Tuesday, March 25, 2014

Burda 05/2007 #109A Revisited Racer-Back Tank

One of my goals this year is to work on getting a better fit on some of the patterns I've sewn and liked a lot.  I really liked the Burda 05/2007 #109A Racer-back tank I made in the fall but I needed to tweak it just a bit.  I made it in a lightweight knit with purple and gray stripes last time.

This time I used a slightly thicker knit; It is the scraps of Mr. T's raglan tee.  I had to have some of that fabric for myself and it fit perfectly.  I totally copied the colors of his shirt down to the same ribbing - it's ok though because we won't be wearing them at the same time ;-)  The fabric started as a yard of 60" wide for only $3.95 and I bet if I had to guess; that I used about 1/2 yard.

(proof that I do smile - sort of, lol)

Adjustments I made this time around:

  • 1/2" square shoulder 
  • added the SA to the neckline that I forgot last time (oops)
  • added 1" to the front neckline so it wasn't so low cut
  • 1/2" added at hip front and back
  • 1.5" added to hem
  • 1/2" swayback
It seems like a lot, but really it wasn't and they were all easy ones.  I wanted to do the forward shoulder adjustment but forgot.  next time. . . 

I matched the stripes perfectly on this baby - on purpose.  How cool that it actually worked out for me!
I serged all seams except the hem.  I basted the ribbing with my regular machine in the neck and arms before serging, and then top stitched both with my cover stitch (which I also used for the hem).  It went together fast and it turned out great. 

Yes there is still a mild amount of back pooling but at this point I don't care.  I have some small pull lines under the bust and it is because my hips are pulling the shirt toward the back.  I will work on that next time too by adding another 1/2" to just the back hips.  

My cover stitch handled this like a dream.  Thanks Gail! I did switch my serger power cord with the cover stitch and it helped tons with my speed and control.  :D

It's a winner and I will most likely wear it as often as possible all summer.  I have a very small range of comfort with temperature.  Some days I can be cold while wearing a sweatshirt in 80ยบ F weather, other days I need this tank when it's 70ish - so it will come in handy when layering and looks better than just a plain ribbed tank.  The purple and gray stripped tank I made previously has journeyed to the pajama drawer because it is just too thin and too short.  

Oh, and this is Betty.  She and I have had major differences since she arrived.  I'll try to make the story short.  I received Betty for my birthday last March.  She arrived in a mangled, busted up, dirty box.  I tried to send her back for 3 weeks to the company.  They attempted to have FedEx pick her up that whole time.  Betty sat on the outside porch for all of it - taunting me with her large box each day.  It actually became a joke with my kids as if Betty would be gone or not each day.

Well, Betty left one day, but then found her way BACK the next!!! (FedEx is terrible in our area).  Things were worked out with the company and Betty stayed, in her box, for the next 6 months or so.  Then I decided to bring her out, fit the shell, and stuff her into it like a sausage.  Betty has a lot of foam on her. It was hilariously terrible to do all this.  Sigh. Oh Betty.  She still didn't fit my measurements and I gave up.... until yesterday.

I brought out the butcher knife and started hacking away at Betty's large areas.  Then I sewed that shell even smaller and had to sit on her while my husband zipped her up.  The foam was everywhere and it was hard to breathe so I don't recommend it.  Betty is close enough to my measurements in that I just plain give in to her.  She has a much broader back than me, her waist is larger, and I had to put socks over her arm stubs because the foam sticks to everything and I can't put things on and off without the socks.  Plus I can't adjust the swayback in the shell because of the zipper.

I told you it was a story!  So while I tolerate Betty, I don't really like her.

March Totals:
Stash used: 4 yard
Fabric Out: 23 yards + 11 scrap pounds
Fabric In: 13 yards

Totals for the year to date:
Stash sew this year: 17 yards
Fabric out in 2014: 77 yards!
Fabric in 2014: 68 yards

~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~


  1. Wow, you nailed that tank! Don't you feel like a boss when you make a bazillion adjustments and get the fit just right? Even if they're easy ones!

    Love the Betty story too!!

    1. Thanks Gail! It does make me feel like a boss. lol. Gives me confidence to move on to something harder.

      And yes, that darn Betty!!! LOL, thanks

  2. Wow! That tank looks great, just like store bought! I wish I had a serger :)

    1. Thanks Siri! You would love a serger! They do so many awesome things.

  3. Great job on your tank.. Love the stripe fabric.
    Betty story was just too funny... Enjoyed reading about it.

    1. Thanks Judy! It is sad that thinking about her still gets me bristled :)

  4. I love your tank! I wish I had this issue; I may have to look for it. Your topstitching is lovely. Looks like you are really enjoying your new machine!

    1. Thank you Shirley! I posted a request in patternreview for this issue. I had to have it ;-)

  5. The tank top looks great! You can't go wrong with blue and green.

  6. Oh dear Betty sounds like a nightmare! I've got a secondhand tailor's dummy which you alter the size of by turning little cogs. So she (Gloria) is my size, but the shape is distributed a little differently. I do a lot of trying on but I use her every time I'm working on a pattern to see roughly if it's going to fit (sometimes too late!). Those arm stubs must be sooo annoying. Anyway, great job on the tank. Looks as though you've sorted the coverstitching as the whole thing looks like it came from the shops!

    1. Doesn't that just drive you crazy when the size is right but the proportions are a bit off :)
      Thanks, I've fallen in love with that machine!

  7. What a great looking tank. I can see that being a summer staple.

    And wow what a story. I hope Betty redeems herself in time!

    1. Thanks Joy :) I expect it will be. I hope to do a ton of things in the yard this year.
      I'll keep you updated on Betty ;-)

  8. This is a fantastic tank, and it's good to see you smile!


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