a simpler design, only 3 pieces, so a beginner would have no problem.  K and I both like the kangaroo pocket.  The one thing I didn't like was when I was instructed to baste the raw edge of the waistband before attaching it to the skirt.  I have found that my waistbands do not stretch to fit the skirt if I baste them.  Also, the hem is a big 1.5" and in the front you have 2 layers of pocket and 2 layers of skirt you are flipping up so it gets quite heavy and thick.


I sewed this up in about an hour - it was quick.  The moment of truth?  K went to try it on and it is super big on her, and long.  Just for giggles I tried it on - IT FIT ME! My 42" hip.... hahahaha.  It was very snug but nothing more than a knit pencil skirt would be. Off to the "too big" pile it goes.  She will fit into it eventually and it is such a cute, and quick skirt.

Fabric: the pink is stash sweatshirt fabric from Mill End, 1/2 yard for $1.98.  I previously used this fabric for K's sweatpants here.  The blue and white medallion band is from my soon to be made tank.

In other news... K taught herself to ride her bike a few months ago (her stubbornness and what not) so my mom bought her a bigger bike.  She was so proud of it here


and 2 minutes later took a HUGE digger and fell right onto the handlebars.  She's ok but the battle wounds are nasty!
This guy on her side is turning all shades of purple, green, and yellow now
  her little knee got it too - she's in good spirits and not holding a grudge though

Here are some pictures from our camping trip:

The way up the bluff that we climbed.

The middle of the bluff

Near the top where K and I opted out of going further. I was having a massive anxiety/asthma attack because I'm TERRIFIED of heights, and K was tired.

We had to wait a bit for the boys to return - notice my Burda racer back tank?

Which they did, eventually

My whole body is covered in mosquito bites and it's driving me batty!  Here is one thigh
 and the other - just to show you a small portion of them. It looks like I have measles! ha!

But now I'm off to sew up my tank top.  The rest of this week is pretty open for us and the hubs will be off canoeing all day Sunday (another thing I am terrified of is water with fish in it.  Fish creep me out!) so I will be getting lots of sewing time in.  I hope you are having a great week!

June Totals:
(stash is anything purchased before this year)
Stash used: 3 yards
Fabric Out: 3..75 yards
Fabric In: 24.25

Totals for the year to date:
Stash sew this year: 31 yards
Fabric out in 2014: 118.75 yards
Fabric in 2014: 129.75 yards

~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~