1st Burda! 05/2013 #114 Underdress

I sewed my first Burda! It wasn't too bad at all and now I have the sizing worked out for future Burdas to come ~ so excited.

I traced and sewed #114 "Underdress" - basically a nightie.  I chose an easy and fast pattern to test out sizing, tracing layouts, and instructions.

I chose to sew with Charmeuse Satin (do I like punishment or what!) even though the pattern states its best to have some stretch in the fabric. I traced out my pattern pieces as wholes, I did not leave them to be cut on the folds.  I figured my fabric would give me enough problems.

inside view

So this pattern states to use RED pattern line on sheet d; I on the other hand kept reading it as "read pattern line on sheet d...... so I kept going "What the hell, I can't find out what pieces to use.  How do I know what pieces to use" until about 5 minutes later when it occurred to me that it said "red" not "read". . . .

I measured in between a size 38 and a 40 for bust (with no bra - because it's a nightie).  My waist is a little shy of size 40 and my hips a tad above a size 44.  I traced a size 38 for the top and then on the skirt piece I traced a 38 - to match the top and graded out to a 42.  Fits perfect.  What are the odds?

The pattern calls for 1 7/8 - 2 yards but I only had/used 1.5 yards.  I knew going in that my fabric would be my worst problem.  The shifting and slipping is enough to drive anyone batty.  I sort of cheated and sprayed a ton of starch on my fabric and let it dry a few times so it was stiff and easier to work with.  This helped me cut it out.  I used no pins - green bean cans worked wonders and I had tissue paper underneath, then fabric, then the pattern tissue paper on top - like a sandwich.  This helped too.

I didn't mark my fabric or pin it at all. I didn't want to take the chance of ruining it.  For the darts I came up with my own clever technique.

I traced the pattern onto another piece of tissue paper.  

Then I laid the paper down and put the fabric on top - wrong side down. (ignore the fact that I have my fabric faced the wrong way - a seam ripper was involved).  I folded the fabric and paper as one - the paper had the dart lines on it.  I ironed it right on top of the paper and sewed it.   

 The paper gave me the perfect sewing line to follow 

 and once finished I simply pulled the tissue paper off.  

see! nice darts!

I sewed this with French Seams.  I lined it with a very soft and lightweight broadcloth because if I self-lined it the design would show through. I also attached both straps to front and backs when sewing the lining to the bodice - so both are encased and I didn't have to stitch the backs of them on by hand. I used fold over elastic, not folded over, for the straps.  I didn't want to mess with the satin.  Laziness is the mother of inventions!  The elastic works great and is comfortable but I should have made them a tad longer.  For some unintelligible reason I shortened them to 13.5 inches instead of the 15.75 the pattern states.

French Seams

The directions were great.  I had no problem following them.

The fabric is: Charmeuse Satin Dessert Ivory/Red/Pink I picked up way back in April 2012 for $4.45.

The husband approves so I think I did a good job.  It looks cute, fits great, and is comfortable.

I see many more Burda's in my future.

~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~

Blue Linen Pants ~ Jalie 3243

In August I made Miss K the cutest pink linen shorts with this pattern.  I loved the outcome but wanted to make a few changes when I went to sew pants for me.

(Be prepared for some spur of the moment, exhausted mom-needs-kids-to-be-back-in-school photos)

I won't repeat the information I listed on the shorts post but only the updated things I did to the linen pants.

First, I wanted to make the waistband separate.  I don't like how they went over the top of the pockets in the original.  To do this I took the facing pieces and measured them.  Facings and pants already have seam allowances added.  Facings were 2 inches wide so I took this off the top of each side of pants patterns at the waist.  I also had to take it off the top of the pockets and pocket facing.  I then knew I wanted to fold over the waistband and not fiddle with facings so I added an inch to each waistband facing to equal 3 inches (1 inch elastic casing and 1/2 inch seam allowance for each side when flipped down).  I didn't want to over-think things so I just went with this.  I should have made the facings less curved, or curved correctly because when I went to sew them together they didn't line up quite right.

The pants sewed up just fine.  My hips measure at 42 inches so this is right at a size X.  I went with the size X (or 41cm, 11US) straight through.

I thought the rise looked high but kept at it.  After the pants were made I tried them on and I think that they are just a tad too tight in the butt/hip area.  I think I should have went up to a size Y (or 12US).  I measured the inseam before sewing and they were at a 31.5.  I measured my favorite pants and they measured 32.5 so I added an inch to the inseam.  The pants are long, I could have left that inch off.

The rise is a bit high in front.  I tend to wear my pants very low and don't like things going across my stomach by my belly button.  In the future I would curve out another 1-2 inches in the front only.  The back appears high but when I sit down they are just right without showing backside.

I'm not super crazy about them.  They are comfortable but appear more like lounge wear or pajama pants.  Perhaps it's the color I chose.  Also, the pockets aren't big enough to get my hands in comfortably so I'd add the 2 inches back into the pockets, which would also lower them down. I would like to try again with a more "mature" colored fabric such as a black, gray, or tan.

Likes:
simple pattern
fast to sew
very comfortable

Dislikes:
tiny pockets
higher rise
a little tight

So to re-cap, things to change for next time:
re-curve the front waistline to be 1-2 inches lower so they are lowrise
re-draw the waistband so it lays/fits better
add 2 inches to pockets and pocket facings to make them bigger/longer
use a different colored fabric
possibly use wider elastic in pants - using 3/4 inch because that's what I have, may try 1.5 or 2 in.

I do still like the pattern.  I just need to make some of the changes.

Fabric: 1.75 yards of "solid linen blue medium" from Hancock's sale last week.  originally $17.99/yard but I got it for $3.20/yard.  Total cost= $5.60
the 1.75 is for non-directional fabric.  You would use a bit more like 2.25 if you had a print or nap.

~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~

Resolution Totals August 2013

In keeping up with my sewing resolutions for this year I plan on doing a tally-type thing on the first of each month regarding the prior month to keep me on track for the year!

August 2013

Items Completed: 10
Resolution: 3

Unfinished projects completed: 0
Resolution: 1-2

New items in the Etsy shop: 7
Resolution: 2

Avg Blog Posts Weekly: 3.5
Resolution: 1

Tutorials created: 0
Resolution: more

Overall:
August was an ok month.  I didn't do stellar but I didn't do terrible either.  

What I need to work on:  UFO's. and tutorials. 

Onward to fall sewing! (I love fall).

~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~