Friday, September 30, 2022

P4P Essentials Tank and 3 M4M Milas

  Pattern: Patterns for Pirates – Essentials Tank IMG_0969 Made previously: Black with green plaid (apr2017), as well as 3 for Miss K (Pink: jan2017, teal: jun2017, & space dye: dec2016), and a Plain black for me (jun2019). IMG_1072 Measurements at this time:

high bust 39 inches

bust 42 inches

waist 37 inches

hip 48.5 inches

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I started sewing this 07/16/22 and finished the same day

Size: XL for my bust graded to XXL hip

IMG_0977 Adjustments: I made 1/2-inch forward shoulder adjustment IMG_1089 Fabric: a red cotton lycra from purple seamstress, I added the doxie graphic with my silhouette cameo. It fits me well. it says Ew, people with the dogs running away IMG_1074 Thoughts: It is really long, like 2 inches too long. I don't remember my other one’s being this long or maybe my style has changed. Other than the length I really like it but then again, I've made this in the past many times and liked it. I used to think this was the perfect tank. It is fitted at the bust but then has this nice flare toward the hips. Perfect for us Pear-shaped people. This is a hip friendly pattern. There was a perfect amount of looseness over the stomach and hips so that I’m totally comfortable. However now I have a thyroid belly and find it is a bit tighter on the stomach than I like. I will need to grade out just a little more for the stomach now. I used to be hour glass shaped and P4P patterns certainly cater to that shape. IMG_0978 20220716_203408 Pattern: Made for Mermaids – Mila Shorts 20220625_195225 Made previously: blue floral, these are my favorite Measurements at this time:

high bust 39 inches

bust 42 inches

waist 36 inches

hip 48.5 inches

I started sewing this 06/25/22 and finished the same day

Size: Green for the Waist, graded to Yellow for the Hip; I picked the 4.5” inseam option

20220625_193407 Adjustments:

½” butt scoop that is common for me

I used the faced elastic waist (33” long of ¼” wide elastic).

I sewed at a ¼” Seam Allowance on the sides to accommodate my recent weight gain (lazy shortcut instead of tracing a new size) but kept ½” Seam Allowance elsewhere (crotch seams and waist to waistband).

IMG_1120 Fabric: Blue Crosses Scraps from my Ottobre T shirt Dress made back in May 2018 (Ottobre 02/2017 #11), and Greenish Ponte scraps from Jalie pants muslin made in Dec 2019.  I just love using up every bit of a fabric yard Open-mouthed smile it makes my frugal heart so happy. IMG_1125 Thoughts: I love them but the interlock and Ponte makes them snug. They are just a slight bit too snug for me right now. I need to drop about 10lbs an they will be perfect. They will wait for me. 20220625_193113 Pattern: Made for Mermaids – Mila Shorts 20220715_184243 Made previously: blue floral, these are my favorite, and the blue crosses above Measurements at this time:

high bust 39 inches

bust 42 inches

waist 37 inches

hip 48.5 inches

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I started sewing these two 07/15/22 and finished them the same day

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Size: Green for the Waist, graded to Yellow for the Hip; I picked the 4.5” inseam option

IMG_1083 Adjustments: Same as above:

½” butt scoop that is common for me

I used the faced elastic waist (32” long of ¼” wide elastic).

I sewed at a ¼” Seam Allowance on the sides to accommodate my recent weight gain (lazy shortcut instead of tracing a new size), but kept ½” Seam Allowance elsewhere (crotch seams and waist to waistband).

IMG_1099 Fabric: Grey Ponte scraps from Simplicity 1068 made Aug 2015 with a black DBP waistband. And the second pair was Black and red double brushed poly roses, scraps from a scrap pack. IMG_1082 Thoughts: I love them but the Ponte makes them snug, just like the blue crosses above. I need to drop about 10lbs, and they will also be perfect. They will wait for me. The black roses in DBP are perfect. The DBP has just the right stretch to make these shorts so super soft and comfortable. I wear them all the time with my blue floral ones. IMG_1098

And that’s it for today!  I still have quite a bit more makes to blog so I’m hoping to get a post up every Friday until I’m caught up.

Happy Sewing! Kristin

Friday, September 23, 2022

A Failed Win and a Successful Fail–Two Dresses Sinclair and McCalls

Pattern:  Sinclair Dakota Dress

IMG_0993 Measurements at this time:
  • high bust 39 inches
  • bust 42 inches
  • waist 37 inches
  • hip 48.5 inches
I started sewing this 8/24/22 and finished the same day Size: 16 for my bust/waist, and 18 for the hip Options sewn: Standard Bodice, Tank, Scoop neck, and no pockets as the fabric is way to finicky Sewn Before: Jan 2021 Butterfly Tunic IMG_0990 Adjustments:  I made 1/2-inch forward shoulder adjustment IMG_0985 Fabric:  Ok. This is totally my fault this dress doesn’t work. I couldn’t find a fabric in my stash that I liked that had enough yardage (2 yards I think) for this dress. I wanted to use something I liked but not something beloved because I hope my weight gain drops back to my normal soon. When I saw this one, I thought ooooh that’s pretty. It was in my ITY spot, and I grabbed it and went for it. It feels like an ITY. Well when I looked up the fabric in my Evernote database it is a SWIM fabric….. crud. Did I just make a dress out of swim fabric? Because at this point it was already made, too late. IMG_0996 I purchased this fabric from Fabric.com thru amazon back in June 2020 for $6.84/yard, 2 yards. It was called Fabric Merchants Swimwear Nylon Spandex Floral Garden Indigo/Blush; 80% Nylon/20% Lycra Spandex IMG_0989 ThoughtsThe shoulders and the bust are too big as you can see in the pictures. Is this a fabric problem or a sizing problem? Am I at the point where I need an FBA? I also don't like the hem where it's kind of a high low but kind of not - but then I looked at my other Dakota tunic, that I love, and see that the hem is the same so maybe that's just how the pattern is. I love my other Dakota sewn Jan 21, 2021, but it's made from double brushed Poly; that one is awesome. I don't like this dress and how it looks and it's probably my fault because of the swim fabric. So, I thought this was going to be a win because I loved my other Dakota but this was a fail.

**Update Apr 2024** I actually have come to like this dress and wear it quite a bit.  the fabric has a slick cooling feel and it has a regular place in my closet and is worn often!

IMG_0988 20220824_194214 Now here is the ironic part in this blogpost.  I thought the Dakota above would be a WIN because I sewed it before and loved it and it turned out to be a FAIL.  But the following dress I sewed way back in 2017 and didn’t like it, I called it a FAIL and now it is a WIN.  So ….. that is kind of funny.

Pattern: McCall’s M6957

dmc6957 Let’s bring back a dress from the past!  I initially sewed this in 2017, and blogged it in 2020.  I had originally ditched it half finished because it was too big and frumpy and I called it a fail. I need to change that assessment now. My measurements at the time of initial cutting and sewing back in 2017: 37.5 bust, 31 waist, 45 hip; and my measurements now in 2022: 42 bust, 37 waist, 48.5 hip these pics are from now, Sept 2022 IMG_1024 Size used in 2017: 16 bust/waist, 20 hip IMG_1020 Date Sewn: June 2017 (yes, 2017. LOL this has been in my ufo pile for a long time. I was digging through my random UFO pile with Miss K one night in June and found this dress (minus a neckband and armbands because I never finished them or hemmed it).  I tried it on just to see - because I’ve gained so much weight and summer is darn hot here and I was desperate for dresses that fit. And it actually fit well!  Well enough for me to want to finish the dress and WEAR it! I was excited because it was a half finished dress so all I had to do was hem and neck and armbands and it was ready to wear. Alterations: just grading out at the hip. IMG_1023 Fabric: a space dye knit with no real stretch, though it was listed as having ample stretch.  Its soft and flowy. Black/Grey Slubbed Jersey Knit 95% rayon 5% lycra.  Purchased from FashionFabricsclub in Aug 2016 for $3.95/yard.  I used 1.75 yards (it is 58” wide) – the pattern calls for 2 yards of 60” wide. Total: $6.91 IMG_1027 Thoughts Now in 2022:  I love it. I really do love it. Now that I’ve gained a bunch of weight I think it fits perfectly.  My tastes have changed a bit too as my body shape has changed.  I like the fact that it doesn’t cling to the body or waist.  It is so comfortable to wear and I wore it 3 days straight after I finished it.  I lost the original neck/arm bands somewhere between 2017 and now so I used just plain black Double brushed Poly.  I love how it looks. IMG_1029 I asked my husband if I could wear it out in public as a dress and he said no. He said “you need a belt, there’s no waist” I told him I don’t want a belt, I have a giant thyroid belly right now and I like that it is flowy.  Some men have no idea on fashion. Haha! 20220819_203411 SO, this dress is a win if you really size down - like 2 sizes.  I needed to gain 30lbs to have the dress look right on me in my original smaller size.   Here are my Original Thoughts on this dress back in in 2017 and again in June 2020 when I finally blogged the wretched thing It’s too frumpy. It didn’t turn out like the pattern envelope at all.  It doesn’t look nipped in at the waist. It doesn’t hang with flare at the hip/skirt part.  It is not flattering. I thought maybe I could save it for a nightgown but its not even cute enough for that!  There are weird folds where the center back seam is, near the bottom hem.  I can’t even find the bands to finish the arms and neck. Pictures from 2020- pre surgery when I still didn’t like it. mccalls 1mccalls 2 2017 original pictures when I was sizes smaller and no thyroid belly f jun 3 2017 made mccalls m6957 total fail dress, blogged jun 28 2020 2f jun 3 2017 made mccalls m6957 total fail dress, blogged jun 28 2020 3 Thoughts in 2017 and 2020: This is a definite no for me. I’m probably not going to attempt the pattern again.  In fact, I lost the pieces to the pattern, which is rare for me.  Now in 2022? I love the dress! So, to sum things up. A win pattern became a fail and a failed make became a win! It just makes me chuckle. I wish I never threw away or cut up or got rid of any of my previous makes. My weight changes so much with my  health that I’m bound to wear things at some point.   Thanks for reading and Happy Sewing! Kristin

Friday, September 16, 2022

Vintage Kwik Sew Nightgowns – Kwik Sew 630, some undies, and pj pants

Woohoo!!! I have things to share!  I have been doing a bit of sewing here and there and have a bunch of makes to share with you.  OK, so we are going to start with these two vintage nightgowns that I made.

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I’m going to start with the second one I made, first, because it’s my favorite.

Vintage Kwik Sew 630 Nightgown sewn July 2022 (second one) IMG_1032 Measurements at this time:

high bust 39 inches

bust 42 inches

waist 37 inches

hip 48.5 inches

Date Sewn: I started sewing this on July 31st and finished it on the same day. It's a nice quick sew

Size: large for my bust/waist, and extra-large for the hip

IMG_1038 Adjustments: I made 1/2-inch forward shoulder adjustment Fabric: a remnant from Joann’s. I know people give the doodles/pop line a bad rap because they shrink so much but this was the cutest fabric and I just had to have it. I don't care. it is a little bit tighter than my first nightgown, but I don't care. I purchased a one-yard remnant of the pop interlock in this bluish picnic-bees-and-mice fabric. I paid only $5.24 for the one yard and then I used some cotton lycra scraps for the neckline and the sleeves. The cotton lycra was from purple seamstress from some project, who knows how long ago. I keep my scraps in the bucket and then when I need them, I just pull them out. The royal blue happened to match exactly what I needed for this, so win-win. The interlock fabric is 98% cotton and 2% spandex. It's super soft, doesn't have a ton of stretch, but it has some stretch and I love it. I bought the fabric on June 14th, 2022. IMG_1035 IMG_1039 Thoughts: I find the neckband tight when I used cotton lycra, I feel like it needs an inch more in length. I should have used ribbing for the neck, not the cotton lycra - or added the extra inch. This is a vintage pattern and I know they choose ribbing back in the day. It's not completely uncomfortable but the arm bands on the biceps are a bit tight, using the interlock.  I just love this pattern for a nightgown. It is the perfect length, it is super comfortable, and I love that curved hem on the sides.

Here is a closeup of the fabric so you can see how cute it is.

IMG_0910 Vintage Kwik Sew 630 – Sewn the first time around Jan 23, 2022 jan 23 vintage nightgown kwik sew 630 Measurements at the time: Same as the 1st nightgown above

Size sewn: also the same

Adjustments: also the same, lol

IMG_1054 Fabric: Now I will talk about the first time I made the pattern. I used a rayon spandex fabric; I got it a long time ago from fabric Mart (May 12, 2017).  It's called turquoise white tie dye print rayon lycra jersey knit. I had three yards of this for $4 a yard and I don't know why because I really don't like rayon spandex. I have a ton of rayon spandex in my fabric stash and I don't like the fabric LOL.  I find that it shows every lump and bump, and it pills, and I just don't care for it; however I wanted to try this pattern and not use any of my good fabric so, it sewed up just fine and it works but it's already pilling. On the flip side it is soft and really comfortable. I sewed up Miss K a pair of pj pants with my scraps, so we used every inch of these 3 yards of fabric. IMG_1050

I used a ton of wonder tape on this one. the bottom hems are only 1/4" and curved, that makes for some interesting sewing.  I used wonder tape and then coverstitched the bottom hem but after wearing I found that the coverstitch, even on narrow is too wide for the 1/4” hem.  So the second nightgown (bees and picnic baskets), I used a 3-step zig zag on the hem and I much prefer it.  You can see the difference in the hems below. And you can see the pilling on the tie-dyed fabric.

IMG_0967

I just love this curved hem!

IMG_1052 This pattern also has a pair of underwear/boy shorts you can make to match your nightgown. I wanted to try these because I'm all about trying different underwear patterns as you can see in my super long underwear post. I sewed the underwear with the tie dye fabric to match on August 15th. I originally took two inches off the front rise and one inch off the back rise because let's face it, vintage patterns are too high rise for me. When I laid the pattern on top of my favorite underwear pattern, I could see that it was super wide in the front but in the back it looked ok. That front gusset was very wide, but I wanted to try it. I used 19 inches leg elastic, 29 waist elastic even though 32 is suggested. I also used fold over elastic here instead of the 1/4 regular elastic they call for. I am allergic to latex and actual elastic is too itchy, but I found that fold over elastic works great and doesn’t make me itch.

Here is the vintage undie pattern on the bottom, and my favorite Draft #2 on top of it.  See how much wider it is!

unders vintage

original wide undies.

20220815_200806 When I was done sewing up the underwear they looked quite large. I tried them on and laughed so hard. The crotch is too low, leaving a seam across the lady bits that is not comfortable.  The crotch was also way too wide. There were folds in the crotch because there was too much fabric. I guess it was the opposite of a camel toe in that it just had two much width. I didn't want to give up on these so I took a marker and drew where I would want the front and the crotch to be and I cut the underwear apart and decide to resew them. I ended up taking 1.5 inches off each side of the crotch for a total of 3 inches out of that crotch!! I tapered up to the front hip and left the back piece alone. Now they fit, but the application of the elastic is not something I care for; it makes it way too bulky. The pattern has you sew the elastic to the right side and then flip it around to the back and sew again so you have 2 layers of fabric sandwiching the elastic. That is too thick and bulky for me. I also found while wearing them that I really do not like rayon spandex underwear they are too hot to wear. So, the undies are a failure but that is ok. I have a tried-and-true favorite undie pattern already.

Here are the fixed, modified narrow undies. They will be going into the trash.  **Update 04/30/24** they did not go in the trash and I actually enjoy wearing them.  They are comfortable and the rayon is so soft and breathable.

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Final thoughts: So I love this pattern for the nightgown.  I love the length, the curved hem, the ease at which it wears.  It is easy to throw on and be comfortable lounging or in bed sleeping.  I will probably make a few more in the future.

IMG_1041IMG_1046

Lets throw in a quick picture of Miss K’s pants I also made with this tie-dye fabric.

I sewed these up Jan 19, 2022.  It was the first real make I sewed since brain surgery and I struggled.  I only attempted to sew one other time in Sept 2021, my black leggings, but now I am doing better and able to sew more. Not as much as before brain surgery, but at least I can get in my sewing room and make some things.  I shared these pants on a different post back in March of 2022.

I’ve made this pattern for both of us so many times now:

Jan 2022 these blue tie-dyed, April 2020 green fruit, both for Miss K  Sept 2017 black stripe for Miss K, Dec 2017 Red yoga for me, Dec 2017 purple stripe for me, Dec 2019 red xmas pjs for Miss K, and Aug 2020 my favorite pair of gray french terry pants for me. image

Miss K wears these ALL THE TIME so I must have made a winner.  She loves the pattern of course but she also loves the softness of the rayon spandex.  I love that I used up every bit of the 3 yards of fabric and we had no scraps.

And now a quick health update: A lot has happened since my last health update in March 2022.  I started a different seizure medicine.  It seems to be helping quite a bit and my stomach is tolerating it so far.  This has allowed me to be able to get out of bed more and do more “normal” things for me.  I still spend a lot of time in bed, a lot of time in pain, and a lot of bad days, but they are getting less and less as time goes on.

I had my radiation follow-up MRI in August.  I was so freaking scared.  BUT the best news happened. My remaining tumor has showed NO GROWTH.  This is huge news, very good news.  Now I wait another 6 months and have another MRI.  We just continue to watch the leftover tumor (half was left from surgery) the rest of my life.

On the flip side, the radiation has destroyed much of my pituitary gland so I am dealing with many symptoms from that So now I deal with pituitary hypothyroidism and all that goes with it= hot sweats, dizziness, hair falling out in chunks, weight gain, fatigue, not sleeping, cold as ice, etc. A lot of the brain surgery symptoms such as fatigue and insomnia are made worse with the thyroid issues.  My emotions are a mess as well.  I miss my pituitary regularity.  I never knew all the things it did for me.  So anyway, we just watch and wait and see what damage comes further.

I’m trying to stabilize my emotions, but I’m still so very angry about having the tumor.  I don’t want it. I don’t want to be this person.  It frustrates me daily still.  My hair still falls out in handfuls daily, but it is slowly growing longer again.  I’ve gained 60 lbs since last fall/winter when my pituitary gland crapped out - that pisses me off because most of my older makes do not fit me.  I look in the mirror and I don’t see me. This is not me.  I look so old and tired.  I try to do more normal things, for me, and then they hurt and I”m mad. But when I succeed at doing something I used to do, I’m elated, but exhausted.  It is very much a rollercoaster.  I’ve been trying to repeat this quote in my head when I get really depressed. “Surrender to what is. Let go of what was. Have faith in what will be.” by Sonia Ricotti.

That’s all for now, I have many more makes to share so be on the lookout for more!

Happy Sewing!!! Kristin