BurdaStyle 01/2017 #103 The Oversized Hoodie

BurdaStyle 01/2017 #103 The Oversized Hoodie

 

I read a few reviews on this hoodie before I made it.  They all stated it was large and to size down.  So I did and it still turned out way big. (This was made in April).

Size: My measurements at the time put me in size 42 bust/waist and 46 hip.  I sewed up a size 40 bust/waist and 42 hip.  This hoodie should be advertised as oversized. (I skipped the kangaroo front pocket because it went over my panel design). Before attaching the hood and hemband I tried it on and saw it was enormous so I took an extra 2" off each side.  It still is very large.

Instructions:  I glanced at them here and there.  They were ok for the most part.  You need prior knowledge of how to put a hoodie together before tackling this project.

Fabric: Charcoal cotton lycra; royal cotton lycra; and a Raccoon panel from Wanderlust Designs. 

Thoughts:  I know it can be hard to tell in the pictures, but I feel like I'm drowning in it and it feels very frumpy.  When a shirt matches my hips I lose my waist and it makes me look 2x larger than I am.  I love the style of the pattern and my fabric choices, so I’m a bit sad it is too large. I cannot take any more off the sides because I will lose most of the design there.   I don’t think I’ll attempt this pattern again.  The good news is that I bought a bunch of these wildlife panels in a sale – so I think I have another raccoon for a different pattern.

Happy Sewing! 

Kristin

Lekala 4341 Hoodie

I finished this hoodie up on March 9th. I’m still not sure if I like it or not.  I like some parts, do not care for others. This is my first Lekala sew.  Their concept is interesting and they have tons of great looking patterns for good prices.  You enter your measurements into their website and they “customize” the pattern to fit you.   For the price, I thought I would try one (actually I have purchased 2, one was forever ago and it had issues from the start). 

The first time I ordered I paid extra for seam allowances to be added.  However, when I downloaded the pattern the SA part was all messed up and not the same measurement in any place.  So that top has been put away and forgotten about.  This time, I ordered the hoodie and chose no SA to be added, then I traced and added my own.

 
Size: to my measurements – finished it turned out a bit oversized.



Alterations: I read a PR review that talked about the enormous hood.  So I took those suggestions and reduced the hood by 3” in height.  I added pockets to the front because no hoodie should be without pockets!  To do this I just cut another front pouch section, top-stitched the sides down and sewed it like normal with the other piece.  Also, the bottom hem band was enormously tall.  I shortened the height by almost half. 



Instructions: Well, sadly these were worse than Burda – and that says A LOT.  The instructions are very sparse and do not make a ton of sense. I really struggled with the hood.  Also, the hood lining pieces do not say to cut them with the fabric wrong side up – lesson learned. I cut them like normal, fabric R side up, and they were reverse from what I needed, because the lining right side is opposite the hoodie right side fabric.   The hood is by far the weirdest construction of this hoodie.  I understand why they made it this way, because of that collar part, but it’s just weird.  My fat plastic jacket zipper made it difficult to finish the seam where it meets the stomach part too. 



Fabric: 2 yards Burgundy French terry, 4way stretch (about a 50% stretch both vertically and horizontally), $10 a yard, purchased from purpleseamstress in Sept 2017. Plus 1 yard  Charcoal cotton/lycra also from purpleseamstress, $6.50.  Total for hoodie: $26.50



Thoughts: I love the design look, on other people.  I just don’t like the collar part on me – which is funny because that is what drew me to it in the first place.  It feels awkward.  I can’t walk around with the hood up and the collar stands funny that way; when the hood is down I feel like the collar jagging off to the side is even more awkward.  It doesn't have the "coolness" factor the original photo has. The seam in the middle of the hood bothers me.  The lining creeps forward because they don’t have you top-stitch around the hood.  It just doesn’t “feel” good on me.  I won’t throw it out just yet, I’ll give it a try during Me-Made-May before I make a final decision.



Happy Sewing!
~Kristin~

Ottobre Hide Away Hoodie and Ottobre Stream Leggings

I’ve had both these pieces finished for quite some time now; but getting pictures taken has proven difficult. When Ottobre 02/2017 came out I was so excited.  I love almost everything in the whole magazine!  I can’t wait to sew them all up. 

Ottobre Hide Away Hoodie

Immediately I was drawn to this pattern.  The pockets are awesome and it looked like a great fall/winter piece.

Size and Alterations: 42 everywhere grading to a 46 at the hip. It was a little tricky adding seam allowance to the pocket linings but I figured it out.  1/2” forward shoulder adjustment. At first I made it with the hem band but I didn’t really like it plus it was too long on me.  So my mom suggested removing the hem band and just hemming it.  Well I love it now!



Instructions and Pattern: I’m used to Ottobre instructions by now.  They are sparse, but too the point.  The hardest part is that there are no pictures to follow.  I have to take each line as it is.  The instructions and pattern is great.



Fabric: Pink & Blue Floral Grey French Terry from Knitpop. 2 yards purchased in Feb 2016  $17.00.  Grey Stripes French Terry POLY 62%, RAY 33%, SPAN 5%, 1 yard also purchased from Knitpop at the same time. $8.50.  Total: $25.50



Thoughts: Love, Love, Love.  I wasn’t sure if it was too baggy or if I should bring it in on the sides a bit but after looking at the pictures I will just leave it like it is.  I can’t wait to wear it.



Ottobre Stream Leggings



Size and Alterations: Back Pieces: 44 at waist, 48 at hip down. dropped back crotch curve 1/2”.  Front Piece: 44 at waist, 46 hip down.  Waistband 44.



Instructions and Pattern: Simple leggings with an awesome waistband.  No issues with the pattern or instructions.

Fabric: 2 yards Black fabric.  I wish I could tell you what this stuff is. I got it from Hancock’s going out of business sale.  Active Knit High Performance is what the receipt says.  $0.85/yd. so… $1.70 for these leggings.



Thoughts: These are the very best fitting leggings I’ve made and/or owned.  I love the waistband especially; it keeps everything in place. I think that they are a little baggy behind the knees and from the knees down to the ankles.  However, this is an easy fix for next time. 

Next time:  Need to taper legs from knee down, need to add 1” to length.  Waistband needs: 1/2” taken off top of back middle, tapering to 0 (for swayback). and lower 1” in front only at top of waistband.

Here is with it pulled back, if I decided to take in the side seams.  It looks ok, but I think this design is meant to be a bit baggy.



And the before shot, with the hem band.  I didn’t really care for it this way.  I’m glad I chopped it off


Here is a sneak peek of some things I’m working on:

Jalie 3667 Marie-Claude Long Sleeve Tops

Jalie 3667 Raglan Top for me



Size and Adjustments: W for shoulders and bust, V for waist and Z for hip
I chose to make View C the soft turtleneck with regular cuffs.



Instructions and pattern: I can’t lie.  I dislike how they piece together the collar.  It drives me nuts.  Why take a simple thing and make it more complicated?  The rest of the instructions are fine for this version (see below on other issues).  Oh! I almost forgot to mention, the arms are really long on this one.



Fabric: 2 yards of French Terry from So Sew English.  Purchased Oct 2017 for $13.50.  FT ALEXANDRA - DENIM / MARSALA - Poly Rayon Spandex French Terry Knit.  I hate to give a bad review and this post is full of disappointments.  This fabric is horribly thin.  I’ve never felt thinner French terry. I just wasn’t happy with it.  Plus my order took forever to come.  Pair it with the fabric below’s issues and I won’t order from SSE again. 





Thoughts: Ok.  Putting the pattern pieces aside, I do love the fit of this top.  It is a fast sew.  I can’t wait to make it again in a different fabric.  I’m unsure if I like this floral fabric on me, I will put it in the closet for awhile and see if it grows on me.

View A: Hooded with regular cuffs for Miss K



Size and Adjustments: Miss K: T for shoulders and bust, V for waist and W for hip
Instructions and pattern:  Normally I love Jalie instructions and techniques, however, these are the worst instructions and pieces for thumb cuffs that I’ve ever run across.  I also really dislike how they piece the hood.  Those two things aside, the rest of the pattern and instructions are good. (I always use this video for my thumbhole cuffs.  the results are perfect everytime: 5oo4 youtube video)

Fabric: Ok, more terrible fabric from So Sew English.  This plaid French terry is super thin.  It has tons of snags in the loops all over the back.  There are also some snags in the front.  Of course one ended up right in front when I was finished.   And worst of all is that the lines are so off grain that there is no hope of matching anything.  As I mentioned above, it took forever to get to me, and I won’t order from here again.  This was 2 yards Red/black FT PLAID -Poly Rayon Spandex French Terry for $19.98 purchased in Oct 2017 for Miss K, she loves buffalo plaid. 

Thoughts:  Miss K wanted thumbhole cuffs, but after fighting with the fiddly ridiculous pieces in the pattern and the terrible directions I just gave up and put regular cuffs on.  I told none of these issues to Miss K.  She wears the top, it fits her great, and she loves it. 



In awesome news, I got a new coverstitch machine!  I know, I know, I just got a new one in May…  In May I sold my Brother 2340cv and got the Janome 1000cpx.  Well I struggled and cursed too many times at that Janome.  We just couldn’t get along.  So I gave up and sold it.  And bought a Babylock CoverStitch2.  No issues with her!  She is awesome!  I’ll do a full review of all three, sometime soon.


Also, I have big ideas and big plans for this next year.  I’ll be sure to share that info soon.  Health wise I’m just taking each day as it comes.  This year has been the hardest for me in terms of my health but I just keep pushing forward, one small step at a time. 

Sewing for the Boy ~ Simplicity, Burda, Ottobre, Jalie

I don’t sew much for Mr. T anymore.  He’s a 15 year old boy so he is pretty picky on things.  He specifically wants things that are plain.  No graphics, no color changes, no fun… 
He wears hoodies every day to school.  So I thought I would make him a few.
 
First up: Burda 6718



Size: 36 which fits his measurements exactly.  However, it ended up short.  like 2-3 inches short.  Sadness.

It doesn’t look too short here, but it really is with jeans on. He wears it and likes it but I cringe every time!  I'll have to remake it only longer.



Fabric: Midnight Green Cotton Slub Jersey Knit.  I purchased it from Fabric Mart.  It said 4 way stretch but it barely stretches 2 way.  anyway. 2 yards $4/yard so $8 total for the hoodie. 

2nd hoodie: Jalie 3355
I never knew this pattern was unisex.  There are only girls on the front cover.  Then one day I read in a facebook post and looked on the website and sure enough, unisex!!  How perfect because I love this pattern for me and Miss K. 



Size: straight size U.  This is a couple sizes above his measurements.  I know he likes a men’s medium and I wear a men’s medium; I use size U for this hoodie so that’s what I used.  I’ve been using shoestrings for the hoodie string.  It works out great.



Fabric: 2 yards Dark Pewter Rayon French Terry Knit from Fabric Mart.  Purchased in May 2017 for $6/yard.  total for this hoodie $12.  This fabric is so so soft. but heavy because of the rayon. Mr. T LOVES this hoodie.  He wears it every chance he gets. 

Thoughts: I feel like the hem band is way too tight.  I remember I added inches to it for myself and K but forgot for T’s.  I need to add 1-2 inches next time to the width of the hem band. 

Pajamas. This is where I can have a little more creativity with Mr. T.
 
Ottobre 06/2011 # 37 Pajama shorts
I’ve made Mr. T these pajamas countless times.  He loves them but keeps outgrowing them!



This time I made size 170.  This is the highest size Ottobre offers so when T outgrows these he won’t be getting more! 

Fabric: 1.5 yards of this fun pinstripe suiting.  I got it in a scrap box from Fabric Mart June 2015.  It was only $0.83 for the whole bit.  The selvage said “Lana, Storia, 180’s Qualita Moderno” Quite honestly I didn’t know what I would use it for and them BAM!  it became perfect for this project. 



I recently got an embroidery machine and digitized this Overwatch design for Mr. T onto them.  This symbol is for one of his favorite characters in Overwatch.  Sombra I think?  He loves these, I love these.  they wash well and wear well.  Next time I’ll remember to widen the waistband and use 1.5” elastic instead of 3/4”

Simplicity 1021 Pajama Shorts
I thought it would be fun to try this pattern.  It has pockets, it looks cool. 


Size: Small.  I took 1” off the rise because it looked crazy high.  They turned out cute, but short.  Like boxers.  What sucks is that the pattern doesn't list yardage for just the bottoms.  They list it for the total top and bottoms.

Mr. T likes them.  I added a Lobster design and T’s monogram to the leg.  Mr. T really likes these.  I think I’ll make the pants version for him.



Fabric: 2 yards (though I didn't use all of it) Navy Lobster in Cotton Lawn.  I got this back in Feb 2015 from Hancocks on sale for $2.64/yard.  so total for these $5.28


Happy Sewing!

Sewing for Miss K–Patterns for Pirates

Here are some of the things I’ve sewn for Miss K lately.  (She is not into pictures anymore….. 11 yr olds….)

Patterns for Pirates ~ Relaxed Raglan Hoodies

Aqua Azetc Hoodie

This is what she asked for. We sat down and put it together on my Cameo software. 

And this is the face I get when I try to take pics

The Aqua Aztec Hoodie is from some wonderful Aqua Liverpool fabric.  The texture is so cool: bumpy but soft.  I got this from Hancock’s going out of business sale.  I picked up 6 yards in July 2016 for only $0.75 a yard!!!  The navy accents are also the same Liverpool – I purchased 6 yards of that for $0.75 a yard too!  That was an amazing shopping day.  So this hoodie took about 2 yards and cost $1.50.  K has worn it a million times since I made it a few months ago (March).  She loves it.

Light Turquoise Hoodie

Size for both:  S in the shoulders, S/M everywhere else. For the hoodie I used the lined hood, cuffs, kangaroo pocket, and shirt length in banded.  For the Aztec fabric I added elbow patches per K’s request. 

I wanted to steal this one for myself but it was a tad small

The light turquoise hoodie is from 2 yards of Triblend Jersey knit I purchased from Knitpop for $8.50/yd.  It is super soft and lightweight.  K wanted a hoodie to wear when the weather was warmer.  This worked perfectly for that.  She didn’t want any graphic put on it though, preferring it to be plain.  Total cost for this hoodie $17

Thoughts:  Well, I love this pattern.  I’ve made it countless times for myself and K loves it too. 

Patterns for Pirates ~ Essentials tank and Palazzos as shorts



Miss K sleeps hot so I made up some cute tank and shorts combos for her sleepwear. 



Essentials tank: Size XS in bust/shoulder and M in waist/hip.  I raised the neckline by 1”, shortened the overall tank length by 1”, and shortened the straps by 1/2”.  This is the shirt length, hemmed with straight straps. (the teal one I made about 3” longer for tunic length)



Palazzos: Size XS in shorts length.

Fabric: The Black is double brushed poly, the pink and teal are also.  All three are from knitpop.  The other teal fabric is Teal Space Dye Athletic Knit from Joanns.  It is awesome fabric.  I wish I had purchased more at the time. It’s out of stock now. 

The Pink/Black Set was made in Jan 2017. The Teal/Black set I finished up just last week.  The Teal Space Dye I made Dec 2016. 



Happy Sewing!
Kristin

3 Hoodies, 3 Tees

 Hoodies are my favorite thing to wear.  Cozy, snuggly, warm; what’s not to love?  My purple Jalie hoodie from April 2015 is getting a lot of wear so I decided to make another one.

Pattern:  Jalie 3355 Hoodie



Size: "U" for shoulders/bust/waist to "X" at the hip.  My purple one had stretch so it was looser, this one is a stable french terry so it is more snug. 



Instructions:  Great instructions!  A sheet of written instruction and a sheet of photos for each step. 



Fabric: 2.5 yards Heather Grey French Terry; 80% Cotton 20% Polyester; purchased in July 2015 from fashionfabricsclub for $8.25 total.  This stuff is fantastic!  I wish all the french terry I purchased would be like this. It is stable and moderately thick, yet soft. I also used about 1/2 yard of Charcoal  Cotton Lycra from Stylish Fabrics; purchased in Sep 2016. $3.45.  Total for hoodie including vinyl: $14.70 (vinyl says “there’s no place like home”)



Thoughts:  I love, love, love this hoodie.  I wear it all the time.  It is my favorite thing I have right now.



Pattern: Jalie 3355 Hoodie

Miss K wanted a purple hoodie exactly like my purple Jalie one.  She asked for it about a year ago and I now just got to making it. Oops! Size: Q for bust and height, R for waist.  Fabric: 1.75 yards Regal Purple Sweatshirt Fleece purchased from fashionfabricsclub in October 2015 for $11.38; Also, 1/2 yard of Purple and Mint Rayon Modal Knit, purchased in Dec 2014 from Purpleseamstress for $2; Total for Hoodie: $13.38. Thoughts:  It fits her perfectly and she is super happy with it.  I wanted to put a graphic on it but she wouldn’t allow it.



Pattern:  Patterns for Pirates Relaxed Raglan with Hoodie Add on



Size: Straight size Large. Fits exactly like a sweatshirt should.



Instructions: Fantastic.  These instructions hold your hand each step of the way and photos are provided for each step. 



Fabric: 1 yard Owl French Terry from Wanderlust Designs Custom Fabric on Facebook.  I purchased this in May 2016 on sale for $16.50; also 1 yard Red Scarlet French Terry from Stylish Fabrics; purchased in September for $7.50 – the red is thin and seems like it would pill easily.  I am tempted to take out the red and replace it with a heavier cotton terry in blue.  We will see. Total including vinyl: $27.00  (Vinyl says “dreamer, soulsearcher, wanderer”)



Thoughts:  I really like the pattern.  I like the fit of the raglan.  I’m just not happy with the red french terry.  It is much lighter and thinner than the owl fabric – which makes the sleeves feel heavy. 

Pattern:  Patterns For Pirates Relaxed Raglan



Size: M bust/waist to an XL at the hip.  Options: Short sleeve, Cut on the Shirt hemmed line, Round neck.   I slimmed 3 inches off each side seam from nothing at bust to 3” at waist to nothing at hip.  I like the slimmer fit.



Instructions: Fantastic.  These instructions hold your hand each step of the way and photos are provided for each step. 

Fabric: 1 yards Royal Blue Poly/Lycra Jersey Knit, 95% Polyester/5% Lycra, purchased in May 2016 from fabricmart with a coupon, $2.84. Also, 1/4 yard Laguna Stretch Cotton Jersey Heathered Knit Pepper, purchased from Fabric.com in March 2014 $1.48. Total for top: $4.32.

Thoughts: I made this top before the below top.  I loved the gray sleeves and blue body of the raglan.  I wasn’t sure if I liked the lightweight drape of the Poly knit.  It hasn’t been worn at all.  So, I decided to remake this top in all cotton lycra, as seen below.

Pattern:  Patterns for Pirates Relaxed Raglan



Size:  M bust/waist to an XL at the hip.  Options: Short sleeve, Cut on the Shirt hemmed line, Round neck.   I slimmed 3 inches off each side seam from nothing at bust to 3” at waist to nothing at hip.



Instructions: Fantastic.  These instructions hold your hand each step of the way and photos are provided for each step. 



Fabric: 1 yard Kaufman Laguna Stretch Jersey Knit Royal, purchased from Fabric.com in May 2016 for a tank for my husband (more on that later) but, it didn’t work out and so I repurposed it for this shirt,  $6.97. Also, 1/4 yard Charcoal 2 Tone-N Cotton Lycra Jersey Knit Fabric Combed 10oz, purchased from Stylish Fabric in Sept 2016 for $1.73. Total for shirt with vinyl: $11.70.

Thoughts: Well, I love the graphic however I think the shirt is too tight at the bust – I should have made a Large in the bust.  Also, I mistakenly cut it on the “Shirt Banded” like instead of the “Shirt Hemmed” line so I feel like it is too short.  Maybe I’ll try to add a band to it or maybe I’ll just scrap it.

Pattern:  Patterns For Pirates Relaxed Raglan

Size: XXS; Cut on “Shirt Banded” Line; Short sleeve option.



Fabric: 1/4 yard “Shattered Showers” Poly Jersey from Cuddle Muffins on Facebook.  I purchased yardage of this in March 2015 and like to use it sparingly to save hoard it; $5.25.  Also, 3/4 yard red cotton lycra that I’m not sure where I got or when.  Normally I pay $6.50 a yard for CL so we will say $4.88 for the 3/4 yard.  Total for shirt: $10.13



Thoughts: This looks great on K. It fits her well and she loves it. Win-win!

Tally: 3 hoodies, 3 tees; 3 wins, 3 so-so's; 4 for me, 2 for Miss K

Happy Sewing!
Kristin