After I sewed my first pair of these jeans in March, I wanted to sew up another pair with some tweaks to the fit.
This time I went with a straight size BB. Then I darted out 2” in the front (1/2” in two spots on the front piece for an overall 2”). I compared this to the first pair where I used a size Z in the front and the only thing different was that it gave my thighs the much needed 1/4 to 3/8” of room.
I also added 1/2” to the rise and 1” to the hem. I like my jeans loooooong.
In addition to those alterations, I took off 1/2” on each side from waist to nothing at the hip. My single most problem with RTW jeans is that I have a large butt and a small waist. I always have that dreaded huge gap at center back.
As with the first pair I used the“gaposis” fix linked in this post on the Jalie blog and took 1 inch off the waist and 1/2” off the yoke on each side for 1” total there in the back. All this waist adjustment meant I took off a total of 4 inches in the waist!
Humorously they are still loose in the waist; however, this fabric had lots more stretch than my last pair. The fabric is really soft too.
Fabric: Stretch Medium Weight Dark Denim (you can find it here); 96% Cotton 4% Lycra; it is listed as 10% stretch but it is more like 20%. I purchased this fabric in January – 2.5 yards for $19.95. It is a great weight for jeans, very soft, and easy to sew. I did make sure to prewash.
Thoughts: I really love these jeans! The fabric is soft, the stretch is the right amount. I love the length I settled on. I always wear a belt with my pants so the looser waist doesn’t bother me. I think the bias waistband is what gives me trouble. In the future I would try a pair of jeans without the bias waist. These jeans are about as close as I have ever come to a perfect pair.
Pretty inside pocket bags!
Amazingly sewn zipper fly and jean button :D
Final note: I pushed to make these jeans because I can’t stand to wear the first pair. It is my mistake and not a mistake in the pattern. When I topstitched the first pair I used a double needle – topstitching thread in both, and then regular thread in the bobbin. Well my skin is very sensitive and I can’t stand the scratchy feeling of the regular thread the way it is in the twin needle. The jeans themselves don’t want to soften up either. So they were a learning pair. I learned from that mistake and topstitched these with a single needle at 1/8” and then 1/4” – even though it takes more time and precision, I am happier in the end because the seams are soft.
I plan on wearing these until they fall apart!