Jalie 2921 Scarf-Collar Top

I realized today that at least half my closet is made of Jalie; they sure churn out some amazing patterns.  I love the fact that the sizing is from baby through plus size adult.  One pattern can take me a long way with that sizing.  Unfortunately the Canadian dollar is not so strong right now; fortunately that means I can buy a lot of their patterns for not many USD right now



Recently I ordered Jalie 2921 Scarf-Collar Top.  This top has many positive reviews on PatternReview and I liked the design of it. I cut a size “V” for the front and a size “V” for the back except the hip I graded out to a “Y”.  These sizes are based on my actual measurements.  I adjusted for a square shoulder. 



The very best part about this top is that it takes 1 yard of fabric.  ONE yard!!  Plus, I was able to sew it in 1 hour!



The blue one I sewed first in an ITY.  It is my wearable muslin.  I haven’t hemmed it yet, but I like how it looks so well that I will hem it and wear it.  The sleeves turned out a bit tight for my liking.





The second one I sewed out of a teal rayon jersey. It is so soft.  I added 1/2” in width to the sleeves and 1/4” to the sides for a slightly less tight fit. 



I love this one too, but I think I like how the blue ITY fits better.  There is much better recovery in an ITY than a rayon jersey.  The rayon jersey tells me I need to do a swayback adjustment next time. 



The only thing I don’t like about these tops is the front center seam.  I really don’t like that but the scarf covers it up.  The way the shirt is constructed, the center seam is vital. 



The instructions were excellent; I enjoy having both worded steps as well as picture steps. 



All in all I love this top and can’t wait to make more.  I will be wearing these two until they fall apart!

Happy  Sewing!

~Kristin~

A fail, a stall, and a sneak peak

 Lets start with the fail.

Burda 11/2006 #116

I really wanted this top to work out.  I love the line drawing.  The original french terry I wanted to use was way to thin, and I only had 1 yard not 2.  So I went to Hancock's to find new fabric and settled on one of their new sweater knits with a fleece backing.  The pattern calls for sweatshirt material.



Unfortunately it sounds nicer than it really is.  The sweater knit part on top tries to stretch but pulls in other places when it does, and the fleece part fights stretching.  This makes for an uncomfortable top!  The arms are too tight. It feels too tight in the stomach.  Plus, I couldn’t figure out the neck directions for anything! 



If anyone knows how to sew this neck together please let me know.  I’d love to try this top again.  Here is where I’m confused: Turn the allowance out on the slanting front, and collar edges and stitch in place.  What? Am I just flipping the allowance to the outside and sewing so that the raw edge is visible?  In my top here I just folded the raw side to show without sewing anything on the edges.  Or maybe since you are flipping the raw side up you turn the allowances to the right side so that they are really underneath.  I’m just lost; though I think I may have figured it out just now as I typed this out.  If anyone can help clarify…Thanks Burda!




And here is a what I’m stalled on.  I am not sure if I like the shirt enough to finish it.  I feel like the fit is a bit off, almost as if the bust and back darts are too low.  I had high hopes for it in the beginning.  The fabric is a loose weave so it has been a pain to sew the collar area because it grows and shifts.  I usually never have UFO’s but this one might end up that way. This is also a Burda pattern.




Finally, here is a sneak peak of something I’ve been working on for Miss K. 



I finally have all my supplies ready for Jean making so I plan on doing that next up.  

What have you been sewing?

~Kristin~

Ottobre Tunic and Burda Nightgown

Ottobre 05/2013 #1B Autumn Mood Tunic

I’ve made this pattern a few times before as a tee:
Teal Color Block                  Light rayon                   Color Blocked                color blocked zig-zag

And once before as a tunic: Geometric Sweater Knit Tunic



Size: I have been doing a lot of flat pattern measuring lately.  It does not guarantee fit, but does get really close. I took my measurements as front bust, back bust; front waist, back waist, and so on.  Then I measure on each pattern piece.  I went with a size 42 for the whole pattern due to this, and then did my alterations from there.  My current measurements put me in a 42 for shoulders/44 bust, 42 waist/46 hip


Alterations:

• added 1.5” to sleeve width and 5.25” to sleeve length to get a full sleeve instead of 3/4 sleeve
• 1/2” square shoulder
• made neckline less open by adding 1.5” to inside part of shoulder pieces (basically redrafted the neck curve)
• took off 1” from back bust
• added 5” to back hip
• At this point I sewed the tunic except hems and found I still had to bring in the waist 6” total

Instructions: Good.  They are short and too the point, but describe enough that you can sew with no issues.

Fabric: 1.5 yards of Classic Blue, Cotton/Poly/Spandex Knit (55% Cotton, 35% Poly, 10% Spandex). I purchased this for $6 total from FabricMart in December 2015.  This turned out to be a lovely weight knit.  Nice and medium weight, no trace of being sheer.  I hope it washes and wears well.



Thoughts:  I like this tunic quite a bit.  I wore it out today.  I do wish I would not have added the pockets.  I feel they are in a weird high spot on me.  In the future I would probably add side seam pockets instead of these patch pockets.  My hands keep trying to go into the side seam, searching for a pocket! I love the mod vibe the tunic gives though.

Burdastyle 12/2008 #114 ~ Nightgown

Size:    size 42, but I graded out the back hip to a size 46 to accommodate my larger rear. 

Alterations:

• After sewing this up I had to take off a total of 8 inches from bust to waist. 
• The neckline was a bit low before adding binding so I did not take off any seam allowance there, only sewing on the edge of the binding.
• The neckline piece was 5 inches too long. 
• My fabric was so loose and drapey that the pleats do not want to stay; however the pattern calls for loose and drapey fabric. 
• I did not feel like hemming the bottom of the nightgown so I just cut off the 1.5” hem allowance.  The length is perfect. 

Instructions:  These were actually easy to follow.  I had no issues.  They were short and to the point, but this is usual for Burda. 



Fabric: 1.5 yards of Black and white rayon striped knit from Hancocks.  Purchased April 30th, 2015 for $5.80 total.  This fabric was very lightweight and a little slipperier than most rayon jerseys I have sewn with. It is soft though so perfect for sleepwear.

Here is a close up of the pleats at the front neckline

Thoughts:  This pattern is large, you may want to size down.  It works for a nightgown but I probably will not make it again.  I was considering the top version of this pattern but not anymore!  I just do not like how the pleats act in this kind of fabric.