Battle of the Joggers! ~ Burda vs. Ottobre

The other day I compared two Raglan T-shirt patterns; today I’m comparing two Jogger patterns.  What are joggers you ask?  Well, they are essentially tapered sweatpants or loose, knit type pants with tapered ankles.  All the “cool” kids seem to be wearing them and they look pretty darn comfortable so I thought I’d give them a try. 
Keep in mind that my “joggers” are to be worn as pajamas. 

First up is BurdaStyle 11/2012 #135


Size:  The pattern goes from a size 34 up to a 44; my hips are in the 48 size range so I knew I needed to grade up.  I measured the flat pattern meticulously to see how my measurements compared.   Because of this I used a size 42 for the front waist/hip grading to a 44 for the thighs and back to a 42 on down.  For the back piece I used size 48 for the hip, grading to a 42 for the thigh on down.  I had to take 4 inches out of the center back seam for my sway back, yikes! 



Instructions: I didn’t read them.  Sorry, Burda instructions are horrible and I knew how to put the pants together.  I omitted the pockets on these at the last minute because I wanted to be able to adjust the fit as I sewed.  I didn’t like the huge bottom cuff on the original pattern (It was 7” high after folding over!) so I added 5” to the leg inseam and reduced the cuffs by this same amount.



Fabric: 1.5 yards Navy Blue Cotton Lycra knit.  Purchased June 2015 for $7.88 from fashionfabricsclub



Thoughts: I’m not loving these.  They are really baggy in the front and also in the back waist.  They aren’t very cute looking at all.  The cuffs were super tiny and the legs not so much so I had to really stretch to get them on.  The waistband is yoga style and I had to take 1” off each side just so the pants wouldn’t fall down.  I already attached the waistband because I was fed up and “over” these so I couldn’t adjust the bagginess.  They will work for PJ’s but if I make this pattern again I need to seriously size down the front and also bring the back down a size.

I'm only showing you this embarrassing photo of my bubble butt so you have an idea of the fitting challenges associated with it's size. 

Next up are Ottobre 05/2011 #5 ~ Loungers Sweatpants


Size: This pattern goes from size 34 all the way up to 52.  (Yay for Ottobre sizing).  I measured this flat pattern too and settled on size 42 for the front and 42 for the back.  However, I added 1” in the back hip and 1” for a Full Butt Adjustment.  I had to take out 4 inches of the center back seam for these too because of that swayback.  I also had  to shorten the inseam by 3 inches because these were super long! 



Instructions: Straight and to the point.  Typical of Ottobre. 
Fabric: 1.5 yards White/Black Lace Print; cotton lycra knit. Purchased for $7.88 from fashionfabricsclub in November 2015. 



Thoughts: I’m loving these.  They are super comfortable.  The print is fun for pajamas.  The pockets are sewn down onto the front piece so they aren’t flopping around.  I omitted the drawstring for comfort purposes.  The pants are a bit baggy overall;  If I make them again I will have to size this pattern down by one size.  My wild print makes it hard to see the details, sorry. I can assure you I feel like a rock star wearing this around the house!



For me the winner is the Ottobre joggers. 

• They are super comfortable
• The pockets are stitched down so no flopping
• There is a wide range of sizes offered

I’ll stick with that pattern and put the Burda back into the filing cabinet.

Miss K had to join me for the pajama party

Battle of the Raglans ~ P4P vs. Ottobre

Hello, Hello!  I took a ton of pictures today so I'll have lots to show you the next couple days. Let's start with my battle of the Raglans. 

I wanted to take 2 patterns for Raglan tops and make them both to compare them in fit and assembly.



The first one I made was the Patterns for Pirates ~ Raglan.  This pattern has so many great add-on's that I just had to buy it (during their sale of course).  There are options for: a hood; a cross over funnel hood; a funnel hood that is ruched, traditional, or buttoned up; Elbow patches; a kangaroo pocket; thumb hole cuffs;  long sleeves, 3/4 sleeves, short sleeves; curved hem, banded hem, regular hem; tunic length, regular length.... Oh the possibilities.  I just love that in a pattern. I’m not an affiliate and I wasn’t given the pattern free, I just like it a ton!



Plus, the PDF is no trim.  This means that if I print with a "boarder-less" setting on my printer I don't have to cut anything, just get right to taping up the pattern. I love that!  The sizing is also amazing in that it goes from XXS all the way up to XXXL.  The patterns are drafted for hourglass shapes.
  


Sizing: My measurements put me into a L for chest/waist, and XL for hips. However, according to comments on the Facebook page it was recommended to size down.  So I sewed up a M and then graded to a L at the hip. 

Instructions: amazingly detailed and very helpful.  Pictures are posted for each step.  I just keep my laptop up next to me in my sewing room while I sew.  



Fabric: 1 yard Navy Blue Jersey Knit, cotton/lycra.  I purchased it in June for $5.25 from Fashionfabricsclub.com; It is so super soft I would live in it if I could.  and a Fat Half of Gray Elephant Rayon Jersey knit purchased in June this year for $3.75 from Purpleseamstress.  This stuff is soft too, but on the light side.  Total for shirt: $9.00



Thoughts: I love it! I really love it.  The length is perfect, the sleeves are nice and a tad long – which is great in the cold because I can pull the cuffs down over my hands. The neckline is perfect.  I think the sleeves are a tad big, but that is easy to fix for next time.  This is a Winner in my book; plus, think of all the options with the pattern!
 
Next up is Ottobre 05/2011 #4 ~ Everyday Scoop Neck Raglan T-Shirt
The pattern is for a long sleeved raglan with sleeve cuffs and hip band.  No options come with this one.  Just a nice simple shirt.



Sizing: I made this according to my measurements; I also measured the flat pattern to make sure they would work.  I sewed a 42 for the shoulders and waist; and a 44 for the bust and hip. The pattern goes from size 34 to 52.



Instructions: normal Ottobre; sufficient in information but no pictures to help you along the way.  No hand-holding.

Fabric: 1 yard black cotton lycra knit 7oz purchased in Nov. from Stylish fabrics for $4.90; Fat Half of White/Black Lace Print cotton lycra knit purchased in Nov. from Fashion Fabrics Club for $2.63.  Total for the shirt: $7.53.



Thoughts: I’m not digging this top as much.  I love the fabric for sure, but the fit of this one is different.  The neckline is way to wide/low for me.  It ended up too short for my liking, plus the sleeve cuffs are too big, they aren’t tight enough on my wrists.  I had the hem band on but it was terrible and too big for the bottom so I had to chop it off (no unpicking that for me) and sew a tiny 1/2” hem.  Now it’s too short.  I will remake this raglan with the same fabric but use the P4P pattern.  (am I crazy? lol. yes, I am.)

here is with the hem band on. See how it swings out in front? ick.

 
 
The Ottobre Raglan isn’t bad, it just does not fit me comfortably like the patterns for pirates one.  Plus it does not include all those fun options.  I think if the bands on the cuffs and hem were a good 2 inches tighter, the top would fit better.
 
~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~

Ottobre Woman 05/2011 #1 Sunday Morning & #2 Sweet Dreams

I've slowly been conquering my "to-do" list one thing at a time.
Yesterday I looked at a pile of fabric in my sewing room and spied a lovely lightweight, semi-sheer cotton with cute yellow flowers.  I instantly knew what I wanted to make with it.

These are the first two Woman's patterns I've traced and sewn from my Ottobre magazine stash.  I guess I'm testing the waters on sizing with these two.

# 2 Sweet Dreams
My measurements put me in a size 44 for the bottoms so I traced and cut that size.
These shorts have an elastic waist and a drawstring.  As I was sewing I was a bit nervous because the rise looked very large.  I like things to sit waaaay below my waist. Nonetheless I put them together as stated.

I followed the instructions to the tee.  Every step was laid out nicely.
I opted to put fusible interfacing over the drawstring buttonholes even though the pattern called for fabric there.  I serged all edges.  I didn't add picot-edged elastic to the leg holes because it would bother me; plus I'm really not one for frills (now I know where my daughter gets it from).  I used pre-packaged bias tape for the drawstring because it saved time.

After I finished I tried the shorts on and the rise is very high for me.  Next time I'd lower the waist by a full 1-1.5 inches; these sit about an inch below my waist. They are also pretty big on me.  I think I may need to go down to a 42 next time.  I usually wear a size 10 in RTW.

I like the shorts and they will be comfy for bedtime so it's a win.

# 1 Sunday Morning
My measurements put me in a size 40 for the top so that is the size I traced and cut.
Most of these pattern pieces are cut on the fold with exception to the straps and button band. It is a bit of a fabric hog because of this.
My fabric is semi-sheer so I added a nice light cotton lining to the bust area.

I also followed the instructions for this tank and they were well written.  I used a small bit of the pre-packaged bias tape for the button band to match the shorts drawstring. At first I wasn't sure what length I needed to gather the center bust band too, however I soon realized I was fitting the button band into that spot.  Next time I'll most likely use some elastic tape so it is a nicer gather.

I forgot about the underbust elastic and casing made with the seam allowances when I serged those seams.... It made for a very tight elastic casing but I made it work.  I didn't want any picot-edged elastic on the tank either so I used 1/4 inch elastic and attached it as I would for a swim suit, or underwear - zigzaged the elastic on while stretching and then flip and zigzag again.  I had to make sure I created more stretching on top of the bust cups because the pattern states to extra stretch here to "create shape for the bust."

At this point I tried on the tank and realized the bust part was way to big for me... :-( boo They were both big width-wise and height-wise.  I tapered 1/2 inch off each of the sides and then flipped the top elastic down again.   It works now even though it is slightly big still.  Next time I'll have to try a size 38 - I usually wear an XS to a S in RTW tops.

I sized the straps according to the pattern instructions and added cute little vintage buttons from my stash.

Overall I'm pleased with both and most likely will attempt these patterns again in different sizes.

Fabric: Picked up from Hancock's Sept 15th, 2012; It is a beautiful Ivory and has yellow flowers.  Very lightweight and semi-sheer.  I grabbed it because it looked so "vintage" to me.  They only had 2.5 yards left so I snatched them all up at $1.19/yard; I used pretty much all of it so my pajama outfit cost me $2.98 total. LOL that ROCKS!

~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~