Summer Tanks! Ellie & Mac and Made for Mermaids

Pattern: Ellie & Mac – Curved Hem Tank (FREE!!!)

Made Previously: aqua floral in July 22 and teal deer in Oct 22

 

Measurements at this time:

• high bust 39 inches
• bust 42 inches
• waist 37 inches
• hip 48.5 inches

Size Sewn: L bust, XL waist, XXL hip  

Adjustments:

• I made 1/2-inch forward shoulder adjustment
• Lowered pocket by an inch
• Widened neck & strap bindings to 1.5” and sewed ½” seam allowance. They were too skinny on original pattern
• Pet Peeve: the Curved hem doesn’t have notches outward so it doesn’t meet the edges at the hem – remember to sew up the sides after hemming (it works better and keeps a cute sharp curve).

 

Date started: sometime in July Date finished: July 12th, 2023  

Fabric: 1 yard cotton lycra birds with ½ yard cranberry cotton lycra for the binding and pocket (I have been slacking on my database of fabrics so I don’t remember where, when, or how much I got these for. I need to do better).

 

Thoughts: I love the pattern, this is tank #3 I have made with it. I like how it covers my thyroid belly; it doesn't make me look huge, it's comfortable to wear. I wanted to try this one in a cotton lycra because my other ones have been DBP. you can tell that it's a little bit stiffer in the drape because of the cotton lycra but I do still like it and it's comfortable to wear. I wish I had made the hem bigger because the hem listed is a half inch and it likes to flip up and every time I wash it I have to iron it back down. I am definitely a very low maintenance person. I don’t want fuss. So this drives me crazy. I need to make that hem an inch or 3/4 inch. Other than that, I absolutely love the tank. It’s a bit wild with all the birds but it's nice to have something to where that's cotton and not polyester. This pattern is definitely one of my favorites and I’ll probably make many more, lol. 

Pattern: Made for Mermaids: Vivienne  

Measurements at the time: bust 39 waist 32 hip 46.S

   

Size sewn: bust indigo, waist green, hip yellow

I sewed the top length view

 

Date started: sometime in July of 2019 Date finished: I picked it back up and finished it February 10^th, 2024

   

Fabric: I used a burgundy wine double brushed Poly for the sides and a teal and pink floral double brush Poly for the main (I have been slacking on my database of fabrics so I don’t remember where, when, or how much I got these for. I need to do better).

Of course a photobomb by Mr. Bennie. “whatcha doin Mom, can I help?”

 

Thoughts: when I started sewing this back in 2019 at first I thought it would be cute but then I got half of it sewn up and I thought it looked terrible and made my hips look really big. I felt frumpy and so I didn't want to finish it ss off to the UFO pile it went and got buried. BUT then since 2019 my shape has changed and I grew this thyroid belly and I thought, hey, that shirt might work now because of the way the gathers are in the front. So I finished sewing it and I don't know. I'm still on the fence about it. I think it's OK but from the side I still feel large like a whale. I guess I have a lot of work to do still on my body image and acceptance, but anyway back to the pattern. This one also asks for 1/2 inch hem. I don't know what it is about 1/2 inch hem with designers. I don't like them, they flip up all the time. I need to make it a 1” hem or at least a ¾”. The shirt is growing on me, I like the panels on the sides, it makes for a different look. It's cute, but I don't know. I'm not 100% on it yet. Maybe in dress form or tunic I might like it better. But it's finished now and hanging in my closet, so I guess that's a win because it was just sitting in the UFO pile since 2019.  After staring at the pictures and pattern drawing I realize the issue now.  The pattern gathers and waist are at my fullest part.  I need an empire waist to minimize my belly.  So I need to move the waistline up on this to make it cute but not make me feel huge.

 

I even took the time to switch out my coverstitching to match the panels.

 

Here are the original pictures from 2019, with a much different body shape and I very much didn’t like the top then.

 

Life/Health/Home:

On the Homefront:  I am SLOWLY getting over my shingles. Oh!  I don’t think I even mentioned it in my blog!!  The DAY AFTER my 8 week checkup from the hysterectomy (when I was finally feeling more human) I came down with Shingles!!!! What THE HELL!!! I am only 45! Isn’t Shingles for old people? like 90 year olds! It has been a horrific battle, especially since I had just had the hysterectomy recovery for 8 weeks. These Shingles took me DOWN! I was extremely nauseous and vomiting and I could eat nothing.  I was with fever and omg the itching  and burning and shooting pain. It has been 6 long weeks of agony here. The shingles are on my scalp, forehead, and into my left eye (my good eye of course). The meds are disgusting and ginormous and I am miserable and cranky. I haven’t eaten and I’ve lost 17lbs. I am starting to turn the corner finally I think, just this last week here. But man, what a trip.  I can’t believe how many times I’ve been kicked down this last decade of my life.  I just want to be left alone to sew and embroider and enjoy my life.  I thought about sewing this last week but my weight changed again and I don’t want to sew until I know where it will settle at.  I did start some embroidery and finished this Spring Things project from Sweet Pea Embroidery.

The doctor asked me if I was under a lot of stress. OMG STRESS? NO.  Just like everything is blowing up right now around here.

My Grandpa is on Hospice. My MIL and FIL are not well.  My grandma is not well.  Tayden broke his ankle at work and workman's comp is jerking him around and he can’t pay rent or get food and his girlfriend is pregnant so I’m about to be a grandma! And I’m too young for that!!! That happens to old people! My husband had four interviews for a promotion that he wanted so so bad.  It would have us move and so I had the stress of ohh my gosh are we moving again. this time it would be two hours from here. at the last minute he was one of the last two candidates and they adjusted directors and so the new director chose his friend instead of Troy, which I think is complete crap. so all of that stress. and now Troy is absolutely devastated but ohh they have another position coming open in the next six months or so all the way across the state and up north. I live in Wisconsin. I am five to six hours from Canada. up north means up north. lots of pine trees, bears, moose, elk, Wolverines, wolves,  lots of animals, lots of trees, lots of insanity, on the border of Canada. I don't want to move up north. I am just fine here in the driftless region where we have beautiful Bluffs and changing fall colors and the Mississippi. I don't want to live by Michigan, I'm sorry for any Michigan people here reading, but I just don't want to go over that way. I go to Rochester for my brain tumor stuff frequently, I don't want to have to travel all across the state just to go to my appointments. so there's that stress and then Mr. T's truck broke down and it's the radiator, and the power steering, and the wheel bearings. lots of money for a 20 year old vehicle. so we weren't sure if we were going to get him a new vehicle, but our vehicle lease ends in six months, so we've been looking for vehicles, and if we got him the loan would that affect our lease vehicle. so that's stress. plus the political stress, the market stress, everybody's broke, everybody's stressed, and my baby Kiela starts college in a week now and she's stressed about it which makes me stressed. ohh yeah and our dog had to go in, Cheeto, to get a sedated X-ray and they over sedated him and that was a whole mess of stress. and both dogs have been having gut issues. so things are just absolutely at the Max stress level right now, so when the doctor tells me not to be stressed I just laughed at him. I just laughed. I said all around me is stress, not even beginning with my health stress, or the fact that I can't eat food for the last 12 years and no doctor gives a damn. so yes I have a ton of stress. and he tells me well that's probably why the shingles reared their head and now you have to be careful and I'm like dude this stress ain’t going away. oh thank you for letting me vent that out and now you know.

Happy Sewing Kristin

Dress Yes and Dress No

Pattern: Ellie & Mac – I love the 90s Dress Measurements at the time: high bust 38 1/2 bust 42 waist 37 hip 48 ½ Size sewn: shoulders L, XL bust, XXL waist and hips Alterations: I added one inch to the skirt length for my height because this is drafted for a 5 foot five woman and I'm 5’7” .   I did my normal half inch forward shoulder adjustment  I added another half inch so I could have a one inch hem. I don't like 1/2 an inch hem (as the pattern calls for) because it usually flips up, I like a beefy 1 inch hem. So in total I added 1.5” to length of skirt portion.  I added 1/2 inch to each side of the sleeves at the hem and then blended to the armpit - they were way too small when I flat measured them so the total added to each sleeve hem was an inch in width.  That way I could get 14 1/4 inches of room after sewing and seam allowance. I have big biceps.  I did keep the 1/2 inch hem on the sleeves - though I would prefer to have at least 3/4 inch hem there. Date sewn:  May 21, 2023 Fabric:  Double Brushed Navy & Pink Floral Poly Spandex purchased in 2017 from Knitpop for $8.50/yard.  I used 2 yards so $17 total. Instructions: I found that there was no pocket line on the back only on the front pieces but you start sewing them on to the back piece so make sure to transfer the pocket lines to the back pieces.

The back skirt piece is shorter than the front by two and 3/4 inch and wider by two inches this really confused me until I wore the dress and realized it really helped even things out over my rear end.

I didn't cut the front or back bodices on the fold. I traced it to be one open piece and not on the fold and then just cut 2 - laid out flat like a normal proper pattern piece.  You all know my pet peeve is cut 2 on fold - I can't stand that.

I also cut the neck band 1 1/2 inch by 20 1/2 inch – I think it was a 1” width, I like a beefier neckband.

Thoughts: Ok, I know it sounds like I did a lot of altering and things for this dress, but I really love this dress.  A first I wasn't sure if I would like it, but when I wear it I feel like a teenager all over again.  It has the best pockets too!  I also thought that at first when I saw it, that I would look like I was wearing a tent.  But it's really cute and really fun and it's twirly and flowy and I'm probably going to make more. I really love it, it's a great dress. I got the pattern on their weekly $2 sale patterns. It was cheap and I figured why not and now I love it.  So that's the second pattern that I've gotten and made from Ellie and Mac that I absolutely love.  The first pattern was the curved hem tank and you know I've made a ton of those and that's a free pattern. Now I look every Tuesday at which patterns they have on sale for $2 and I'm scooping them up because I really love how the Ellie & Mac patterns are laid out and I love how they look on me.  If you haven't given them a shot yet you might want to try the free curved hem tank to get an idea of how they work but they're great in my opinion. Pattern: Snapdragon Studios – Summer Jazz Dress Measurements at the time: bust 42 high bust 39 waist 37 to 39 hip 49 Size sewn: L bust, XL waist and hips Alterations: Alterations I did French seams on the center front seam and on the shoulders.  There is no elastic length for inside the casing - no idea what length to use, I winged it. Date started: date started June 8, 2023     Date finished: date finished June 10th 2023 Fabric:  In March of 2018 I got this in the Fabricmart Precut sale. So for $12 I got the pattern and 5 Yards of Muted Navy/Bright Blue/Pink 100% Polyester Abstract Print Peachskin Blouse Weight Woven 60W fabric. I still have 2 yards left. so this dress took 3 yards.  so this dress was only about $7 of fabric plus I got the pattern with it. Instructions: the instructions are really weird, they're super wordy and convoluted.  The neck binding is a very weird way to do this as well and so not all of the neck binding gets caught because of how they say to sew it. Also, with this weird neck binding, when I wear the dress it flips to the front and you can see the bad neck binding. I might have to hand stitch this somehow to the inside so it doesn't flip forward, but I don't know how without showing stitches on the front. Not a fan of the neck binding. Thoughts: Why is there a center front seam? Unnecessary center front seams are gross to me. There's no reason to have a center front seam on this. The fabric was completely horrible to work with.  It is some weird slippery rayon crap and it's just horrible, I don't like it. I bet it would snag in a heartbeat because it was unraveling as I was trying to work with it. I should have starched it to make it stiff and easier to work with like I blogged about ages ago with how to work with slippery fabric. (I should have taken my own advice!)

On the front of the dress where you tack down the elastic, under the bust, is a sloppy way to do it and it shows on the front and it's just right there in front. Everybody can see where you've tacked it down.

Overall I did not enjoy making this dress. I wrote on my notes “Give up, terrible.”  I didn't enjoy the fabric. I didn't’ enjoy the instructions.  However, when I wear it - I think it looks cute, so I don't know. I also see that you can make it in a jersey as well, even though I used a woven. So it might be cute in a jersey but I still don't like how you do the front elastic tack down at the center front waist. I'm going to have to think about how to make that look better.  This dress is not my favorite.  But I will let it hang in the closet for awhile and see if it grows on me.

Happy Sewing! Kristin

Tons of Tank–Ellie & Mac, Petite Stitchery, and Jalie

Pattern: Ellie & Mac – Curved Hem Tank (FREE!!!) Measurements at this time:

• high bust 39 inches
• bust 42 inches
• waist 37 inches
• hip 48.5 inches

Size Sewn: L bust, XL waist, XXL hip Started and finished Sewing: 07/15 & 07/16/2022 Adjustments:

• I made 1/2-inch forward shoulder adjustment
• Lowered pocket by an inch
• Widened neck & strap bindings to 1.5” and sewed ½” seam allowance. They were too skinny on original pattern
•  Pet Peeve: the Curved hem doesn’t have notches outward so it doesn’t meet the edges at the hem (picture below).

Fabric: a yard of floral aqua double brushed poly I had. No Idea when and where I got it. Some scrap pack. Thoughts: OMG. I freaking LOVE this tank!! I don’t know why I held off so long on making it. The dbp drapes just right and it hangs nicely and doesn’t show my thyroid belly. I feel comfortable and pretty in it. I wore it almost every day I could from July to September when it got too cold.  The tiny pocket makes me smile.

I was hesitant about the seam down the center back but holy cow! I am sold! It took away my swayback issue immediately and I love how it curves over my but with no issues or bumps.

The pattern is FREE and I waited this long to make it. I was missing out! Now I am thinking, how can I add sleeves to this pattern to make it an amazing t-shirt.

Pattern: Ellie & Mac – Curved Hem Tank (FREE!!!) Yes, I made it AGAIN because I loved the first one so much. Made previously: in the aqua floral shown above this one. Measurements at this time:

• high bust 39 inches
• bust 42 inches
• waist 37 inches
• hip 48.5 inches

Size Sewn: same. L bust, XL waist, XXL hip Started and finished Sewing: 10/03/22 Adjustments:

• I made 1/2-inch forward shoulder adjustment
• Lowered pocket by an inch
• Widened neck & strap bindings to 1.75” and sewed ½” seam allowance. They were too skinny on original pattern

Fabric: scraps from my cotton deer jersey that I used to make this Lekala 4321 top.   Gray Scuba Blue Triangle Stag on White Cotton Jersey Blend Knit Fabric. 50% Cotton/50% Poly.

I used 1 yard. I purchased it 07/08/15 for $6.60/yard.

Thoughts: I wore the crap out of my first E&M tank and was just itching to make another. It drapes a little different in the cotton jersey as opposed to my first double brushed poly. But I love it nonetheless. Now I need to hack the pattern to add sleeves and make a ton of t shirts!! Pattern: Petite Stitchery – Swing Tank (also called Swanky Tank) and is also FREE Measurements at this time:

• high bust 39 inches
• bust 42 inches
• waist 39 inches
• hip 49.5 inches

Size Sewn: bust – XXL, Waist – 1X, Hips –1X Started and finished Sewing: 11/15/22 Adjustments:

• Used the modest shoulder option
• XL @ shoulder and neck to XXL bust to 1X waist and hip
• ¼” Forward Shoulder adjustment
• The neckline was too “choke-y” so I lowered it 1” down in front to 0” at the shoulders
• I made the neckband 1”x19.75” not the 1”x15.25” called for. I couldn’t get the smaller neckband over my head even!!!

Fabric: 1 yard, 1 inch of a double brushed poly daisy print that I got somewhere somehow, most likely a a scrap pack Thoughts: I don’t like the bands sewn, then rolled inside on wrong side of fabric, then topstitched. I find this difficult, slower, and then trimming sucks. I prefer just to zip the bands on, flip them to the outside and topstitch.

*Pet Peeves* The neckband wasn’t cut on a fold, no waist markings. The fabric cutting guide is super funny. No way would anyone cut their fabric like that. It really wastes fabric. I cut the “normal way” of flipping both selvages to meet in the middle and cutting tank front on one side and tank back on other side, then bands below. Because of the wonky cutting suggestion the pattern asks for 1 7/8 yard of fabric. ALMOST 2 yards for a tank?? No way. I cut it my way described and got a size 1X out of 1 yard, 1inch.

The tank is okish. I’m not a fan really. The neck is way too high for me even though I lowered it. There is way too much side boob showing. The armscyes are really low. A 1X size in this pattern is the same as a size L in love notions patterns. I realize I’m not petite, but the pattern was free and I’ve seen other non-petite people make it on Facebook. I thought I would give it a go. And I don’t care for it so I won’t be making it again.

Pattern: Jalie 3245 tank - from the time vault LOL. I started this MAY 14^th, 2017 and then it became a UFO because I didn’t like the fit. Made previously: Back in 2015 I made 2 muslins and a purple cotton lycra tank. I just couldn’t seem to get this pattern to fit me right. I also made 3 of these tanks for Miss K and of course they fit her perfectly. Measurements NOW:

• high bust 39 inches
• bust 42 inches
• waist 37 inches
• hip 48.5 inches

My measurements BACK WHEN I CUT IT OUT:

• 37.5 bust
• 31 waist
• 45 hip

Size Sewn BACK THEN: V bust, W waist, X hip (so way smaller than my current size, therefore it will be tight in my pictures). Started and finished Sewing: Started MAY 2017, finished AUGUST 2022.

I sewed up the shoulders and sides back in May 2017. Then didn’t like the fit and left it in the UFO pile all these years and 2 house moves. I pulled it out August 2022 and decided to finish it. I had to hem the bottom and add bands to the arms and neck. Well I lost the arm bands so I was like, whatever, at this point I’m finishing it. I switched the armbands to black dbp. I think it works since there are black heathering in the design of the green knit.

Adjustments: none that I see on the pattern Fabric: green heathered knit, little stretch. I don’t know where or when I purchased it. Thoughts: I have been desperately trying to make this pattern work for me for YEARS because I love the look of it. I want that Raglan tank Dress. It baffles me because the newer, similar pattern 3667 Marie Caude fits me like a glove. It fits perfectly. So why can’t I get 3245 to fit!!! Ugh. I will be laying the patterns over each other to see where the issue is at some point. (marie claudes made: black semi sheer one from Apr 2018 a ton. The one I made in Dec 2017 in I loved the fit but the fabric was just not right for me. Oh! I also made a hooded one for Miss K in Dec 2017 too. And my navy rayon spandex one.

Anyway, back to this old UFO that is now finally finished but too small for me now.  in the beginning in 2017 I hated those damn under bust lines. I didn’t understand how to get rid of them.  I think now I know more about adjustments and my body that I can fix that.  I think the bust point needs raised, or less fabric underbust and more fabric for my butt.  In 2022 pictures there are no bust drag lines because my bust fills it out. in 2020 there are bust drags and in 2017 there are big bust drag lines.  Maybe I needed a small bust adjustment.  Either way, I’m just glad it’s finished and I will wait until I can wear it again if I lose some weight.

Happy Sewing! Kristin