Saturday, August 16, 2014

Deer & Doe and Sewaholic

I have a whole outfit to show you today!  Now that my class has finished, some stress is gone and I was able to get some sewing in.

I tried out the Deer & Doe Plantain tee and I took another crack at the Sewaholic Thurlows.


Let's talk about the Plantain first:
I traced a size 38 for the shoulders, 40 for the bust, and 44 for the hips



Adjustments:
1/2" square shoulder (normal for me)
Raised neckline by an inch


I placed these pieces over my favorite tee pattern (Ottobre 05/2013 #1) and the back looked like a great fit, the front looked a bit wider than my other one but I wanted to test it in it's true form before messing with it, so I left it as is.


I must say that the fit is awesome for only doing those 2 little alterations!  The back fits excellent and there is no neck gaping (for once!)  The hips fit great in the back and there isn't an issue with the swayback because there is enough ease to go over my rear.  The front is a bit large and drapey for what I"m used to, but that is the design of the tee. This fabric is very light and the stripes waving in the drapey front drive my ocd nuts! I think I'd be in love with it if it was a solid ;-)

I sewed the shirt with my serger and used my cover stitch for the hems.


Fabric: Designer Yarn Dye Rayon Jersey Knit Stripe Blue; 85% Rayon, 10% Polyester, 5% Lycra. It is very soft and a tad thin.  I purchased it from fabric.com in May 2014 for $3.98/yard.  The top used about 1.5 yards so the top only cost me $5.97

Verdict: I really like this top!  I will most likely make the front piece a tiny bit more narrow next time but otherwise it's great! (and it's free so win-win). I can't wait to try it in long sleeve with those cute patches!!!


Ok. Now for the Sewaholic Thurlows. . .
There are so many nice things to say about these so I'll get the one bad thing out of the way - they don't fit. They are just a tiny smidge to tight.  OMG. I can't win! lol.  My first pair was too big and this pair too small.  Over-fitting, that's all.  The crotch feels a bit snug and I have whiskers in the front.



On to the good:
I still love the all the details in these.  This time the steps took a tiny bit less than 6 hours and it was easier going.  I followed Lladybird's sew a long again for these.
I love how these fit and look.  I know they are too tight but man they look so RTW!  I also love how they fit my rear and I only have a tiny, tiny bit of gaping in the back.



Alterations:
I took 1/4" out of each side in the back, but then only sewed with 1/4" SA so it was a wash there.
Because of the bagginess in the front last time, I took out a 1" dart at the top, tapering to 0 at the bottom of the shorts - from each side, so 2" total out of the front. I adjusted the waistband to fit this as well so 2" out.



I sewed these up mostly with my vintage Kenmore that I got from goodwill. OMG I am falling more and more in love with this machine.  This is the first project I've sewn on it.  The flexibility to start, stop, and reverse at my whim was awesome.  The machine sewed over many thick seams without one flinch.  I got to use the buttonhole attachment - that really blew my mind and was so fun.  Ah! I love it.



Fabric: It came labeled as Jade Green Floral Twill but the selvage tells me it is "Valori Wells Sole' Home Dec Fabric, Agapantha in Aqua." It was cheap so I don't mind and it sewed beautifully. I picked it up from FashionFabricsClub.com in May 2014 for $5.45/yard.  We will say I used 2 yards, only because I don't remember and that is what the pattern calls for.  So $10.90 total.



Verdict: I really had a blast sewing these shorts up and I was able to practice some pretty hard techniques in the process (I'm looking at you double welts!).  I'm sad they are too tight - I mean, I can't even sit down in them! lol. However, this fabric has ZERO stretch so I'll take that into account. Anyway I'll have at the pattern again sometime after I've had a break from it.
Next time I will need to address my large front thighs and look at a large rear adjustment.  the shorts are pulling toward the front right now at the side seams (because of the thighs). Eh, it was worth all the effort as I enjoyed myself.


August Totals:
(stash is anything purchased before this year)
Stash used: 7/8 yards
Fabric Out: 5 5/8 yards
Fabric In: 0 yards

Totals for the year to date:
Stash sew this year: 35.75 yards
Fabric out in 2014: 133 yards
Fabric in 2014: 141.25 yards

~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~

22 comments:

  1. I LOVE your new outfit!

    Darn those pants :/

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  2. I have not even yet tried pants or shorts, so I applaud you! I also love that plantain; I've downloaded it but haven't made it up yet.

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    1. Thanks Angela! You should try the tee - it's great!

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  3. Kristin you look lovely I can see you are happier! It's such a shame about the shorts because they are perfect - fabric and construction. You will just have to spend whole days standing up! I think you used the right weight jersey for the unfitted shape of the t-shirt. I like the colour combo, too!

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    1. Thanks Philippa, it depresses me a little because they are perfect! Back to the drawing board I go... I guess I'm learning each time so that is a good thing!

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  4. The Plantain looks great! Can't beat free.;)

    The finishes on the shorts are fabulous as is the stitching. That's too bad that they are too snug. I love the color and print of the shorts. They look fab paired with the tee.:)

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    1. Lol, no you can't beat free :D I didn't have high expectations but it came out so nice. Thanks Cindy!

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  5. Love your tee and shorts.. That fabric is gorgeous..

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  6. Kristin - one way to look at it is you have all the construction steps NAILED for the Thurlow shorts, and now all you need to do is concentrate on getting the fit correct. Sarah Veblen claims it can take 8-10 muslins to get pants to fit well. So stick with it, and you will overcome your fitting issues. SOOOOOO close! And do remember that different fabrics will always cause minor adjustments - even after "perfecting" your fit!! Great job on both of these!

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    1. Thank you Maris! I think I really do have them nailed now, which is awesome. 8-10, wow! I'm halfway there, lol. I already have another muslin lined up and I picked up another fitting book. Wish me luck!

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  7. Love how the shorts look! The construction and finishing looks just awesome :) Well done, Kristin!

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    1. Thank you Siri! Just in time for cold weather... lol

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  8. WOW! I love this entire outfit. It's too bad the shorts are a little snug, but you cannot tell that at all from the pictures. They look amazing and those welt pockets are to perfection!

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    1. Thanks Shirley! I really do too. I am terrible about matching things up and when these two fabrics landed together I was like "Oh! Sweet!" I'll keep trying

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  9. Those shorts are amaze balls, you have sold me that pattern!

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    1. Haha Thanks Nicole! You won't regret the pattern. And I'm just soooo close to that great fit!

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  10. Wow, those welts look perfect. So sorry they don't fit (I always do that!!) After a while, you WILL get a collection of pants and shorts that fit well, thought.

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    1. Thanks Joy! I was so proud of them! I will keep trying, I know I'm getting close. I can't wait to get the right result though!

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  11. Your top and shorts look wonderful!! Did you need to alter the shorts anymore for being swayback? That is what I am working on adjusting today as I cut out the second version.

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    1. Hi Jennifer, with the Thurlows you sew up the back crotch and waistband seam last so you can alter the curve of it for swayback all in one swoop :) I didn't do anything other than that last fitting. Thanks!

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