Sunnysewing MOVED to Wordpress in 2019

I'm tired of fighting with Blogger.  In 2019 I switched to blogging on Wordpress.  No new posts will be here.  (I did add some of the posts from wordpress below but they are riddled with mistakes and coding crossover errors - it has been extensive work and I decided I will just continue to blog at wordpress).

I'll leave my old blog up because I refer to it often. But I'd be super happy if you would follow me over on my new blog.


New posts will be at

Sunnysewing.com

Hope to see you there! And thanks for reading!

~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~

New Jalie Pattern Tina Essential Tees (and dress) 4672

A few months ago I tested the new Jalie 4672 Tina Essential Tees pattern (that Jalie just now released an add-on to turn it into a dress as well!)

I’ve been laying low and working on my mental and physical health but it’s about time I posted my review.

Jalie 4672 Tina Essential Tees

My Measurements at the time: Bust 40.5”, Waist 37”, Hip 47”

Size Used: Y for bust and waist, and BB for hip. This is a common sizing in all patterns I sew as I am pear shaped. I choose View A – short sleeve and scoop neck.  There are so many options in this one pattern!  Necklines: Crew, Scoop, V-neck, and Mock neck. Sleeves: Cap, short, and long.  Plus, Jalie also recently released an add on for making this pattern into a dress with options for A-line or flared bottom and mid-thigh, above-knee, or maxi length with pockets! I can’t wait to make those versions!  What a great amount of options for one pattern! Not to mention that it comes in an array of sizes from Toddler 2T to Plus Size 5x (max bust 64” and hip 61”).  There are also video tutorials to help in sewing this pattern.

 

Fabric Used: 60” wide, 1 yard + 30 inches of heathered double brushed poly knit. Stretch percentages: 65% width and 65% height. “Fabric Merchants Double Brushed Jersey Knit Red Two Tone. Contents 96% Polyester/4% Lycra Spandex). I had 27 inches left over after cutting. So, I used about 1 and 1/8 yards. The pattern calls for 1.25 for my size and I think that is perfect!

Alterations: ½” forward shoulder adjustment. I do this with every top I make. 1” bicep adjustment to sleeve width (slash and spread to add 1” to the width of the bicep), this is super common for me in most sleeves as I have big biceps (and not the athletic type LOL).

Instructions: no issues. I like the direct to the point instructions and the accompanying photos. These do not hold your hand, but they are perfectly enough instruction. Pattern Pieces: No issues. All notches and marks matched up for me.

I must say, I love the “cut 2 sleeves” and not cut 2 on fold!! I also loved the finished measurement chart. On the finished measurement, the description on top says the pattern has negative ease and should be considerably smaller than the body measurements. However, I did not find this to be true. I actually liked the ease in the shirt. It is not skin tight and not too loose, just right.

Personal preference is that I sew the neckband before sewing the size seams, and that I pre-press the hems up on sleeves and bodice before sewing the side seams while they are still flat. But I don’t feel the instructions on the pattern are wrong in any way, it is just a personal preference.

 

I like the length of the top. I think it hits at a perfect spot. I like the length of the sleeves. I wasn’t expecting such nice ease to be honest, because Jalie’s similar T-shirt pattern, 2805, is quite a bit tighter (I have sewn 2805 a few times, I show 7 times on my 2805 label on my old blog but I counted 11+ when I searched for it. It used to be my go-to for rash guards for Miss K as well as a nice tee). So I love that I with this tee I can suck in or push out my thyroid, menopause belly and it still looks good. I gave a photo example below, lol. There’s also nice length when lifting arms to not show stomach.

Summary: Fabric measurements are perfect. All pieces and notches match up. I would and will definitely wear this tee in all 3 views. It matches the size measurement chart perfectly so that I don’t have to bump up a size. I like the ease and it is not too form fitting. I think it is a great layering piece or a great tee to wear on its own.

Sucked in stomach:

pushed out stomach:

Hope you are all doing well!

Happy Sewing! Kristin

Jalie 4673 Kim Fold over Flared Pants Pattern

Jalie 4673 Kim Fold over waist shorts and flared pants pattern in Child size 2 all the way to Adult 5x I LOVE this style of pants and jumped on the chance to test them.  That being said, I am very opinionated and only voice my opinions.  Just because I tested the pattern doesn’t mean I will say only nice things

  

Anyway, back to the pattern. Sizing: My Measurements at the time: Waist 37”, Low (Thyroid/Menopause) Waist 40.75”, Hip 48”. Size Used: straight CC, View B

 

Alterations: ½” knock knee adjustment. I have to do this with every pair of pants I make. I definitely stand knock kneed and it was a life changing adjustment once I found it! So, the pattern stays the same in a sense; but you borrow some from the outside hip to knee and move it to the inside crotch to knee to accommodate larger inner thighs that touch together when standing. Pics shown here below on what I did.  If you want more info on the knock knee adjustment I have pictures of the book page with the adjustment explained in this post (near the end).  No other adjustments were made (though usually I lower the rise considerably in pants to be below my larger low waist, I did not do that for the test).  I still have extended calves and haven’t made that adjustment yet in pants.  Sometimes you just want pants and sometimes so many adjustments in my head – some aren't there yet.

 

Fabric Used: 60” wide, 2 yards of Double Brushed Poly, I would say this is a thinner DBP. Normally for pants I like a thicker interlock or Ponte but I know a more stable knit wouldn’t have the stretch I needed and required by the pattern, so I chose the lighter DBP.  In the end I am happy I made that choice as these aren’t too tight at all.  Fabric stretch percentages: 60% width and 60% height. Contents Polyester Lycra Spandex. I had just .25 yard left after cutting. So, I used exactly what the pattern calls for (1.75yd), for my size, and I think that is perfect!

 

Pattern:  I actually used the recommended cutting layout on the pattern for once, lol.  Normally I just go all willy-nilly and do what I want to get the pieces to fit on the fabric and on the right grain.  But this time I chose to use the recommended layout and it worked great! I used A0 copy shop file to print. I used layers and picked only size BB, CC, and DD, because at first I thought I would need to grade my pattern between sizes like I always do.   However, with my now lovely over 45, menopause body, my lower waist seems to match for the most part with the hip size listed.  So I went with a straight CC. Pattern Pieces: No issues. All notches and marks matched up for me.

 

Instructions: Well written and easy to follow as all Jalie usually are.  There are worded instructions on the left side and photos of the steps on the right side. The elastic listed is 1” wide and for my CC is 38 5/8” – this amount did not equal to much stretch for the elastic to go onto the pants. It did fit my larger lower waist comfortably but could be a bit more snug, by maybe an inch. Personal preference here – I prefer 1.5” elastic for pants waistbands but that is only because I find it more comfortable on my sensitive stomach.

 

Garment Fit: Overall fit and issues:  I like the length of the pants. The fit is great with my lightweight fabric. I LOVE the style. These are totally my favorite style of pants to wear. I wish there was more flare though. I can’t wait to make the fold over waist version. I do plan to lower the rise to my liking (a few inches, maybe 3” in the front and 1” in the back).  Also, I feel I should size up by 1 if I want to make them with thicker interlock or ponte fabric. The lightweight dbp worked great for this test but lets be honest, this lighter DBP shows every lump and bump in pants, lol.  I do think any cotton lycra, poly spandex, bamboo spandex, most athletic knits and even my favorite ITY fabric with nice stretch and medium to lighter weight would work great in the intended size.  But if using a stable, thicker knit like interlock, ponte, scuba, jacquard, supplex, then a size up is warranted. *(Wearing with my Jalie Jeanne Top 4016)* 

A lot of people are asking about this pattern compared to other somewhat similar Jalie pants? So, I own and have made these similar Jalie patterns. Jalie 3022 –  Sewn 9x now. 3022 has a seam up the back leg of the pattern and a very different waistband.  That said, I still love 3022, but this new pattern, 4673 Kim, is much faster to sew, has less pieces, and I hate to say, a bit more comfortable.  I will still sew up 3022, but I also plan on making 4673 as well. 1. Dec 2014 Black plain  2. Dec 2014 Black for Miss K 3. Feb 2015 Hunter Green 4. Jun 2015 Green Shorts 5. Jun 2015 Teal Pants 6. Oct 2015 Black and White 7. Mar 2017 Navy Cotton Lycra 8. Apr 2019 in black 9. May 2019 in navy Jalie 2445 – Sewn 5 times now.  This pattern is very similar but is much older and works for thicker knits like velour, sweatshirt knit and French terry.  It only goes up to a 50” hip where the new one above goes to 66 1/8”.  2445 also is a straight leg, not flare and it has a drawstring wide waistband, not fold over or 1” elastic. I have tried and tried to get 2445 to work for me and for some reason, that pattern just doesn’t fit me right.  However, I sewed the last pair well before working through my alterations I now use so maybe I’ll try again.  Oh, it also has more ease in the legs than the new pattern, 4673. Made before:  1. Apr 2016 a red sweatshirt shorts, 2. purple cotton lycra for Miss K, 3. May 2017 black and white pair for me. 4. 2016 pink sweatshirt shorts, and 5. 2017 black french terry shorts. BurdaStyle 11/2007 No. 122 – Honorable mention.  I have to mention this similar pattern even though it is not Jalie.  This pattern is very similar – though not everyone has access to this issue as it is older.  It is one of my very beloved patterns much like Jalie 3022 mentioned above.  Differences are that the waistband is only fold over, no elastic option – thought this is easy to alter (and I have), and has more flare I have sewn this pattern 7 times – so a lot but not as many as Jalie 3022, lol. 1. Sept 2017 black stripe for Miss K, 2.Dec 2017 Red yoga for me, 3. Dec 2017 purple stripe for me, 4. Dec 2019 red xmas pjs for Miss K, and 5. Aug 2020 my favorite pair of gray french terry pants for me. 6. Apr 2020 Fruit DBP for for K and 7. Jan 2022 Tie-Dye Rayon spandex for K.

Happy Sewing!

Kristin