Friday, October 30, 2015

Burda 12/2009 #121 Henley–Fall Sewing


I’m doing a terrible job this year in the Burda Sewing challenge.  Don’t get me wrong, I love tons of Burda patterns, and I have a ton of magazines; it is just that I seem to reach for other things first and Burda gets put on the back burner.  However, I put this Henley on my Fall Sewing List and am happy I was able to push myself to sew it up. 

henley line drawing

The problem I have with Burda patterns is that the shoulder area does not fit my body right.  They have super high sleeve caps and this never looks right on me.  When I traced this Henley, it was no different.  I knew I should have altered the sleeve cap right then and there but I was too excited lazy and wanted to get to sewing it up. However, After I attached the sleeves and tried the top on before hemming, I knew I would have to unpick all my serging and lower that sleeve cap.  I ended up bringing it down about an inch.  I used Joy’s method (21wale) and it worked great.

Here we have the “before” pic with the terrible sleeve cap and looseness allover
henley bad combine

 I sewed a size 42 in Shoulder/Bust/Waist to a 44 at the hip.  I added a 1/2” square shoulder adjustment like I always do as well as a 1/2” sway back adjustment. 

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My fabric is a super drapey, soft rayon jersey.  When I first tried it on, it was big all over, like super big.  I ended up taking in 1/2” at each side seam for a total of 2” from bust to hip.  It is comfortably loose now, not overly loose.  I had to shorten the shirt 1.5 inches on the bottom and sleeve hems – they were so long!

henley1

I used the placket instructions from Jalie 2562.  I was super careful to line up those stripes! I made the inside placket all gray.  I also used 5 “smoke” colored snaps from SnapSource.  I like how they go well with both the navy stripe and the gray stripe.  My shoulders have stay tape to prevent stretching (because I despise how clear elastic feels, it is itchy!). 

henley2

Fabric: 2 yards of Navy Gray Stripe Rayon Jersey Knit.  I picked it up May of 2015 from FabricMart for $4.80 total.  Open-mouthed smile  The snaps cost $1.65 for the 5.  Total for the shirt: $6.45!  I have about a Fat Half of this fabric left and it is so soft and luscious.  I may be able to make Miss K something from it.

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Another Fall Sewing item checked off the list

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Now on to the next!

henley5

Brrr.  It's pretty chilly and windy out today.  Sadly my pictures will have to move indoors again.

10 comments:

  1. Nice work! I did a similar sleeve head adjustment on my recent jacket and it makes such a difference! I think it will probably become a standard adjustment for me.

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    1. Thanks Gail! It really does make a big difference, even a little adjustment. I'll be using it on all my Burdas from now on :D

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  2. Those stripes! I had to scroll back up and say, oh yeah, there IS a placket!

    It looks great on you!!

    I have a bunch of Burda planned for November. Let's see if it all gets done :)

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    1. lol I love all things stripes :D Thanks Nakisha! Good luck with your Burdas!

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  3. You totally saved this blouse!! I'm super impressed. It is hard to want to take out sleeves and redo them. It's hard to want to unpick anything ha ha. Seeing your beautiful countryside makes me miss home. No more farm road pics for me but instead a wooden fence in a backyard....wishing I had your background! :)

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    1. Thank you Shirley! I agree, unpicking serged seams are terrible. I try to avoid that at all costs. We are very rural here ;-) I used to hate it growing up but now I wouldn't want it any other way. Maybe someday you can go back to country :)

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  4. Great job! It looks perfect! I have no such patience with knits... I've sewn two t-shirts, and they have wrinkles everywhere *sigh* I don't own a serger, but thinking of getting one. Maybe then I will produce knitwear that can actually leave the house :D

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    1. hahaha. you made me laugh Siri. I have no patience for many woven's! I think knits are so easy to make. You should invest in a serger. it changes your sewing forever :) Thanks!

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  5. It looks good. It was worth changing the shoulders, it's the kind of thing I would wear until worn out!! x

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