Tons of Tank–Ellie & Mac, Petite Stitchery, and Jalie

Pattern: Ellie & Mac – Curved Hem Tank (FREE!!!) Measurements at this time:

• high bust 39 inches
• bust 42 inches
• waist 37 inches
• hip 48.5 inches

Size Sewn: L bust, XL waist, XXL hip Started and finished Sewing: 07/15 & 07/16/2022 Adjustments:

• I made 1/2-inch forward shoulder adjustment
• Lowered pocket by an inch
• Widened neck & strap bindings to 1.5” and sewed ½” seam allowance. They were too skinny on original pattern
•  Pet Peeve: the Curved hem doesn’t have notches outward so it doesn’t meet the edges at the hem (picture below).

Fabric: a yard of floral aqua double brushed poly I had. No Idea when and where I got it. Some scrap pack. Thoughts: OMG. I freaking LOVE this tank!! I don’t know why I held off so long on making it. The dbp drapes just right and it hangs nicely and doesn’t show my thyroid belly. I feel comfortable and pretty in it. I wore it almost every day I could from July to September when it got too cold.  The tiny pocket makes me smile.

I was hesitant about the seam down the center back but holy cow! I am sold! It took away my swayback issue immediately and I love how it curves over my but with no issues or bumps.

The pattern is FREE and I waited this long to make it. I was missing out! Now I am thinking, how can I add sleeves to this pattern to make it an amazing t-shirt.

Pattern: Ellie & Mac – Curved Hem Tank (FREE!!!) Yes, I made it AGAIN because I loved the first one so much. Made previously: in the aqua floral shown above this one. Measurements at this time:

• high bust 39 inches
• bust 42 inches
• waist 37 inches
• hip 48.5 inches

Size Sewn: same. L bust, XL waist, XXL hip Started and finished Sewing: 10/03/22 Adjustments:

• I made 1/2-inch forward shoulder adjustment
• Lowered pocket by an inch
• Widened neck & strap bindings to 1.75” and sewed ½” seam allowance. They were too skinny on original pattern

Fabric: scraps from my cotton deer jersey that I used to make this Lekala 4321 top.   Gray Scuba Blue Triangle Stag on White Cotton Jersey Blend Knit Fabric. 50% Cotton/50% Poly.

I used 1 yard. I purchased it 07/08/15 for $6.60/yard.

Thoughts: I wore the crap out of my first E&M tank and was just itching to make another. It drapes a little different in the cotton jersey as opposed to my first double brushed poly. But I love it nonetheless. Now I need to hack the pattern to add sleeves and make a ton of t shirts!! Pattern: Petite Stitchery – Swing Tank (also called Swanky Tank) and is also FREE Measurements at this time:

• high bust 39 inches
• bust 42 inches
• waist 39 inches
• hip 49.5 inches

Size Sewn: bust – XXL, Waist – 1X, Hips –1X Started and finished Sewing: 11/15/22 Adjustments:

• Used the modest shoulder option
• XL @ shoulder and neck to XXL bust to 1X waist and hip
• ¼” Forward Shoulder adjustment
• The neckline was too “choke-y” so I lowered it 1” down in front to 0” at the shoulders
• I made the neckband 1”x19.75” not the 1”x15.25” called for. I couldn’t get the smaller neckband over my head even!!!

Fabric: 1 yard, 1 inch of a double brushed poly daisy print that I got somewhere somehow, most likely a a scrap pack Thoughts: I don’t like the bands sewn, then rolled inside on wrong side of fabric, then topstitched. I find this difficult, slower, and then trimming sucks. I prefer just to zip the bands on, flip them to the outside and topstitch.

*Pet Peeves* The neckband wasn’t cut on a fold, no waist markings. The fabric cutting guide is super funny. No way would anyone cut their fabric like that. It really wastes fabric. I cut the “normal way” of flipping both selvages to meet in the middle and cutting tank front on one side and tank back on other side, then bands below. Because of the wonky cutting suggestion the pattern asks for 1 7/8 yard of fabric. ALMOST 2 yards for a tank?? No way. I cut it my way described and got a size 1X out of 1 yard, 1inch.

The tank is okish. I’m not a fan really. The neck is way too high for me even though I lowered it. There is way too much side boob showing. The armscyes are really low. A 1X size in this pattern is the same as a size L in love notions patterns. I realize I’m not petite, but the pattern was free and I’ve seen other non-petite people make it on Facebook. I thought I would give it a go. And I don’t care for it so I won’t be making it again.

Pattern: Jalie 3245 tank - from the time vault LOL. I started this MAY 14^th, 2017 and then it became a UFO because I didn’t like the fit. Made previously: Back in 2015 I made 2 muslins and a purple cotton lycra tank. I just couldn’t seem to get this pattern to fit me right. I also made 3 of these tanks for Miss K and of course they fit her perfectly. Measurements NOW:

• high bust 39 inches
• bust 42 inches
• waist 37 inches
• hip 48.5 inches

My measurements BACK WHEN I CUT IT OUT:

• 37.5 bust
• 31 waist
• 45 hip

Size Sewn BACK THEN: V bust, W waist, X hip (so way smaller than my current size, therefore it will be tight in my pictures). Started and finished Sewing: Started MAY 2017, finished AUGUST 2022.

I sewed up the shoulders and sides back in May 2017. Then didn’t like the fit and left it in the UFO pile all these years and 2 house moves. I pulled it out August 2022 and decided to finish it. I had to hem the bottom and add bands to the arms and neck. Well I lost the arm bands so I was like, whatever, at this point I’m finishing it. I switched the armbands to black dbp. I think it works since there are black heathering in the design of the green knit.

Adjustments: none that I see on the pattern Fabric: green heathered knit, little stretch. I don’t know where or when I purchased it. Thoughts: I have been desperately trying to make this pattern work for me for YEARS because I love the look of it. I want that Raglan tank Dress. It baffles me because the newer, similar pattern 3667 Marie Caude fits me like a glove. It fits perfectly. So why can’t I get 3245 to fit!!! Ugh. I will be laying the patterns over each other to see where the issue is at some point. (marie claudes made: black semi sheer one from Apr 2018 a ton. The one I made in Dec 2017 in I loved the fit but the fabric was just not right for me. Oh! I also made a hooded one for Miss K in Dec 2017 too. And my navy rayon spandex one.

Anyway, back to this old UFO that is now finally finished but too small for me now.  in the beginning in 2017 I hated those damn under bust lines. I didn’t understand how to get rid of them.  I think now I know more about adjustments and my body that I can fix that.  I think the bust point needs raised, or less fabric underbust and more fabric for my butt.  In 2022 pictures there are no bust drag lines because my bust fills it out. in 2020 there are bust drags and in 2017 there are big bust drag lines.  Maybe I needed a small bust adjustment.  Either way, I’m just glad it’s finished and I will wait until I can wear it again if I lose some weight.

Happy Sewing! Kristin

Sewing Mojo-nojo

Sewing has slowed to a halt in this house lately.  I just can't seem to get out of my funk.  I bought new fabric and patterns, but they didn't spark me to sew at all.  I have things I want to make and things I need  to make. I just can't seem to make!

K has refused to take decent photos of things I've made her and I've run into terrible fitting problems for myself.  It is discouraging to have wadder, after wadder.

Nonetheless, here are some makes I sewed up about a week to two weeks ago.

Kwik Sew 3498 Yoga Pants

I foolishly bought this pattern thinking it was for women, lol. Imagine my surprise when I realized it was a girls pattern. K's measurements put her at the topmost size of XL. I traced and held up the pattern to K and realized it was too long,  I took out 2.5" at the lower L/S line on the calf. 

This is a super fast sew. The waistband is double wide and a fold over so 4 layers of fabric end up holding up the pants. Normally I put elastic into this type of waistband but these held up just fine. They were the perfect width.

The pants look great and fit perfectly - if not a smidgen too tight. K liked the rise and had no complaints. She just didn't want pictures taken, lol. This is a great basic pattern for girls. Fabric is 1 yard of lilac cotton lycra from purple seamstress for $6.50

Jalie 3245
This pattern, oh. The pain and anguish. I love the look, the simplicity, the easy sew-ability.  And that is were the good ends. I can't seem to get this pattern to fit me correctly no matter what I do. My hands were thrown up in the air and I just had to walk away.  I made two muslins and they just weren't working.  I'm not sure if I will come back to it or just find another tank pattern.

The problem? Terrible huge drag lines from bust to hip. I've had this problem with this dress below in the past and still haven't figured out why. Other patterns I don't have this problem with. So what gives! lol. I refuse to but a bust dart in a knit, I just need to figure out a different solution. Plus my knits are super stretchy, and the dress below wasn't. *shrug*

Anyway, I used a floral Hatckhi knit blend of poly, rayon, and lycra (which I realize I threw away before taking a picture of, oops).  I used 7/8 yard for $3.50. Purchased at Fashionfabricsclub Jan 2015. I'm not fond of this fabric so it was the perfect muslin.  It turned out horrid fitting. The purple is cotton lycra. I tweaked the fit of it a bit in the front and back shaping and it didn't fit much better. 1 yard at $6.50

Now for K on the other hand, of course the pattern works great. These tanks take so little fabric and look real cute.  I used my binder attachment on my coverstitch for the neck and armholes. This was so fast and easy compared to the directions, lol.

The first tank was a muslin with scrap fabric. It turned out cute but long.

The second and third tanks I shortened by 2" and they are perfect now. (of course no pics from K) Sizes are O for the shoulders and bust, S for the waist, and P for the hip.

Each fabric was 3/4 yard. The rainbow one was a nice rayon jersey but off grain. I bought it off fabricstalkers on facebook Feb 2015 for only $4. Yellow cotton lycra was used for the bands.
The second one I used scraps from this Ottobre tunic I made for myself and loved. The front is a geometric sweater knit from fabricmart in Sept 2013 and the pink is cotton lycra scraps.  So this one was about $5.

 

~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~