Thursday, August 29, 2019

2 Misses;M4M Vivienne and Jalie Pika

I do not enjoy sewing fails.  Generally if I fail at a pattern I will rework it a few times to make sure – and generally I keep coming up with a fail each time! (Hello Jalie Eleonore's)! 

Most of the time the reason for the fail is one of two things: a. that the pattern doesn’t work for my body shape, or b. the fabric is the wrong choice. 

Today I have 2 patterns here that I loved the look of; I was so excited to make them and then neither turned out well for my body shape. 

Made For Mermaids – Vivienne

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My measurements at the time: 39 bust, 32 waist, 46 hip

Size Sewn: Bust- Indigo; Waist- Green; Hip- Yellow

Started sewing this in July and then banned it to “the pile” to be chopped up for something else or revisited at a later time.

I sewed up the top length.  I used double brushed poly because I love how soft it is and I though the drape would work well. 

I used fold over elastic in the waist area to hold the gather shape because regular elastic makes me itchy. 

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I got it all sewn up except the arm and neck bands and hem; when I tried it on I didn’t like it at all. 

It makes me look pregnant and lays funny on the hips due to the gathers only being in the front and back, not on the side panels.

I feel like the waist part sits too low on me.  It needs to be higher like an empire to hit my natural waist.

Jalie Pika

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My measurements at the time: 38 bust, 31.5 waist, 41 high hip.

Size Sewn: W at bust/waist to Z at hip

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Started sewing it in June 14th, 2019 and probably not finishing it.

Alterations: I added 1/2” to the back hip tapering to 0” at the waist to accommodate for my larger rear. I did not add a hem band, wanting to keep it loose and flowing by the hips.

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On step 18-19 the elastic is NOT long enough to stitch and not stretch. it was like 3.5 inches short.

Fabric: The inner bra I used gray cotton lycra; the outer I used a turquoise triblend jersey that I purchased in May 2017 from knitpop for $5/yard.  It is super soft.

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I like the fabric and like the look of the top – on others.  I tried it on and I felt so frumpy and larger due to no waist definition.  I really wanted this to work – you guys know I love my Jalie patterns!

I don’t think either of these are bad patterns.  I just feel like they work for someone of a different shape than me.  A pear shape needs that waist definition. 

Thursday, August 8, 2019

Mens Boxers - Jalie, Suat, M4m

I’ve made Mr. Sunny boxers over the last few years.  I used to use Stitch Upon a Time’s Boxerwear pattern in the beginning, but ever since Jalie came out with the Gerald pattern; he likes those better.  I also recently tried the M4M pattern.

So here is a roundup of the pairs I haven’t yet blogged.  I’ll start most recent and work backwards.

M4M – Gables (fail)

Size: straight XL

Options/Alterations:  Fabric enclosed elastic waist; long length

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Sewn: June 14, 2019

Fabric: heathered blue athletic knit that I think I got in a Zenith and Quasar mystery box.  1/2 yard. Soft Gray fold over elastic from SewSassy website. (best FOE I’ve found).

Instructions: The instructions are fine.  No issues.  The pattern pieces have an issue.  For some reason the top of the fly is 1/2” too short.  It doesn’t match up when putting together. 

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Also, I use 1.5” sport elastic because it’s softer so I need to add 1/2” more in height to the waistband for a full casing.  I found the waistband piece was too short for that; however it did end up catching my elastic nicely in the seam when serging so no shifting or rollover.

Verdict:  WAYYYYY to tight. Comically tight.  I laughed, hard.  These were not a favorite and he couldn’t even wear them past the initial fit test.

Jalie – Gerald 3885 (winner)

Size: CC

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Options/Alterations: the dark gray pair I did the “saxx hack” although I put it in wrong, he still wears them.  I should have put the side flaps on top of the topmost flap there, not under them.

To make the flaps I just took the fly piece and traced off about 1.5” wide starting at the side; cut two pieces and used FOE to go down the nonseam side.

The space dyed blue with red stitching are the longer length whereas the gray are the shorter length.

Mr. Sunny likes the longer length in the winter because they don’t ride up but in the summer the longer length shows under his shorts sometimes so he prefers the shorter length for summer.

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Sewn: gray on Feb 14, 2019 and blue on June 8th, 2018

Fabric: Dark gray athletic brushed knit with Black Fold over elastic.  I got this fabric in a mystery box from Zenith & Quasar

The blue pair is Navy space dye poly spandex performance tech knit fabric from stylish fabric, purchased in July 2017.  The fabric is soft, slippery and has a cooling feeling. $7.20/yard, used 1/2ish yard.

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Instructions: Fantastic. No issues.

Verdict: he loves these.  Really loves the fit.  Says they are almost perfect; he just would like them an inch higher in the back rise.

Stitch Upon A Time – Boxerwear (great pattern)

Size: XL

Options/Alterations: Low rise in front, normal rise in back.

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Sewn: gray with teal mushroom on July, 7th 2017; red and black horde on June 13, 2017

Fabric: all cotton lycra most likely purchased from purpleseamstress.  I added the 1up and mushroom with my embroidery machine. I added the Lok’tar Ogar and Horde symbol with heat transfer vinyl.

For obvious reasons the embroidery holds up much better, where the vinyl starts to peel off after about 100 washes.

The vinyl feels much better on the skin though because the embroidery stitching is a bit scratchy.  I put Sulky soft & sheer behind the mushroom to combat the scratchy feeling.

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Instructions: Instructions are great, straightforward and no issues. I like that the options are given for no seaming to be on the sides of the fly.

Verdict: He likes these quite a bit.  I’ve also made these before for him (aug 2015 black and blue, and Apr 2016 Ewoks).  It’s a great pattern and I would use it again. 

I’ve found that the cotton lycra doesn’t withstand wash and wear as much as the athletic knits above.  These two pair have already had to be tossed due to holes where the athletic knit ones look new still. 

However, the cotton lycra ones are definitely softer to wear.

Thanks for reading!

Kristin

Thursday, August 1, 2019

Laundry Day Tee - Love Notions and another M4M - Chloe Skirt

While scrolling through my phone this ad kept popping up for a tank top.  After seeing it about 15 times I thought, Hey I should copy that.  So I did.

Laundry Day Tee – Love Notions

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Made before: Black tunic tee in April 2017

Started Sewing: 06/29/19    Finished Sewing: 07/01/19

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Measurements at this time: High bust 37, Bust 39, Waist 32, Hip 46

Size Sewn: Medium with a length of Large (I sized down because I remember it being large before; however my notes from before say to make an even smaller size next time S bust and M waist/hip, oops!)

Alterations/Options Made: Tank option, 1/2” forward shoulder, Made Armbands 2” x 21.5”

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This was too big and frumpy at first. So I went back after I was finished and took 1/2” off the sides from bust to 3” above the hip. Then I took out 1” off from hem/hip and blended it to the 3” above the hip 1/2” off. Much better!

Fabric: "American Beauty Pink Roses on Pale Aqua," med-weight, 4way stretch, double brushed poly spandex, $8.50 a yard. Pattern took 1 yard.  Purchased Nov 2017 from Purpleseamstress

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Thoughts: Love it!  I think it looks very similar to the RTW one I was copying.  I’ve worn it a ton of times already.  Can’t wait to make more!  It is perfect on it’s own and also under a cardigan.

Future: Changed paper pattern to reflect the 1” off hem/hip to 1/2” off waist bust. No other changes needed for future.

Made For Mermaids – Chloe Maxi Skirt

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Made before: Gray heathered stripe in June 2019, also used the skirt for this modified floral Boundless dress from Mar 2018

Measurements at this time: 31.5 waist, 46 hip

Size Sewn: Waist Indigo, the rest Green

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Alterations Made: Added 2” to hem, took 1/8” off waist on each side of skirt portion;  Waistband was way too tight in this cotton lycra.  took off and recut at 32.5” instead of 31.5”

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Fabric: 2 yards Turquoise cotton poly jersey.  Purchased from Knitpop in April 2017 for $5.10/yard so $10.20 total for the skirt. Waistband was a small bit of Deep Seafoam Cotton lycra purchased from FabricMart in Mar 2018 for $1.99/yard. It has excellent recovery which I think is why it was so tight at the normal waistband length.

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Thoughts: I love all maxi skirts.  I enjoy having something I can throw on quickly and it keeps me looking nice yet feeling cool on those hot summer days.

Future: I think I have the pattern worked out now.  I hope to make a basic Navy one and a gray one too.

P4P Boundless as a top and Greenstyle Chelsea Pants

I apologize if this post is a repeat to some of you.  I’m having issues with Bloglovin not showing my posts; and now my Open Live Writer is acting up again; oh and my photos are blurry too.  Technology...... UGH.

Way back when (Jan 2019) I made winter sewing plans.  I’ve still been working on those plans.  I have 4 of the 10 made and 2 more muslins in progress.  Here are 2 things from those plans.

Patterns for Pirates – Boundless dress as a top




I made this back in Jan 2019 and haven’t gotten around to taking pictures.  I was waiting for the pants to be finished to go with it.


Size: Large, empire waist, 3/4 sleeves.


Alterations: 1/2” forward shoulder, raised back neck 5.5”, did 3/4” hem.  for the bottom piece that is gathered I made a trapezoid shape. 26” across the top slanting to 29.5” at the bottom hem and 15” tall.  On the inside I attach fold over elastic around the waist where the gathers are.  I do this without stretching the elastic at all. This makes sure the gathers stay nice, do not stretch out, and the FOE is soft enough that it doesn’t irritate my skin like regular or clear elastic does (allergy to latex).


Fabric: 2 yards black roses floral double brushed poly.  purchased in dec 2016 from knitpop


Thoughts: love love love.  I love everything about this top.

Future: no changes to make.



Greenstyle - Chelsea Yoga Pants


These pants were my hold up.  I made a pair according to my measurements in January and they were waaaay to tight – like skin tight booty pants, and that is not a look I’m trying to achieve.  So I put the booty pants aside and measured the pattern flat – which showed why they did not fit me.  My measurements put me in an XL but the flat measurements showed I needed to make a 3XL.

In March I made the 3xl size finally and they fit all sorts of weird.  They were too high in the waist, the crotch felt weird, the waist was too big and the butt had issues.  I put them aside and moved on for the time being.

Well, fast forward from March to July and now I’ve gained 20 lbs; so I put on the 3XL pants the other day…. and they fit.  Fit just fine actually – I mean well enough to wear in public.  ha!  So here are my Chelsea pants to go with my above top – in the middle of July – oh and did I mention my pants are FLEECE lined! hahahahaha.

We will start with the larger ones first (the second pair)


Size: 3xl, medium rise.

Alterations: scooped butt curve by 1/2”, sloped more to the waist by taking in 1/4” at mid butt curve and then 3/8” at top of butt curve by waist.  Added 1/4” to outer hip at waist, added 3/8” at outer hip curve – did this to compensate for the sloping of the curve at CB as well as the scooping.


Fabric: 1.5 yards “Black Sweatshirt fleece”, plush brushed fleece back, can be used for activewear.  4 way stretch. Purchased Feb 2018 from fashionfabricsclub for $3.94/yard. so $5.91 total.


Thoughts: I love the front seam on these.  I love the flare.  I’m glad they fit me now.  I think the midrise is too high for my liking. I would like to lower the front rise by 1/2-3/4”



Future: It will depend, if I lose weight I will try the 2xl size and go from there.  I will do low rise from now on.


Here are the weird fit pics from Mar before I gained weight. same pair of pants.




OK now on to the 1st pair I made:

Size: Large at waist to XL hip and elsewhere.  midrise.

Alterations: scooped butt curve 1/2” added 1/8” to back leg inseam and 1/4” to front leg inseam.  added 3/4” to hem. 



Fabric: 1.25 yards Black nylon/lycra fleece-back knit from fabricmart fabrics. purchased in a mystery bundle May 2017.  Cost $1.20 for the piece. 30% stretch selvage to selvage

Thoughts: way too tight. skin tight. These instagram pics were the only ones I snapped of these pants and if they were skin tight in Jan, then there is no way I’m even getting a leg in one of these now!


~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~