Here is what I had typed out on Jan 1st.
- This year I will slow down and take my time sewing.
- I will sew quality items I want to wear and that will wear well.
- I am going to take pattern fitting more seriously instead of being lazy and just sewing up a pattern to have it done.
Looking at your body, measurements, and fit, is no easy matter. It is hard to address those extra inches, lines, and bumps. I re-took my measurements; somehow I gained an inch in the bust - I don't know how but I won't complain. :)
- My new measurements 37-29-44
- I'm 5'7" in height
- I definitely have the genetic pear shape that runs throughout the women on both sides of my family
With my trusty measurements in hand along with my Nancy Book and began the massive alterations to the Alma. Nancy suggests taking your measurements from basically armpit to armpit and using that as your "right size". I came in at 12.5" which puts me in a US 8 for my top. This will ensure the correct fit through the shoulders and neck area - the hardest place to alter. This will also prevent that terrible neck gaping I hate so much (suggesting incorrect size to fit bust, not shoulders). Now I need to compare my measurements to the size 8 measurements on the pattern envelope.
| Me | Pattern | Change needed | |
| bust | 37 | 34.5 | +2.5 |
| waist | 29 | 28.5 | +0.5 |
| hip | 44 | 40.5 | +3.5 |
| back waist | 13.5 | 14 | -0.5 |
The back waist indicates my swayback issues. Each "change needed" is divided by 4
Starting with the back piece I went in Nancy's order.
1. Hem (added 1" in length at waistline indicated by my waist to hip measurement)
2. Swayback -took out 1/2"
3. Square Shoulder Adjustment
4. Full Bust Adjustment of 1/2"
5. Waist increase of 1/8"
6. Hip increase of 3/4"
Seriously this took me like 1.5 hours to trace and correct each part individually on the back piece alone. Sigh. I was exhausted. Then I went to the front which went faster at just an hour. I didn't have the swayback for the front but had to adjust the bust dart and move the vertical darts down an inch front and back. I traced my facings off the changed pieces. Then I shortened/flattened the sleeve cap by an inch. Joy has an excellent tutorial on this. I didn't want to ease in so much this time on the sleeve and also didn't want the gathers.
Now it is muslin time. With all these changes I definitely want to do a muslin. I excitedly sewed up the muslin and .... FAIL! Why am I such a perfectionist? Why did I start this from scratch? The muslin speaks for itself:
URG. Madness. The bad: sleeve shoulder is WAY too tight. There is a ton of fabric poof under my armpit. The "armpit" of the shirt is nowhere near my armpit. Poof under bust doesn't show my waist definition. Poof in the back above the swayback. The good? The shoulder width fits nicely, the hip area has more ease so it fits better than my last one.
This took any sewing mojo I had and squashed it. Seriously, my other Alma fit better and all I did was size down to an 8 and square shoulder adjust it.
What I've learned:
- overfitting a pattern is bad
- If something fits well, don't try to re-do it
- stop being such a perfectionist!
- pattern ease is not my friend; I like less ease in most my clothes
And now I've spent 3 days fiddling with this with no finished garment to show for it. Time to wallow in some chocolate and move on to the next project.
~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~
I hear your frustration. I have a tendency to overfit also. One fitting book that has become my fitting bible is "Fit for Real People". That has helped me with all of my fitting challenges. I also realized earlier this week that even with my sway back adjustment, I still have to take out another 3/8 to 1/2 inch above the waist and some of what I see with your back poof is what I have been seeing for me also. Eat and drink chocolate and you will be moving on to the next project!
ReplyDeleteThanks Linda! I had considered that book at one time. I may have to make the leap and get it. I'll look into taking out more above the waist too - that swayback sure gets me every time! :)
DeleteI understand the frustration. First, think of this as a learning situation instead of a failure. Second, I am going to say that I think Nancy's Z technique works only with the Big 4 patterns. Third, your first blouse looks pretty good. Use it to make your identify the changes that you want to make to your pattern. Get some pins and pin out the areas of concern, then transfer this information to your original pattern. Try another muslin. Good luck!
ReplyDeleteThanks Darla, I appreciate your advise. I will most definitely start back with my original, less altered alma and go from there :)
DeleteWhat a massive bummer! I've just started doing fitting alterations recently, so this is a good reminder not to overfit. I enjoy making the little tweaks to patterns, but I don't think I would enjoy it so much if the muslin (or garment) fit worse than an un-adjusted one. You definitely deserve some chocolate :-)
ReplyDeleteI ate a bunch too :) Maybe this alma will fit better now because I think I gained a few pounds with all that chocolate. LOL
DeleteHow frustrating (and somewhat mysterious). I have to say I find getting fit right the absolute hardest part of sewing, much, much harder than learning a new technique. I try to alter as little as possible because at the moment I find understanding the knock-on effects of one alteration on another part of the garment so difficult to appreciate. I add length to most tops and reduce the length on most bottoms both of which are straightforward, but I really need to deal with learning a FBA properly. Good for you for giving it a go though!
ReplyDeleteThat's what I thought Philippa! How can my measurements make the top fit worse?!? lol. It is the hardest part of sewing - so frustrating.
DeleteI know exactly how you feel because I've been trying to use a fitting shell and it's just exhausting! Also trying to use the Lutterloh system and that's a trial in and of itself. I've decided to just focus on refining my stitching techniques rather than refining fit. I just really really want a sloper. So much that I'm thinking of having a 'professional' make one for me. I wonder if it's worth the money vs. the time and energy. Anyway, like I mentioned already, I'm focusing on setting in sleeves nicely, hemming details/types, and different types of seams.
ReplyDeleteGreat idea - refining techniques is always a smart move. It makes garments look so much more professional. I would love a sloper too - too bad my weight fluctuates so much.
DeleteI'm am only beginning to learn to fit; it seems so confusing to me. I pretty much sew and hope for the best! The way I look at it is, in the stores, it's all pretty much generic with sizing. Nothing is "fitted" unless you get lucky or pay a lot. I feel I'm still ahead of the game by making my own clothing. Maybe my logic is warped, but it keeps me sewing without thinking I must have that perfect fit! LOL
ReplyDeleteShirley, you crack me up! Your stuff looks like it fits so nicely! I need to sew in a more relaxed state. I made some pjs today for DD and they turned out perfect - probably because I was relaxed and in no rush.
DeleteOh, no! Can you use your first Alma to try and correct minor issues instead of the overhaul you did on this muslin? I don't think this was a total waste of time though - think of the fact that you learned something from it in terms of not trying to over fit. Plus you got chocolate in the end :)
ReplyDeleteThanks Andrea, it was a learning experience -for sure! The only chocolate I can tolerate right now is Ghiradelli semi-sweet (gluten-free ingredients) and it is divine! I will head back to the original alma and try again :D
DeleteI hope you enjoyed your chocolate!:)
ReplyDeleteHow frustrating! Sewing for ourselves is very challenging. I have the hardest times with making adjustments on patterns as it seems when I correct one issue, the correction causes another problem in a different place. But when you do end up with a good fit, it makes all the headaches and time spent worth it...maybe?;)
I'm looking forward to seeing what you sew for yourself this year. It sounds like our measurements are pretty close. Though I haven't measured myself recently so maybe mine have um, grown a bit with all those delicious holiday meals I over indulged in!
Oh I did Cindy, a bit too much!
DeleteThese darn adjustments have me in fits. I just want to get it right - I can't believe it is this hard. I agree, fixing one thing sends another thing out of whack.
It will be worth it in the end - that is probably my only driving force!
I hope to make lots for myself this year and less for the kids - LOL. I'm glad our measurements are about the same - then I can make the things I love seeing you make and know they will fit well ;-)
Oh you poor girl. All that work you deserve a great fitting garment.
ReplyDeleteI have had the best result myself just eyeballing patterns and tweaking where they don't fit.
Not the 'proper' way but I works for me.
xx N
I do! :) Thanks. You sew some amazing garments - I shall take your advice and start eyeballing it! :D
DeleteUff da, I feel for you! It's such a pretty garment, too. It seems the times I've put extra effort into fitting, it hasn't paid off. So contrary to reason! It really must have to do with the "over-fitting" problem. Or, as in quantum physics, the impossibility of predicting how one small change will affect all the other pieces of the garment. Like Nicole, the "successful" changes I've made have been an accumulation of small changes over time, partly by eyeballing, partly by slowly learning to understanding the problem behind the fit issue. And then, throwing us another curveball of course, eek, our own bodies accumulate small changes over time.
ReplyDeleteI wonder why it is that the more effort we put in, the worse the result? Perhaps my over thinking? lol. I do agree that small changes over time would yield the best results. I guess I'm too impatient for that - plus, I never really figure on sewing a pattern more than once, or twice. LOL I have too many to conquer. I did more research - a fault of mine. The bust diagonal lines I see point to either needing to raise the bust (high bust) or not having enough room for the bust (FBA). We will see what wins. The new muslin is on the table for tomorrow - ready to be sewn. Thanks Joy!
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