1st Burda! 05/2013 #114 Underdress

I sewed my first Burda! It wasn't too bad at all and now I have the sizing worked out for future Burdas to come ~ so excited.

I traced and sewed #114 "Underdress" - basically a nightie.  I chose an easy and fast pattern to test out sizing, tracing layouts, and instructions.

I chose to sew with Charmeuse Satin (do I like punishment or what!) even though the pattern states its best to have some stretch in the fabric. I traced out my pattern pieces as wholes, I did not leave them to be cut on the folds.  I figured my fabric would give me enough problems.

inside view

So this pattern states to use RED pattern line on sheet d; I on the other hand kept reading it as "read pattern line on sheet d...... so I kept going "What the hell, I can't find out what pieces to use.  How do I know what pieces to use" until about 5 minutes later when it occurred to me that it said "red" not "read". . . .

I measured in between a size 38 and a 40 for bust (with no bra - because it's a nightie).  My waist is a little shy of size 40 and my hips a tad above a size 44.  I traced a size 38 for the top and then on the skirt piece I traced a 38 - to match the top and graded out to a 42.  Fits perfect.  What are the odds?

The pattern calls for 1 7/8 - 2 yards but I only had/used 1.5 yards.  I knew going in that my fabric would be my worst problem.  The shifting and slipping is enough to drive anyone batty.  I sort of cheated and sprayed a ton of starch on my fabric and let it dry a few times so it was stiff and easier to work with.  This helped me cut it out.  I used no pins - green bean cans worked wonders and I had tissue paper underneath, then fabric, then the pattern tissue paper on top - like a sandwich.  This helped too.

I didn't mark my fabric or pin it at all. I didn't want to take the chance of ruining it.  For the darts I came up with my own clever technique.

I traced the pattern onto another piece of tissue paper.  

Then I laid the paper down and put the fabric on top - wrong side down. (ignore the fact that I have my fabric faced the wrong way - a seam ripper was involved).  I folded the fabric and paper as one - the paper had the dart lines on it.  I ironed it right on top of the paper and sewed it.   

 The paper gave me the perfect sewing line to follow 

 and once finished I simply pulled the tissue paper off.  

see! nice darts!

I sewed this with French Seams.  I lined it with a very soft and lightweight broadcloth because if I self-lined it the design would show through. I also attached both straps to front and backs when sewing the lining to the bodice - so both are encased and I didn't have to stitch the backs of them on by hand. I used fold over elastic, not folded over, for the straps.  I didn't want to mess with the satin.  Laziness is the mother of inventions!  The elastic works great and is comfortable but I should have made them a tad longer.  For some unintelligible reason I shortened them to 13.5 inches instead of the 15.75 the pattern states.

French Seams

The directions were great.  I had no problem following them.

The fabric is: Charmeuse Satin Dessert Ivory/Red/Pink I picked up way back in April 2012 for $4.45.

The husband approves so I think I did a good job.  It looks cute, fits great, and is comfortable.

I see many more Burda's in my future.

~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~