Being the practical person I am, I wanted to try the top out and work out fit issues before moving on to the dress version. I've lost some weight and my previous alterations just weren't working as before.
Burda 10/2014 #103
For my muslin I traced out a 38 shoulders/bust, 40 waist, and 42 hip from a super soft, brushed rib knit fabric. This top has the envelope-look at the neck (which I love) so I didn't know how to approach a square shoulder adjustment. I just left them alone.
* added 1" to hip at back only for my large rear
* took 3" off sleeves (knew they were long going in and didn't want them that way)
When I put on my muslin the neckline was big on me. Too big. The top looked all weird. Plus there was bagginess under my arms and through the bust. I took in a TWO inch dart on the back neck and then 1/2" off the sides from armpit to waist. Tried it on again and it was much better. The sleeves are still too long and I'm not sure I like the length of the shirt.
The bad neckline. The bagginess everywhere.
Now every review states how easy this top is to sew. So I began to think "what is wrong with me" when I just could not get the neck/shoulder stitching right. My brain refused to understand what Burda wanted. "Lay back R sides together with front. Stitch upper edge of back along joining lines on front from each marking to seam #1" From each marking? so do I stitch the triangle across the shoulder part even? I thought the envelope front meant you didn't stitch the actual top shoulder. Sigh. Much frustration, seam ripping, flipping of material. Whatever - I just did it my way. I put R side front to R side back and stitched across the triangle part where it shows on the front piece there. Then I basted the armhole area. Done.
Then we come to the neck "facing". Woah. So you sew this bias strip to the neckline but only to the marks. Then you flip it to the inside and it stops just before the front piece connects. Well it's supposed to anyway. Mine was a tad short so I suggest to leave extra on neck facing until you stitch it down all the way, then clip it, it can go under the front flap.
Clearly the rest of the shirt is easy peasy once you get past the neckline. I did put the sleeves on in the flat - I don't enjoy setting in a sleeve. Also, what is up with Burda putting in 3" of ease in a knit sleeve?? THREE inches? WTH.
Fabric: Designer Brushed Baby Rib Knit Flowers Smoke, 65% poly, 35% cotton, Purchased Feb 2014 from fabric.com for $4.89/yard. Used 2 yards. Total: $9.78
I transferred all the changes to the pattern and set off again. This time with a cotton lycra fabric.
Alterations this time:
*kept 1" added to hip at back for large rear
*took an additional 3/4" off sleeves for a total of 3.75"
*took 2" dart off back neck, sloped to nothing at hem
*tapered 1/2" off armpit to waist
*reduced sleeve cap by 3/4" for a length of 17.5" instead of 19"
This time I sewed the neck with exposed bias and sewed the back crossover to the front as visible. I like this look. Reminds me of the Bronte Top.
Fabric: Heather Grey Jersey Knit, 95% cotton, 5% lycra, 9.5oz/yard. 2.25 yards purchased August 2014 at $5.50/yard from fashion fabrics club. $11.00 (did not use all the 2.25 yards though). The bias strip is a scrap from Laguna Stretch Cotton Jersey Heathered Knit Pepper, Robert Kaufman.
I was all excited and tried it on. Too tight. UGH, what the heck! Well, this fabric was considerably more stable and less stretch than the rib knit, I should have known better. The saddest part is that I am in love with this version.
Ugh. Too tight.
In all fairness the pattern says to use a "fine stretch jersey". The cowl draped way better on the rib knit, it tries to stand up on the jersey version. I'll have to think about this before I head into making the dress version.
** Thanks to Levone who pointed out to me that BurdaStyle offers a video "how to" of making this top, but in the dress version! You have to pay for the video $7.99, but it might be better to invest in a one month subscription to the videos with Burda for $19.99. **
~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~