Let's talk pants. They are not hard to sew, but time consuming. They look great when executed right; but they are just so darn hard to fit correctly!! I have been struggling with finding a good pants pattern for awhile now. I thought I would share my recent
My main problem is the crotch curve and thighs. I know, I know, that is like the major part of fitting pants. I have a small waist, very large hips/rear, and
So here is my recent work on 3 different pants patterns. I'll give my thoughts on each one.
Kwik Sew 3193: Size L waist, to XL elsewhere. These are more “trousers” than pants so the fit will be a bit different. They are higher rise than I like. My fabric has some stretch.
Jalie 3461 Eleanor: I really, really wanted these to work. This is the look I was going for. Per my measurements I should go with a “V” at the waist to an “AA” elsewhere which I did. My fabric was the right stretch, too. I could barely put these suckers on. Super tight. *Shakes fist at those who had this pattern work “right out of the envelope”*
Ottobre 02/2013 #5/6: My butt looks the saggiest in these. After seeing these pictures I threw away this muslin and the traced pattern. I will not proceed with these! Size Waist 44 to 48 elsewhere. This fabric has some stretch.
Jalie: wrinkles, wrinkles, wrinkles. Way too tight. Do my knees knock together or am I just standing weird?
Ottobre: Saggy butt. Knee, thigh, and under rear issues.
And the front views:
Kwik Sew: front looks ok, though the tights need some work.
Jalie: Still tight. Front crotch hanging too low causing frown lines. Pulling across hips. Knee issues.
Ottobre: Not good, but not terrible. Knee issues, hip/thigh issues. Weird crotch issue trying to form a camel toe.
Kwik Sew: From the side these look ok. The outer seam is mostly straight, though tilted back on top and forward in front slightly.
Jalie: Wowza. My waist to thigh bump looks horrible. The outer seam is pulling to the back on top. Wrinkles on the thigh to knee.
Ottobre: *shakes head* Just wrong. outer seam pulls to rear on top. waist, rear, thigh, knee wrinkles.
So there you have it. Pictures speak volumes when fitting. I will probably continue to tweak the Kwik Sew pattern to get a good trouser pant out of it. The front side seems very loose on me, but overall the issues are manageable. I would love to get the Jalie pattern to work but I’m pushing at the very top size on the pattern – which is disheartening! I wear a size 14 in RTW pants right now and the Jalie pattern goes up to a 22 in women, you would not think I’d be at the edge of the size chart. I may or may not try it in the largest size at a later time.
How do you fit your pants? Do you tissue fit? Muslin? or sew straight out of the envelope? If you are pear shaped like me, have you had success with a certain pattern?
~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~