Sewing Swimsuits;The Story of 12 Swims Sewn- part 2

Continuing on with my 12 swims sewn; you can see part 1 here.

Kwik Sew 3238

My measurements at this time:

High bust: 37    Bust: 39

Waist: 31.5     Hip: 46

date started: 08/01/19 date finished: 08/02/19

size sewn: M bust, L waist, XL hip (sizing bust was in between M and L so I sized down, waist and hip were exact)

alterations: added 2” to the hem because it looked short. Added 1/4” to the sides of the tank bottom because it looked too tight.

Fabric: Purple swim panel $4.25/yard that I purchased in July 2016 from Hancock's going out of business sale; And Black Swim that I have no clue where or when I purchased.

Notes: The instructions on this pattern are fantastic and it sews up very nice.  Even though I added to the hem the top was still very short.  It also pulls up in center front so it feels weird.  There isn’t enough support in the back to keep the CF in place.  The bust darts are too pointy.  I really liked this top and was a bit sad it didn’t work out. 

 Jalie 3022 and 3351 Mashup

My measurements at this time:

Waist: 31.5     Hip: 46

date started and finished: 08/01/19

size sewn: Z waist and BB Hip (sized up 3 waist sizes higher and exact hip)

alterations: I added 1” to the hem from the shorts line.  I added 1/4” to each leg out and inseam. 

Fabric: Black Swim that I have no clue where or when I purchased.

What I did was take the Z waist and briefs from pattern 3351 and attached it to the Z waist and BB hip from 3022.  It fit perfectly without any other changes.

Thoughts:  I love these!  The 3022 are my favorite pants to wear ever and I made them as swim shorts for my mom waaay back in Jan 2016.  So I figured it was time for me to make some for myself.  They worked great in the pool. 

 Here is the suit I finally settled on for this summer.  It worked well.  I loved the shorts in the water especially. They stayed put the whole time.

I also made Miss K a new suit.  I sewed her up a quick new rash guard because her other top wasn’t fitting anymore.

Jalie 3668 Valerie Rash guard 

Her measurements: 34 bust, 27 waist, 39 hip.  Size Sewn: T bust/waist to a W hip.

It fit great!  She requested a longer hem next time.

Fabric: Purple swim from Hancock’s going out of business sale; Rainbow Tie-Dye Swimwear Knit from FabricMart.  I purchased this in May 2015 for $4.80. I used the tie dye from her old swim top, just cut it up. (totally just realized I never posted her suit I sewed up in 2017 ).

Here is a picture of the old swim set, I don’t think I ever even got a full picture of it.

(picture from 2017)

I used this pattern to make her another set of swims this summer, too.  (The blues do match, the top was just wet here). 

This time with Blue Swim and Pixel mountains.  Blue Swim was: Lake Blue Poly/Lycra from FabricMart.  Purchased in May 2017 for $4.80 for 1.5 yards. The Pixels was 1 yard purchased
in May 2017 for $13 from SpandexWorld. Excellent quality swim knit.

I made the hem 1” longer. I fully line the front so I make the liner 1” shorter and use a 3/4” hem.  This turned out to be a perfect suit for her and she used it all summer.

With the Blue rash guard I made her
Jalie 3351 Swim shorts in size V to match.

Adjustments: I took 1/2” off the waistband and facings. I did 1/2” hem and used the elastics for size V

Everything was perfect.  K would like 1/2” off the top of the shorts rise next time too.

 I attempted to make her Jalie 2563 as swim shorts first.

Size V.  Also with the blue swim and pixel mountains.  It turned out way too tight and she was not having it, so I went back to my tried-and-true swim pattern for her with the 3351 shorts.

Here is an picture of the elusive Miss K in her new swims.

 We had a pretty good summer this year.  I am sad to see it end.

 Here are the previous suits I’ve made Miss K over the years:  Jun 2014 Jalie 3023 and 3351, Feb 2015 Kwik Sew and Jalie, May 2015 florals, Jun 2015 Jalie 2805 and 3351,  Aug 2016 Jalie 3351 and 2805, also Jalie 3247 and Suat Brazi for
her friend. As well as the ones I forgot to blog from last year (oops)

 

 

 

 

More of Jalie 3022 Yoga Pants

Probably one of my most used patterns.  Definitely one of my most worn pants throughout the years.  I first sewed this pattern in Dec 2014 and I continue to sew it as my weight changes and the fabric wears out.  (Currently I’ve gained a bit of weight as I’ve found a few more things to eat recently).
Here are the seven pairs I made prior to these new 2 pairs (sewing these new ones brings my total up to using this pattern NINE times).  1. Black plain  2. Hunter Green 3. Green Shorts 4. Teal Pants 5. Black and White  6. Black for Miss K  7. Navy Cotton Lycra

First up: Black Yoga Pants

Size: My measurements at this time (waist 32, hip 46) put me in a size W waist and BB hip.  But these fit tight so I sized up to a Waist Z, Hip CC.  That’s one up in the hip and 3 up in the waist.
Alterations: curved the back crotch more at the lower butt by 1/2”. Added 1” to the Hem



Instructions: The instructions are fantastic.  At this point in sewing them so much I rarely have to look at them, but I do glance from time to time – especially for the waistband part.  Nothing is hard to sew though.

Fabric: 2 yards Double Brushed Yoga Knit – Heavy (though it doesn’t feel heavy) from Knitpop for $9.50/yard so $19 total.



Thoughts: Love, love, love.  I love everything about these. They are soft, they feel like I’m wearing pajamas.  The fabric is amazing.  These things are perfect. (These were sewn April 18th, 2019 and I’ve worn them a ton of times since).

 

Next time: Need to lower the center front rise by 1”.  It sometimes bothers my stomach to have the waistband so high.

Next: Navy Yoga Pants

Size: It’s hard to say because of my alterations below.  I started with Waist Z and Hip CC but after my alterations this made the front hip increase by 0.25” and the back hip increase by 1.25”!  The thigh measurements remained the same.  My measurements at this time (waist 32, hip 46) put me in a size W waist and BB hip.  But these fit tight so I sized up to a Waist Z, Hip CC.  That’s one up in the hip and 3 up in the waist, and then did the alterations on top of this.



Alterations:  I put my beloved Burda yoga pant pattern (11/2007 #122) on top of the Jalie pattern and used the crotch curve and hip from the Burda for these. I also used 32” for the waistband elastic. 
Instructions: same as above (The instructions are fantastic.  At this point in sewing them so much I rarely have to look at them, but I do glance from time to time – especially for the waistband part.  Nothing is hard to sew though).

Fabric: 2 yards Navy 4-way stretch Ponte (this stuff is heavy) from Knitpop; purchased in April 2017 for $5.10 per yard, so $10.20 total.



Thoughts: eh.  I’m not really happy with my alterations – they make the pants feel weird.  Also, the ponte is too heavy and the seams feel large, not comfortable.  They are a bit loose on me too and this pattern is made to be tight fitting.  The view from the backside is not a good one; I don’t think I’ll get much wear out of these. (These were sewn May 7th, 2019 and I attempted to wear them one time but couldn’t handle the scratchy feel of the ponte or seams).

Not everything I sew is going to work out.  I'm glad I tried this alteration, but I know now that it doesn’t work out.  So into the wastebasket it goes!

Happy Sewing! 

Kristin

Sewing with a Plan ~ Renfrew and Jalie Yoga Pants

Sewaholic Renfrew 1201



I’ve made the renfrew many times, and I love almost all of them.  This one is no exception. This would be my sixth Renfrew to date (not counting the mini one I made for Miss K).

1. Elephants  2. birds  3. Gray  4. Skater Mashup  5. Sweetheart Mashup



Size and adjustments:   8 for shoulders and bust, 10 for waist, 12 for hips. This is 2 sizes smaller than my measurements for the shoulders/bust and one size smaller for the waist hips.  I find the renfrew to fit very well but the pattern runs just 1 or 2 sizes big.
1/2" square shoulder adjustment.  1/2" forward shoulder adjustment.



Fabric: 2 yards brushed sweater knit in Navy blue, purchased in an auction box from Knitpop in October 2016. $11.40 total after shipping. This fabric is super soft and feels so good to wear.
Thoughts: I love this top!  It’s soft, blue, and has a cowl – 3 of my favorite things!



Jalie 3022 Yoga Pants



Size:   waist “X” and my hip “BB” – these are each 2 sizes above my real measurements as Jalie runs slim. I added an inch to the length because all my other ones seem to shrink up in the dryer and are eventually an inch too short.  This would be my 7th pair of these pants!

1. Black plain  2. Hunter Green 3. Green Shorts 4. Teal Pants 5. Black and White  6. Black for Miss K



Fabric: 2 yards 10oz Navy Cotton Lycra Knit from Stylish fabrics. Purchased September 2016 for $13.80 specifically for these pants.



Thoughts: I love this pattern.  This is my go-to for pants. I can wear them around the house in comfort and also out to run quick errands, pick up the kids, go to doctor appts, etc.  They fit so nicely.

 
Sewing Plan updat
Below is my sewing plan for Jan-April.  The renfrew and yoga pants are finished.  On to something else!



Happy Sewing!
Kristin

Polo Shirts and Yoga Pants

I started working on these polo shirts back on Sept 14th but then left them to work on other things. Way back in Nov 2013 when I had a wadder of a Polo Dress (Burda pattern) and wanted to revisit it.  The fabric  for the dress was a Lacoste knit with hardly any stretch and the dress had drag lines all over it.  This time I retraced the pattern to a top and sewed up a muslin with red cotton lycra fabric. As you can see from the pictures below, the fit was still terrible.  The placket instructions were equally horrid. 








So I scrapped this red one and went to work on another Polo shirt, same pattern, with more adjustments in a Black Cotton Lycra. I used the instructions from my Reader’s Digest Complete Sewing Guide for the placket; It did not turn out well.  The placket was terrible and the fit was bad.  I didn’t even bother to capture pictures of it.  I gave up on the Burda pattern, I even threw out my traced pattern, but I still wanted a polo shirt. 

I settled on Jalie 2562.  They always have such great instructions.  I cut a size “V” for everything except the hips which I cut to a size “Z”.  I made a 1/2” swayback adjustment, 1/2” square shoulder adjustment, and 1/2” forward shoulder adjustment (all of these are usual for me).

The first go at the pattern I sewed a beautiful placket, all perfect. Then realized I attached it to the BACK!!! omg.  So I lined up the front pattern piece to the back messed up piece of fabric and adjusted the back to be a front - only with a shorter placket, and then cut out a new back.  The placket is tiny on it but I still love it. 



There are a few drag lines still, but I can live with them.  If you can’t see, that is Pac-Man fabric on my collar I used 3 black snaps on this placket.



Fabric: 1.5 yards purchased the day before I sewed it.  Blue Cotton Lycra from Wal-Mart. $8.96 total.  Pac man fabric is a woven from Timeless Treasures, now out of print. The placket and collar are interfaced.



The shirt has a nice collar stand, I’ve popped it up here.



Happy with the fit, I wanted to perfect my placket making skill just a tad more so I cut out and sewed a second polo shirt.  I like this one even more. Still with Jalie 2562, same everything as the blue one.



4 white snaps were used on the placket of this shirt. This placket is the correct size ;-)



Fabric: 1 and 3/8 yard of Black/White Floral Jersey Knit purchased July 2015 from Fashionfabricsclub for $5 total. 97% Cotton, 3% Lycra.  I used scraps of White Cotton Lycra for the placket and collar, both are interfaced as well.





I am satisfied with my placket making to move on to my fall sewing list, my henley is already cut out and waiting to be sewn! 



And those pants I’m wearing?  They are my latest Jalie 3022 Yoga pants.  Size: waist “X” and my hip “BB” – these are each 2 sizes above my real measurements as Jalie runs slim.  I used a bit of the black/white fabric for the band at the waist.  These are such comfortable pants, I spend many days wearing these and my other teal pair.  Sadly, this fabric is not good quality and has pilled after one wash.  So I must re-make these again! Ugh!





These pants do not sew up that fast because there is so much topstitching involved, yet I reach for them all the time so I am pushed to make more.  These were on my Fall Sewing List.

Fabric: 2 yards Black Cotton Lycra, Purchased August 2015 for $13 total.  This fabric is toted to be great quality, medium weight from Girl Charlee.  Sadly they are thin and pill right away, therefore not great quality.  Plus, it took 2 weeks to get to me!  I will no longer buy from there but will return to getting my good cotton lycra from Purpleseamstress who ships to me within 3 days.
Sewing Time for pants: 2 hours

Jalie 3022 Shorts and Pants

So I’ve been working on a pair of shorts for 2 or 3 weeks now and having fit issues.  *shakes fist at fit issues* 

I’m consulting many fit books and I’m up to 5 muslins.  Whew.  I’m not giving up.
I have been feeling discouraged though.  One hot night when I was particularly down on myself I had a light bulb moment. Why not make some quick gratification shorts from a pattern I love and that I know fits well?  Something comfortable to get me through some hot days until I can conquer the woven shorts pattern.

And so it was.  I have made Jalie 3022 4 other times (once for K, three times for me) and I love them.  These pants fit awesome and the seaming makes any backside look amazing. My black pair fits so comfy and was made from interlock from JoAnn’s but is piling horribly. My second pair was a failed mess of cotton velour with not enough stretch. The third pair, green, from cotton lycra is just too tight right now.  Because I was sewing with cotton lycra this time I decided to re-trace the pattern in a bigger size and use the shorts line.  I upped my waist to a size “X” and my hip to a “BB” – these are each 2 sizes above my real measurements. 



I was in a hurry to have these sewn up so I didn’t topstitch the shorts.  They came together quickly and I was happy to find them fitting nicely. 



I used the scraps from my green pair of pants to sew up these shorts – they take so little fabric!  It is Forest Green cotton lycra with Jade cotton lycra for the band.



With shorts like these you wonder, will they ride up?  Sadly, the legs do tend to ride up, but only when I’m bending down, squatting, or moving my legs a lot, LOL. Most shorts from the store do this too so I’m not too concerned.  They were amazing to sleep in when it was hot and I look forward to wearing them around the house and yard with the kids this summer.

In Wisconsin our weather flips flops from hot to cold all the time so I also made another pair of pants with this pattern, since the first 3 are out of commission.  I used the same sizes as the shorts, X in waist, BB in hip and below. 


Sewing these is a bit time consuming because of all the topstitching but it is worth it.  This pair of pants doesn’t disappoint!  I love them and they will get lots of wear.



Fabric: 2 yards of Teal Cotton lycra  from purpleseamstressfabric.com for the pants $13, and scraps of my Laguna Stretch Cotton Jersey in Heathered Knit Pepper by Kaufman, for the band contrast.



It was nice to take a break from fitting stress and sew up something fast and rewarding. Now back to the fitting!

Jalie 3024 and Jalie 3022 ~ Yoga Outfit

This year I hope to take part in more contest on Pattern Review.  I feel it helps motivate me to sew things that I might just leave on the back burner.  Right now PR is running an activewear contest. Perfect excuse for me to get a new yoga outfit whipped up.

Originally I had tried to re-make my loved Jalie 3022 pants in cotton velour, but..... they were so tight I couldn't barely get them on. It really bothers me to have to throw out a make, too.  I even sized up one size but I guess I should have gone up more because the velour didn't have as much stretch as my first pair.

So I moved forward with a cotton lycra pair of pants and tank for my outfit.  (sorry, indoor pics because WI weather is cold!)

Jalie 3024 is a cute pattern for dresses.  You can sew a tank dress plain, or with a crossover, as well as a kimono sleeved boat neck dress.  I thought this pattern would be great for summer dresses for both K and myself.

I used Jade cotton lycra for the top with a Forest Green band. I purchased it from purpleseamstress. 1 yard, $6.50.

I read the instructions and new I would sew up the tank differently.  There is nothing wrong with the Jalie instructions but I have to bind in the flat with my attachment and I like sewing things in the flat whenever I can. :)

• First I sewed one shoulder and then attached my neck and one armpit binding with my binder attachment.  
• Second I sewed the other shoulder and then attached the second armpit binding. 
• Third I attached each band to the top, in the flat.
• Fourth I attached each "skirt" (bottom) panel to the bands, in the flat. 
• Fifth I sewed up each side. 
• And finally, I hemmed.  

The tank was a very fast sew.

Adjustments: 1/4" square shoulder. That's it!  Size: neck/shoulders a T, bust/waist a U, and sloping out to an X for the hip. I made the skirt panel 11" and it was perfect length.

Fit: It fits well!  I like it a lot.  The neck/shoulders are just a smidge big but not bad at all. I can't wait to make some dresses from this pattern!

This is the third time I have made Jalie 3022.  I love the first pair but the fabric is piling.  The second pair I talked about above with the failed cotton velour.

I used Forest Green cotton lycra with Jade for the band. I also purchased this from purpleseamstress. 2 yards, $13.

I followed the directions for the most part.  I like to do my topstitching right after I sew the seam instead of all of it at step 7.  Topstitching is boring so I would not enjoy it if I had to do it all at once!  And there is a lot of topstitching on these pants.

My measurements put me in a Size X (11) hip and T (7) waist but Jalie is always snug so I bumped up to a Size Z (13) waist V (9).   The back pants panel is split into two and creates a super nice curve that hugs the rear end.  Despite the topstitching these go together relatively fast.  There is also elastic in the waistband which I prefer more than just a cotton/lycra band.

(back view)

My tank ended up a smidge too big, and these pants ended up a smidge too tight! lol.  It's ok though.  My weight goes up and down like a yo-yo with my health so I'm sure they will be less tight in a week as I'm on the upper end of that yo-yo right now.  I'm very happy with them and they are so comfortable. Total for the outfit: $19.50

I also have some swim suits sewn up for K and a few other things, but I'll share those a different day :)

~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~