Sewing With a Plan ~ Burda and Jalie

Sewing TNT’s really gives you a boost of confidence in your sewing.  

Burda 10/2014 #103

I’ve made this top 5 times now; It’s one of my favorites.



1. Color-Blocked 2. Aqua Tank 3. Rib Floral 4. Gray Contrast

Size: straight 42



Alterations:

• no hem added, it’s long enough. 
• sloped 1” out of back neck and tapered to nothing at back hem. 
• Added 1.25” to back at hip level.
• Lowered sleeve cap by 1/2” and added 1/4” to each side of sleeve.

Fabric: 1 yard Jewel Print ITY Knit from Maggy London; 95% polyester, 5% lycra; purchased in Nov 2015 from FabricMart with my Fabricista Challenge winnings. It was free for me but listed at $5/yard.

In January we added this little guy to our family. It’s so fun to watch a puppy learn things.

Jalie 3248 Drop Pocket Cardigan

Size: W graded to an AA at the hip.





Alterations: none



Fabric: 2 yards Black French Terry (506-BLACK) purchased in Aug 2016 for $12.90 from Stylish Fabrics.  It’s very soft, not too thick and not too thin.



I love this drop pocket design, plus there are double front pieces so they act as a full facing.  There aren’t many seams visible on this cardigan either – just the sides and sleeves.



I've made this cardi 2 other times. Once in a soft, thin Gray knit for me; and another time in a teal knit for Miss K (unblogged at this time).  The more times I sew it the easier the instructions become.

If you are following my Sewing with a Plan from Jan to April, these two makes are shown below in my plan.  I've now completed 4 of the 9 makes.

And here are more puppy pics, because… puppies!:




Happy Sewing!
Kristin

Fabricista Fashion Challenge Final Week!

Here we are at the final round of the Fabricista Fashion Challenge!  This has been a fun, busy, stressful time for me.  I pushed myself to make things that were out of my comfort zone; yet I also made some things that were totally me.  I am happy I was picked to participate, and enjoyed the challenge. 

This final week we were to take an article of clothing in our closet that we do not wear.  We then had to make 2 other pieces to go with this original item. 



A few years ago my Mom gave me this amazing jacket. It is my favorite color and I was so excited. Then it sat in my closet all this time because I felt I never had anything to wear with it. Sure I could have worn it with a pair of jeans and a top, but my closet is full of t-shirts and yoga pants. I currently do not have any jeans that fit me (though I hope to make a pair soon). So this jacket was the perfect item for this last challenge.



The pants were the hardest for me to decide upon. I tried 3 different patterns before tracing off a RTW pair that I borrowed from my Mom (thanks Mom!). I had issues with the other patterns in getting the crotch curve and thigh area just right for my pear shape.



They were all close, but not close enough for this last challenge. So after 4 muslins (1 of each pattern, and the RTW trace off), I set off to buy my fabric only to find that the one I had my mind on was not stretchy enough.



I’ll admit, I was a bit crushed. However, after some thought, I found this animal print fabric in the Ponte section. I wasn’t sold on it at first but after I sewed the pants and put them on, I am sold now! The fabric is so soft but heavy enough for pants. I am very happy and comfortable in them.



I know it is hard to see the details with the print, but there is a mock fly and fake front pockets. I didn’t want the bulk of any pockets in the front. There are pockets in the back as well as a yoke. The waistband has elastic encased and this is a pull on pant. All seams are serged. Topstitching was done with my cover stitch. These are one of the most comfortable pair of pants I own now.


I wanted to make this color block top for awhile now so I was set on making it to work with the jacket. This is a BurdaStyle Pattern (10/2014 #104, #103 is the same but without color blocking). The top is an envelope-type in that the back comes over to the front at the shoulders; it also has a slight cowl. It was time consuming to trace all the pieces, cut each color, and sew them together, but it was worth the trouble. I’ve made this envelope top 3 times before but not in color blocking.  I made a floral muslin; a gray long sleeve, and a blue sleeveless version.



I completed a ½” sway back adjustment, and a 1” full upper arm adjustment. I used a size 38 for the shoulders/high bust, a 40 for the bust/waist and graded out to a 48 for the hips. I was careful to match my seams so that everything would line up on point.



I cover stitched each color hem separately before serging the shirt together. I even switched out serger thread in the middle of a seam where the top goes from black to white because I did not want the threads showing to the front side.



I absolutely love this top; it is very much my style. I also love that it pulls the jacket and pants together into an outfit. This is something I can wear that is dressier than my tees and yoga pants, but still very comfortable.



Fabric for pants: 2.5 yards of Ponte Animal Print from Hancock Fabrics, purchased just for this challenge. $25
Straight sewing time for pants: 2 hours  (does not include tracing, fitting, muslin, or adjusting time)



Fabric for top: 1/4 yard white cotton lycra, a Fat Half blue cotton lycra, and 3/4 yard black cotton lycra.  The total was around $9.10. 
Straight sewing time for top: 2 hours  (does not include tracing, fitting, muslin, or adjusting time; Tracing and adjustment time was almost 3 hours itself!)

Want to see what the other finalists made for the last challenge?  Head on over to FabricMart’s Blog to see and vote for your favorite!

Burda Tanks 10/2014 #103 and 05/2007 #109A

We have had a few hot days lately and that brings tanks to my mind. 

First up is Burda 10/2014 #103; This is a long-sleeved top and dress in the magazine.  I made the top before in long-sleeve and loved it but it was too tight.

I was confused at how to sew the top initially.  Burda’s famous directions didn’t help me much at all.  I loved the top enough to buy the sew-a-long video for it.  After 40-some minutes of watching I really only needed 1-2 minutes of the video; however, it was worth it because I loved watching someone else sew and learned some new techniques.  In the video the gal mentioned turning the top into a tank – AWESOME!  So I had to try. 

Notes:

• The pattern states to add 5/8” seam to the back neck but then later tells you to trim it to 3/8”. So I just made it 3/8” to start with.
• I sewed a 38 in the shoulder and high bust, 40 in the bust, and 42 in the waist/hip.  I also added 1/2” to the back hip only (to accommodate for my large rear)
• I them measured the flat pattern and was happy with the results. 

Gosh I love a cowl neck top.  I’ll admit that my cotton/lycra was a bit stiff for the cowl but I still love it.

Fabric: 1 yard of Jade cotton lycra from Purpleseamstress.com $6.50

I tacked down (hand sewed) where the back crosses over the front by my neck. I found that without the tack the front didn’t like to lay right – it kept slipping to the armpit.  I also took 2” off the hem – it was super long (I’m 5’7”). I think it turned out great in fit and I can’t wait to try it in an ITY.

Next time I’ll add a 1/2” swayback

Up next is Burda 05/2007 #109A

I’ve made this tank twice before; once in blue/green stripes and the other in purple/gray stripes.

• This time I used size 40 in shoulders/42 in bust and hip.
• I added 1/2” to back hip only for my large rear.
• I adjusted for a 1/4” square shoulder, 1/2” swayback, and added 1” to front neckline.
• I used my binder attachment on my cover stitch to attach the binding.

Fabric: 1 yard Cherry Red Jersey Knit (cotton/lycra). I purchased it August of 2014 from fashionfabricsclub for $5.50.  It is thinner than the purpleseamstress knits.  In hindsight I should have used this for the cowl top and the other for this top, lol. 

I love this top, however I think I made it a bit tight and too short.  I will be remaking again in a bigger size and much longer!

I’ve been doing a lot of prepping patterns this last week.  I have 2 skirts traced, prewashed, and cut. I also have another tank ready to sew and a pair of underwear.  Now I just need time to sew them!  What is on your cutting table?

Burda 10/2014 #103 Envelope Top

While perusing the internet one day I stumbled upon this amazing Burda dress over at Frogs in a Bucket and knew I had to make one similar!  I have the issue, I even earmarked the top to make at a future time.  The best part is that I had just picked up some Ponte at Hancock's on sale that would work perfect.  The stars were in alignment!

Being the practical person I am, I wanted to try the top out and work out fit issues before moving on to the dress version.  I've lost some weight and my previous alterations just weren't working as before.

Burda 10/2014 #103


For my muslin I traced out a 38 shoulders/bust, 40 waist, and 42 hip from a super soft, brushed rib knit fabric.  This top has the envelope-look at the neck (which I love) so I didn't know how to approach a square shoulder adjustment. I just left them alone.
Alterations:
* added 1" to hip at back only for my large rear
* took 3" off sleeves (knew they were long going in and didn't want them that way)

When I put on my muslin the neckline was big on me. Too big.  The top looked all weird. Plus there was bagginess under my arms and through the bust.  I took in a TWO inch dart on the back neck and then 1/2" off the sides from armpit to waist. Tried it on again and it was much better. The sleeves are still too long and I'm not sure I like the length of the shirt.

The bad neckline. The bagginess everywhere. 

Now every review states how easy this top is to sew. So I began to think "what is wrong with me" when I just could not get the neck/shoulder stitching right. My brain refused to understand what Burda wanted.  "Lay back R sides together with front. Stitch upper edge of back along joining lines on front from each marking to seam #1"  From each marking? so do I stitch the triangle across the shoulder part even?  I thought the envelope front meant you didn't stitch the actual top shoulder. Sigh. Much frustration, seam ripping, flipping of material.  Whatever - I just did it my way. I put R side front to R side back and stitched across the triangle part where it shows on the front piece there.  Then I basted the armhole area. Done.

much better

Then we come to the neck "facing". Woah. So you sew this bias strip to the neckline but only to the marks. Then you flip it to the inside and it stops just before the front piece connects.  Well it's supposed to anyway.  Mine was a tad short so I suggest to leave extra on neck facing until you stitch it down all the way, then clip it, it can go under the front flap.

Clearly the rest of the shirt is easy peasy once you get past the neckline.  I did put the sleeves on in the flat - I don't enjoy setting in a sleeve. Also, what is up with Burda putting in 3" of ease in a knit sleeve?? THREE inches? WTH.

Fabric: Designer Brushed Baby Rib Knit Flowers Smoke, 65% poly, 35% cotton, Purchased Feb 2014 from fabric.com for $4.89/yard. Used 2 yards. Total: $9.78

Top #2
I transferred all the changes to the pattern and set off again. This time with a cotton lycra fabric.
Alterations this time:
*kept 1" added to hip at back for large rear
*took an additional 3/4" off sleeves for a total of 3.75"
*took 2" dart off back neck, sloped to nothing at hem
*tapered 1/2" off armpit to waist
*reduced sleeve cap by 3/4" for a length of 17.5" instead of 19"

This time I sewed the neck with exposed bias and sewed the back crossover to the front as visible.  I like this look. Reminds me of the Bronte Top.

Fabric: Heather Grey Jersey Knit, 95% cotton, 5% lycra, 9.5oz/yard.  2.25 yards purchased August 2014 at $5.50/yard from fashion fabrics club. $11.00 (did not use all the 2.25 yards though). The bias strip is a scrap from Laguna Stretch Cotton Jersey Heathered Knit Pepper, Robert Kaufman.

I was all excited and tried it on. Too tight. UGH, what the heck!  Well, this fabric was considerably more stable and less stretch than the rib knit, I should have known better.  The saddest part is that I am in love with this version.

Hmm. Well....

Ugh. Too tight. 

In all fairness the pattern says to use a "fine stretch jersey".  The cowl draped way better on the rib knit, it tries to stand up on the jersey version. I'll have to think about this before I head into making the dress version.

** Thanks to Levone who pointed out to me that BurdaStyle offers a video "how to" of making this top, but in the dress version! You have to pay for the video $7.99, but it might be better to invest in a one month subscription to the videos with Burda for $19.99. **

~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~