Sunday, October 6, 2013

Jalie 2805 vs. Ottobre 05/2013 #1A

A face off of two long-sleeve shirt patterns.  Which one is better? Which one wins?
Ottobre 05/2013 out of blue knit stripe. Jalie 2805 out of red knit stripe


For both shirts I went with my measurements.
In Ottobre this meant size 40 for bust, waist, and then 44 for hips
In Jalie this meant "U" for bust, "T" for waist, and then "X" for hips


For both shirts I completed my square shoulder adjustment and sloped 1/2" out of the back neck area.
In Ottobre I forgot to slope 1/2" out of the front neck. doh!
In Jalie I remembered to slope 1/2" out of the front neck. 


For both shirts I sewed them the same way. 
* Twill tape in shoulders. sewed both shoulders first.
* Same gray rib binding for necks attached in the round
* Same gray thread for topstitching
* Sleeves basted in with sewing machine before serging
* Serged all seams
* Reinforced armpit areas by sewing a straight stitch within the serged stitch.
* Sewed sleeve hems before sewing sleeve sides
* Attached sleeve flat and then sewed sleeve side and shirt side all in one.
* Wonder Tape for sleeve and bottom hems.


Differences:
Ottobre fits looser.  
Neckline is lower and more open. 
Hem is not straight but in a U shape front and back
White Serger thread used
Took almost 2 hours to sew

Jalie fits very snug
Neckline higher
Shaped more - fits nicer over bust, waist, hip
Hem is straight
Black Serger thread used
Took 1.5 hours to sew


Fabric:
Ottobre: 2 yards of shiny turquoise and gray striped knit.  
Lightweight and somewhat see-through.  
Picked up at Hancock just Friday. $13.98 total. 
used almost all of it. 

Jalie: 1.5 yards of a red/gray/black/tan stripe knit
nice medium weight
Picked up at Hancock a bit ago on the $3.95/yard table. $5.93 total
just managed to eek out the pieces. had to tilt the sleeves. used all of it



Likes:
Ottobre: nice loose fit. 
Sleeves weren't tight this time around
LOVE the tiny pocket!! 

Jalie: nice slim but shapely fit
Higher neckline



Dislikes:
Ottobre: 
neckline really low (and loose but that is my fault)
I don't like the "U" shaped bottom hem.  It was really hard to do with the knit fabric

Jalie: 
Tight sleeves!! OMG let my arms breathe!

So there you have it. The winner? There really isn't a clear winner. I do like some things about both and dislike a few things about both too.  I guess it depends on what style I feel like wearing slim, or loose.
And now I have 2 cute long sleeve shirts to hang out in just in time for fall!

~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~

15 comments:

  1. The Jalie is waaaay more becoming to you. Just compare the fit of the back in the two patterns.

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  2. Fit is such a personal thing. Your figure looks great in the Jalie top, but I always reach for the most comfortable pieces in my wardrobe and I like a lower neckline on my figure! You could say you have two lovely new tops for whatever you feel like on any given day :) btw that issue of Ottobre is my favourite, so thank you for the review!

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    1. I agree on the fit being personal. My mood changes daily on slim fit or loose. Thanks! And yes, it is definitely my favorite Ottobre issue! I plan on making almost all of it... hopefully!!

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  3. What an awesome sew-off - and post! I really like the fit of the Jalie on you (also, terrific stripe matching!!), and I also see what you're saying about the Ottobre neckline. It's very flattering.

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    1. aww. Thanks! The stripe matching on the Jalie was purely coincidental as I was working with such a tight fabric requirement! ;-)

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  4. What a great post! I tend to go back and forth between these two also. Jalie does have a nice shape to it, but comfort is also nice. I guess it just depends on the mood of the morning. :)

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    1. Thanks Shirley Ann. I think many of us bounce between Jalie, Ottobre, and perhaps Burda. They are much better than the big 4 that is for sure! Thanks for the comment!

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  5. Very interesting comparison! I actually quite like the shaped hem on the Otto, but you wouldn't want that on every shirt. The Jalie has a very flattering shape to it, but the Otto is certainly not unflattering. I guess it's nice to have both the slim and less-slim fitting in your closet, for whatever mood you're in at the moment.

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    1. Thanks Joy! I knew I had to do both at once to really compare them. The hem on Otto is cute but hard to do with the wonder tape. I would much prefer basting and pressing perhaps? I just worry my hem would turn out wonky - santa needs to bring me a coverstitch ;-)
      I was surprised to see I like them both. I thought I'd much prefer one over the other.

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  6. I know I'd be wearing both! Did you compare the patterns to see where the differences are originating? I have to say I'm pretty happy with the fit of the new Otto T. I find it comfotable and flattering and I was almost hoping it would be a looser fit. It's almost harder to find a good fit with ease than a good fit in a body conscious top like the Jalie. I haven't made their T but I have found their fit to be much more sporty and close fitting. I particularly notice it when I make their patterns for the kids, I always cut based on their height and don't do any slimming based on other measurements. I also really like the shaped hem on the Otto, I agree with Joy, it's mostly the variety that's nice about it but it is flattering. I don't have a coverstitch, it just depends on the fabric, but some press and hem well even without stabilizing. MIne were lightweight cotton jersey.

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    1. Thanks! I didn't compare the patterns originally although I knew going in that the Jalie would be slim fitting because I've made one for my DD before and I made the tunic version of the Ottobre shirt so I assumed it would fit like the tunic. I was surprised that the Ottobre was as loose as it was because the tunic was not - and I did compare the sleeves to both patterns because I thought about widening the Jalie ones as they looked very slim. (should have went with my gut and widened them!). The new Otto issue is my favorite thus far - I hope to sew through it. And yes, I agree it is harder to find a good fit with ease and I will be keeping this Otto T on my TNT list :)
      Thanks for the wonderful comment and tips :D

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  7. I agree that they each have their merits...one is a more casual silhouette; the other is more fitted. They look great on you! Thanks for linking up!

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  8. Your sewing on the neckbands is so neat - looks just like RTW. I hope I can get mine this neat - I'm about to sew my first knit top.

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