Thursday, June 14, 2018

Jalie 3881 Rose - Sleeveless Button Down Shirt

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I made View A with one pocket

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Size: V for Shoulder/Bust/Waist, and grading to Y at the hip. Exact to my measurements

Alterations: None

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Instructions: Excellent as always; very well written.  These are by far the best collar pieces and instructions I have ever seen and sewn.

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Fabric: 2 yards of cotton Poplin from a FabricMart Precut sale.  Seagreen/White/Black 100% Cotton Little Lambs Print Poplin - Cotton + Steel – 44W; Total cost: $3.30 for this top

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Thoughts: excellent top, awesome fit. I really loved putting this collar together. I have never sewn one that looked so good. I enjoy the forward shoulder seam too.  My fabric is really soft but structured.  It looks looser fit than if I had made the top in something clingier and drapey like challis

Issues: The pocket. I feel like it is situated too high. Also, the armhole sits forward, showing straight into my bra.  However, if it were tighter there I wouldn’t have as much ease of movement.

I was a tester for this pattern and I think the top looks great, I love it; especially with my Jalie Drop Pocket Cardigan as above. 

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Sunday, June 10, 2018

Jalie 3677 Helene Cardigan - SWAP

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Size: V at Shoulder/Bust/Waist to Y at Hip

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Alterations:
  • 1/2” forward shoulder
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Instructions: excellent!  I love the pictures with the written instructions.  I’m such a visual person and they help me out a lot.  This cardigan was fun to sew, it was like putting together a puzzle.  The pieces are very unique.

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Fabric:  2 yards Heather Slate Grey Sweater Knit, 90% Polyester 8% Rayon 2% Lycra blend. Purchased Sept 2017 from Fashion Fabrics Club for $3.94 per yard.  Total for Cardi: $7.88

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Thoughts: 
  • I love the design. 
  • I love how the shaping is in the back. 
  • It sews up super, super fast.
  • I feel like the pockets are too far back to be useful (on the pattern photo she is clearly pulling the cardi forward for her hands to be that far ahead).
  • I feel like the cardi needs a button on the front middle. 
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I’m sure I’ll make this pattern again some time and when I do I will shift the pockets forward a bit and add a button.  It’s a great pattern!

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I was so excited for this cardi to look great that I even mitered the corners, and sewed around them with my coverstitch

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Spring/Summer Plan:

Friday, June 8, 2018

Spring SWAP Dresses ~ New Look 6301 & Ottobre 02/17 #11


New Look 6301 Wrap Dress, View B
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Size: Bodice size 12, hip size 14. This is 1 size down in bust and almost 3 sizes down in hip.  I read comments that the dress was large so I sized down and actually did a tissue fitting! 

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Alterations: The tissue fitting showed me many areas to fix before cutting into my fabric. 
  • I took 1/2” tuck from neckline at the collarbone because of gaping there. 
  • I graded the bottom of the sleeve from a 12 to a 14 to accommodate my larger biceps. 
  • The sleeve cap had a whooping 2.5” of ease… in a knit!! My pet peeve.  So I dropped the tall, narrow cap down about an inch – this gave me 1.25” in ease and also made it wider on top – this fits me much better at the shoulder than those tall sleeve caps.
  • 1/2” swayback
  • 1/2” forward shoulder adjustment
  • 1/4” out of CB at neckline to 1/2” out at center back, then to 0” at bottom of bodice.  The pattern has an outward curve in the mid back which was completely opposite of what I needed.  This alteration straightened out the back and solved that issue. 
  • I cut the ties at the size 20 since many people complained how short they were.
  • Skirt pieces 7 & 8 are the exact same so I just cut 2 of #7.
  • I cut two of the front R pieces (#1) and didn’t bother with the front L piece.

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Instructions: The instructions were ok. They explained what I needed to do and I had no issues with them.  I did sew my dress up a bit different in order – easier in my mind.  Pleated fronts, sewed to back at shoulder.  Added front binding, sewed in ties to back. Then sewed sleeves in flat, and sewed up sides.  I sewed skirts together and then sewed skirt to bodice in the round. It went together fairly quickly.

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Fabric: Pattern calls for 2.5 yards fabric for my size.  I somehow made this with only 1.5 yards.  This fabric was from the Fabric Mart precut sale.  I purchased it in Sept 2017 for $3.05 a yard; total $4.58 for this dress.  It is listed as 92% Rayon/8% Lycra blend with 4 way stretch.  The fabric is heavier than most rayon/lycra I own and so so soft.  This fabric cut, sewed, and pressed like a dream.

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Thoughts: I really love this dress!  I was hoping it would work out since the fabric is super soft.  I love the color, the drape, the look.  I do find that the dress grows a little during the day and that the heavier fabric doesn’t have as much recovery as I would like.  But, those are minor things.  If I make the dress again (I already have plans for the tank view) then I want to take another whole inch out of the center back at the neckline – it is still a bit wide in back.  I would also shorten the front bindings and make the front cross over tighter – but this may just be the fabric’s problem with the growing/recovery issue. 

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I think it’s a fantastic “fake” wrap dress pattern.  I would recommend it to anyone!


Ottobre 02/2017 #11 – Tee Shirt Dress
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Size: 42 for bust/waist to 46 at hip. Also made the sleeve 42 at the cap out to 44 at the hem (to gain some width at the bicep).

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Alterations:
  • 1/2” forward shoulder adjustment
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Instructions: This is a simple T-shirt dress.  I sewed it up without looking at the instructions.  I sewed one shoulder, added neck binding, sewed other shoulder.  Then I sewed in the sleeves and added binding to the bottoms of them. After this I just sewed up the side seams and hemmed it.  It was super fast. 

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Fabric: 1.75 yards - Bright Turquoise/White 100% Cotton, Plus Sign Design, Interlock Knit – 60W; purchased Sept 2017 for $5.60 total also from Fabric Mart’s precut sale. 

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Thoughts: I made this for a nightgown, I love it for that purpose.  A few days in MeMadeMay I just wore the dress all day.  It is soft and comfortable, easy to throw on and go.  The interlock is thicker and less stretchy than most knits but it works well in this dress. I have no complaints!

Here’s an updated look at how my Spring/Summer Sewing Plan is going:

SWAP Spring 2018 updated

Monday, June 4, 2018

New Jalie Mimosa Scoopneck T-shirt 3890

Did you know that Jalie just released their new patterns?  14 to be exact! 

I was super lucky (and grateful) to be able to test some of their new patterns.  I’ll be sharing them as soon as I can get good pictures of them all (it was cold and snowy during the testing so not a good time for pictures). 

First up is a really cute new T-shirt top. 

Mimosa Scoopneck T-shirts 3890

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Size: V bust/waist to Y at hip (my exact measurements)

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Alterations: 1/4” forward shoulder (normal for me)

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Instructions: Excellent.  Jalie instructions have written steps as well as drawings for every step of the way.  They are easy and clear to understand.  You can also view them online before even purchasing the pattern. 

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Fabric: 1 yard (yes only one yard!) of "Tapestry Roses on Teal," med-weight, 4way stretch, Hacci Brushed Sweater Knit, 97% poly/3% spandex, $8.50 a yard purchased Sept 2017 from purpleseamstress

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Thoughts:
  • I really like this top. 
  • It’s roomier than I usually wear my tee’s but that is ok
  • I love that it used only 1 yard of fabric
  • I think the cuffs are fun
  • The length is perfect, not too long and not short
  • My favorite part is the curved hem
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I first attempted to make this in a drapey, heavy, rayon spandex knit and it was no good.  The material hung and grew and the shirt ended up huge looking.  I would say to definitely use the recommended fabric for this – one with a bit of structure or recovery; or I suggest to size down one if using a really drapey knit like rayon/spandex.  This sweater knit was perfect for the top.

 I was actually disappointed I couldn't wear this for MeMadeMay but we had to keep quiet on the patterns.

Sunday, June 3, 2018

MeMadeMay ~ Last week recap

May 29th - Scattered Thunderstorms, with a high of 90°F (32°C)

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May 30th - Thunderstorms, with a high of 76°F (24°C)

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May 31 - PM Thunderstorms, with a high of 81°F (27°C)

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There it is.  The final part of MeMadeMay.  I had a good time this year.  I learned quite a bit.  I'll do a follow up post soon on what I learned and so forth. I really enjoyed seeing what everyone else wore and got some great ideas for makes in the future.