Tips for Sewing with Chiffon

Chiffon has a bad reputation as being one of the most difficult fabrics to sew with.  Chiffon is a lightweight, sheer fabric made from polyester, cotton, or silk. It is slippery, shifty, and frays very easily.  However, I have some tips for you so that sewing with chiffon is no longer a challenge.  If this is your first time sewing with chiffon I suggest using an easy pattern with few curves and minimal seams.

The following topics will be covered in this tutorial:

• Prepping
• Cutting
• Sewing
• Hemming

Supplies needed:

• Chiffon Fabric
• Small universal needle - size 9(65)
• Plain Gelatin (enough for ¼ cup)
• Bucket or tub large enough to cover fabric with water
• Thread for fine fabrics (polyester, silk, or mercerized cotton; sometimes sold as lingerie thread)
• Rotary Cutter and mat OR scissors and tissue paper
• Pattern, iron and pressing cloth, sewing machine, and/or serger
• Wonder Clips or Fine Pins

 
Tips for Prepping Chiffon:
The single most important tip I have to make Chiffon less challenging to sew is to first give the fabric a gelatin bath. This makes the fabric stiffer to sew with, resulting in less shifting. Once the project is finished, a quick hand wash removes the gelatin and the fabric returns to its normal drape and texture.

To give the fabric a gelatin bath, fill a bucket or tub with warm water and add ¼ cup gelatin.

Stir for 2 minutes so gelatin dissolves.

Add fabric and make sure to submerge.  Then push out any large air bubbles, and stir the fabric around for a minute to ensure the gelatin is being distributed in the fabric.

Leave to sit for at least 30 minutes (I let mine sit an hour just to be safe). After the soak time has ended remove the fabric and place on a bathroom towel. Roll the towel up carefully to remove some of the moisture from the fabric.



Do not twist or squeeze the fabric because it will remove the gelatin; we just want to remove some of the moisture. Then place fabric to dry on as flat a surface as can be found.

When the fabric is dry it is ready to be cut.

 
Tips for Cutting Chiffon:

• Use a cutting mat and rotary cutter
• Use pattern weights instead of pins (I use tuna cans). If you must use pins, use pins for fine fabrics and pin only in the selvage.
• Cut pattern pieces as a single layer, cut nothing on a fold.
• If using scissors, place tissue paper under the fabric as well as the pattern tissue paper on top to create a sandwich (as seen below, however you will want to cut through all three layers at the same time). This helps stabilize the fabric while cutting.

 
Tips for Sewing Chiffon:
Set the needle stitch length to 2mm or 12 stitches per inch. This is a short stitch length that should be used for lightweight fabrics.

Use wonder clips instead of pins to hold fabric together



Instead of sewing a reverse stitch, hold the ends of the loose thread toward the back of your machine when starting to sew.  Then tie the ends of the string in a knot to lock the first and last stitch.



If the machine tries to eat the fabric, slip a strip of tissue paper under the fabric while sewing. It can be torn or washed away when finished and keeps the fabric from getting pulled into the needle plate. Also, if you have a straight stitch needle plate and/or straight stitch foot, use them. 

Sew seams with French seams because serged seams can be seen from the outside of the garment.



Press from wrong side of fabric, use a pressing cloth and no steam. The temperature should be a low setting such as for synthetics.

Tips for Hemming Chiffon:
Before marking hems, let garment hang for 24-48 hours in case the fabric grows. 

There are a few different ways to hem this light fabric.  My favorite way is to sew a rolled hem with my serger.  I strongly suggest using textured nylon (or wooly nylon) in the upper looper because as you can see here it makes a much nicer hem. 



A narrow hem  can be achieved by hand sewing, using a narrow hem foot with a regular sewing machine, or using Ban-rol. 

Ban-rol can be used to achieve a flawless narrow hem with a regular machine.  Recently I found a tutorial by Oliver + S that explains this technique.  In the most simple of terms, sew a frayed edge of the ban-rol to the bottom of the fabric, flip it away from fabric, sew, flip to wrong side and sew again, remove the ban-rol by pulling out the frayed edge and what is left is a beautiful narrow hem.
 
Conclusion:
When finished with your project, a quick warm hand wash with a little detergent will remove the gelatin and return the fabric to original. Chiffon garments should always be hand washed and laid flat to dry.



Chiffon can be used to make a wide variety of garments such as lingerie, infinity scarves, blouses, and breezy jackets.  Do not be discouraged by this lovely fabric, follow these tips and sewing with chiffon can be relatively pain free!

For my project I used View D from McCall's 7200.  I made the size XS and modified it to fit my 9 year old.  After a quick tissue fit, I found I had to remove 1.5" from the height between shoulder and waist (over the bust area).  I also shortened it to the cutting line for views A,B,C. Perfect fit. It took 1 yard of Chiffon.

 I also combined the back panel with the side panels before cutting so the back is 2 pieces (yoke and bottom) instead of 4 pieces (yoke, 2 side panels, and center back panel).  I tried my best to match up lines where seams met.  Can you see the top yoke below? :)

Here is the inside view.  French seams make the insides look just as nice as the outsides.

Thanks for taking the time to read through my tutorial.  I hope you find some helpful tips for your next project.  This is my entry into Week 3 of FabricMart's Fabricista Fashion Challenge.  Head over to the FabricMart blog and see everyone's entries (during the day sometime on Wednesday, September 30th).  Don't forget to vote for your favorite!

Maxi Skirt with Ruffle ~ tutorial

When summer is in full swing I love wearing long breezy skirts.  Enter Maxi with Ruffle.
This idea came to me last night.  It isn't a complicate design and it goes together quickly.

1. First I took my waist x 1.5 (I like my skirts lower on my waist so I used my "pants" waist measurement of 36; therefore ending up with 54 total *I chose not to add seam allowance because my fabric was a nice 54" wide.  
2. Then I measured from my "pants waist to the floor, or where I wanted the whole skirt to end up. For me this happened to be 36" also!  
3. Next, the bottom ruffle is 12 inches + 1/2 inch for the top hem to lay on top of the other panel; so 12.5 inches.  Take the bottom ruffle of 12 inches and subtract it from your total length (for me of 36" = 24 and add 2 inches *1.5 for top elastic hem and 0.5 for bottom hem to lay under bottom panel; for me = 26")
4. Ok now I have all my measurements ready.  For the top panel I need two rectangles 27" wide x 26" long, after cutting them I serged all 4 edges of both.  
5. For the bottom panel I need two rectangles 37" wide x 12.5" long, after cutting them I placed right sides together and sewed, then serged each end.  Then I sewed rolled hems on the top and bottom of the now round bottom ruffle. 
6. Place right sides together for top panels and sew each side.  Place gathering stitches in bottom panel on the topmost part.  Attach to skirt by laying top 1/2" of bottom panel with rolled hem over the top of the bottom serged "top panel".  Make sure when sewing that the 1/2" stays overlapped and you are sewing through the middle.  Remove gathering stitches.
7. Add elastic to the top.  

I used 1.5 yards of 54" wide Rayon Challis.  $6.35 total.  "Garden Rayon Challis Tropical Floral Coral/Blue"

~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~

Easy and Fast Perfect Hems!

Hemming: not hard, but definitely time consuming. It's during the final stretch of a wonderful piece that you are met with this beast.  I don't enjoy hemming because I just want to get to the finished garment already! :-)

Well I'm throwing out my hem measuring tool and going an easier and faster route.  (This is for a double fold hem - but also would work for single fold with serged edge)

Want to know my secret?

Step 1: Mark of 1/2 inch seam on your sewing machine (or use what I love: a nifty -cheap- Magnetic Seam Guide ). Then sew with a stitch length of 4 all around the bottom of your garment.

Step 2: Have your iron hot and press that up so just the bottom of that thread line is folded.

This is super easy to do all the way around the garment because of the thread line - it flips up so nice and fast - plus there is no stopping to measure.

Step 3: Press up again with the hot iron and pin.

Step 4: stitch all around hem 1/2 inch, just catching in the double fold on the backside.

Enjoy nice, even, fast, and easy hems every time!

~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~

New Living Room Pillows! ~ Link to Tutorial

Something about new pillows makes a room feel fresh.  Back in September of 2012 I made these awesomely easy zippered throw pillows and provided you with a tutorial.

The pillows were cute but a little on the small side.  P.S. I still have all four, they will just be moved to the "banana couch" for now.  ("banana couch" is an amazing 70's tan couch that I think they called kidney shaped? I don't know for sure but I've always loved it so when we bought my grandma's house 3 years ago I made sure the couch came with it!)

This time around I used 18x18 inch pillow forms - bought on sale at Hancock's.  I followed the same steps as the tutorial and these really are so super easy to make.

I love the outcome and the pillows are huge! I can't wait for everyone to get home and find them.

The fabric I purchased on Feb. 8th this year - yikes it took me this long to sew them up!
The green is a wonderful print from Valori Wells - Wrenly Bloom Citrus 1.5 yards (had leftovers)
The brown is a great print from Ty Pennington Home Decor Impressions - Lace Espresso 1.5 yards (had leftovers)

Breakdown:
18x18inch pillow forms (4): $31.00
1.5 yards Wrenly Bloom Citrus: $11.45
1.5 yards Lace Espresso: $9.55
Total for all four pillows: $52 or $13 each

The best things about these are the fact that: I can remove the cover to wash them, and now that I have the forms I can also remove the covers and change them up to new fabrics with ease.

~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~

Perfect Fit: Double Layer Elastic Skirt

This easy to make skirt is a wonderful addition to any wardrobe.  It is fast to make and fits exactly with your measurements.  Add some charm to your attire!

Drafting the pattern:
1. Make dot #1 on the paper on the very left side near the top (but make sure you leave at least 2 inches of space above)
2. Make dot #2 directly above dot 1 but an inch above
3. Make dot #3 directly below dot #1 but in the length you want +1 inch for seam allowances (skirt #1 is for the shorter skirt  on the top layer)
4. Dot #4 is your hip measurements + 2 inches (1 inch for seam allowance and 1 inch for ease); Make dot #4 across from dot #2 with this measurement.
5. Draw a curved line from dot #1 to dot #4
6. Draw a long slanted line from dot #4 to the measurement from Step 3.
7. Taking your ruler along the top, mark measurements from Step 3 all along the bottom and then connect them.

This is for skirt #1 - the shorter top skirt. To make a double layer skirt you simply add another skirt with the same dimensions only longer. To add this length I added the extra amount to my drafting paper and taped it to the bottom of the first skirt since all of the top measurements are the same.  (See pic 4 below)

Cut two on the fold of your fabric, straight side of skirt is on the fold.  I used 1.5 yards for the top skirt and 2 yards for the bottom skirt.

The drafted skirt pattern 

Cut 2 on fold of first skirt

 added length for second longer skirt

To Sew: 

For the skirts you will sew the side seams of both with a 1/2 inch seam allowance.  To attach them you sew as below.

 Place long skirt on top of short skirt.  Long skirt is right side facing you, wrong side touching right side of short skirt.  Short skirt is facing you as well, right side touching wrong side of long skirt. 

Sew 1/2 inch seam allowance around skirt waist, joining long skirt to short skirt. 

Pull long skirt straight up (iron with seams going up to long skirt as well) Then push long skirt down into short skirt and iron again. 

To make casing: top stitch close to top edge of skirt waist where long skirt is inside short skirt which you just completed above.  Then sew another stitch 1 inch below top stitch all around waist but leaving 2 inch opening for elastic to feed through.  The long skirt and short skirt make the casing for your elastic. 

Feed elastic through, then stitch opening closed.  

Hem both skirts.  I folded 1/4 inch up and 1/4 inch again for my hem

That's it!  You are done!  How cute is this skirt?

Minimal "pooch" from material in front

Like the fabric?
 Feather N Stitch Love Birds Plum (I simply adore this fabric!)

 Woodland Tails Dots Blue


~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~

A-Line Skirt with Fitted Waist ~ How To Get The Perfect Fit!

I've had a fascination with skirts ever since I was little. I don't know why or what it is about them but I just love skirts!  Most of them are super easy to make too, so that is a bonus!

I put a bit of time into getting this skirt to be just perfect.  I drew up the pattern to my exact measurements, pre-washed my fabrics, made a muslin and adjusted it, added darts and re-made a muslin and then finally cut into my fabric and sewed it up!  Guess what?  I'm over the moon with the results!  Let me show you how you can make your own A-Line skirt with a fitted waist to your exact measurements.

Alright here are the measurements you need to take:
Take your waist (or where you want your skirt to sit on your body) and then add 2 inches for seam allowance (SA) and 1 inch for ease.  My waist was 36 + 2 SA and 1 ease = 39.  Then you divide by 4.  I came to 9.75 inches.
Now measure your hip and add 2 for SA and 2 for ease; and then divide that number by 4.  I had 42 +2 +2 = 46/4= 11.5 inches.
Now figure out how far you waist is to your hip measurement and add 1 inch for SA. I had 6 + 1 = 7 inches.
Finally figure your length you want from waist to bottom of skirt and add 1 inch for SA and 1 for hem.  I had 24 + 1 + 1 for a total of 26 inches.

OK let's put the above numbers to a pattern.
Here is my lovely drawing.... :)

Trust me, this isn't going to be hard.  For dot number 1 just mark it on the paper near the top left side but leave enough room on top for another 2 inches.  After marking dot 1, mark dot 2 exactly 1 inch above dot 1.   Take a ruler across from dot 2 and mark dot 3 with your first measurement (the waist one, mine was 9.75 inches).  Draw a dotted line between dot 2 and 3.  Now you will make the curve from dot 1 to dot 3, not quite as drastic as my drawing but gradually curve up from dot 1 to dot 3 as shown in my blue line.
Dot 4 is your 3rd measurement from waist to hip.  Measure from dot 2 down to mark dot 4 with your measurement (mine was 7 inches).  Take a ruler and measure over from dot 4 to mark dot 5 with your 2nd measurement (the hip one, mine was 11.5 inches).  From dot 2 measure down to mark dot 6 (this is your length, mine was 26 inches. Finally, measure over with the curve from dot 1 to dot 3 with the ruler to mark a few spots of the length (this will help draw the bottom skirt curve).  Make the line from dot 3, through dot 5 to connect with the length curve on the bottom.

Your pattern is complete!  Be sure to cut the muslin first.  Cut two identical pieces for front and back with this pattern (you will insert a side zipper).  Also, I used a facing for mine (no lining) because I wear a slip. To cut a facing use the top 3 inches of the pattern and cut 2 pieces).

To sew:
1. Baste from waist down 7 inches on left side of skirt, then sew the rest of the side normally with 1/2 inch seam allowance. Insert zipper where basting is. (there are many great tutorials of inserting a zipper on the web)
2. Sew other side of skirt with right sides together.
3. Sew on facing.
4. Add pockets if you choose.  Put whatever type you would like onto the skirt.
5. Finish the hem.

Wa-La!  done!

 I love these pockets!

 The fabric is perfect for me!

Here is the facing.

Back View

Now that I have the pattern drawn up to my exact size I can make a variety of these skirts with endless options!  I'm super excited.  I think I'll be wearing this skirt all spring and summer. 

Fabric Info: 

                                                                
The Simple Life Children's Chores in Aqua                            Sugar Blossom Ditsy Floral Red

100% Cotton ~ Riley Blake                                         (I used Black, White & Currant but it's unavailable)

Next I'll be using my pattern to make an elastic waist A-Line skirt in a funky way!  My excitement can't be contained here!!!

I hope you are able to use my instructions to make your own perfect A-Line skirt!  Let me know if you have any questions.  

~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~