Ottobre Tunic and Burda Nightgown

Ottobre 05/2013 #1B Autumn Mood Tunic

I’ve made this pattern a few times before as a tee:
Teal Color Block                  Light rayon                   Color Blocked                color blocked zig-zag

And once before as a tunic: Geometric Sweater Knit Tunic



Size: I have been doing a lot of flat pattern measuring lately.  It does not guarantee fit, but does get really close. I took my measurements as front bust, back bust; front waist, back waist, and so on.  Then I measure on each pattern piece.  I went with a size 42 for the whole pattern due to this, and then did my alterations from there.  My current measurements put me in a 42 for shoulders/44 bust, 42 waist/46 hip


Alterations:

• added 1.5” to sleeve width and 5.25” to sleeve length to get a full sleeve instead of 3/4 sleeve
• 1/2” square shoulder
• made neckline less open by adding 1.5” to inside part of shoulder pieces (basically redrafted the neck curve)
• took off 1” from back bust
• added 5” to back hip
• At this point I sewed the tunic except hems and found I still had to bring in the waist 6” total

Instructions: Good.  They are short and too the point, but describe enough that you can sew with no issues.

Fabric: 1.5 yards of Classic Blue, Cotton/Poly/Spandex Knit (55% Cotton, 35% Poly, 10% Spandex). I purchased this for $6 total from FabricMart in December 2015.  This turned out to be a lovely weight knit.  Nice and medium weight, no trace of being sheer.  I hope it washes and wears well.



Thoughts:  I like this tunic quite a bit.  I wore it out today.  I do wish I would not have added the pockets.  I feel they are in a weird high spot on me.  In the future I would probably add side seam pockets instead of these patch pockets.  My hands keep trying to go into the side seam, searching for a pocket! I love the mod vibe the tunic gives though.

Burdastyle 12/2008 #114 ~ Nightgown

Size:    size 42, but I graded out the back hip to a size 46 to accommodate my larger rear. 

Alterations:

• After sewing this up I had to take off a total of 8 inches from bust to waist. 
• The neckline was a bit low before adding binding so I did not take off any seam allowance there, only sewing on the edge of the binding.
• The neckline piece was 5 inches too long. 
• My fabric was so loose and drapey that the pleats do not want to stay; however the pattern calls for loose and drapey fabric. 
• I did not feel like hemming the bottom of the nightgown so I just cut off the 1.5” hem allowance.  The length is perfect. 

Instructions:  These were actually easy to follow.  I had no issues.  They were short and to the point, but this is usual for Burda. 



Fabric: 1.5 yards of Black and white rayon striped knit from Hancocks.  Purchased April 30th, 2015 for $5.80 total.  This fabric was very lightweight and a little slipperier than most rayon jerseys I have sewn with. It is soft though so perfect for sleepwear.

Here is a close up of the pleats at the front neckline

Thoughts:  This pattern is large, you may want to size down.  It works for a nightgown but I probably will not make it again.  I was considering the top version of this pattern but not anymore!  I just do not like how the pleats act in this kind of fabric. 

Renfrew, Ottobre, Plantain

**Picture intensive post ahead**

I wear comfortable clothes.  Since most of my day is spent at home, this consists of jeans and a tee.  In the winter I freeze so the tee becomes long-sleeved.  I don't have many to choose from in my closet and one of my favorite makes is pilled beyond belief now, which means I needed to make some more.  I decided to sew up three different patterns and compare them.

My current measurements: 35-28-42. Height is 5'7"

Sewaholic Renfrew 1201:

I have wanted to try the renfrew for awhile now - always being the last to jump on the bandwagon.  I ordered it from Patternreview because their shipping is so fast to me.

Size and adjustments: Shoulders/bust 6, waist 8, hip 12. 1/2" square shoulder adjustment.

Instructions:  Pet peeve, no "front" mark on sleeves. Plus, what is up with #6.  "sew collar pieces wrong sides together" This means that the right side is facing up, but the diagram shows the wrong side facing up. Plus, when I followed the directions sewing W sides together it was clearly wrong. Am I the only one who had issue with this?  Also, I wonder why the collar has to have a top seam anyway, can't it be cut in just one piece? or is the seam to add structure? are they separate to save fabric? I'll test this theory on my next one.

I feel like a ninja!

Fabric: 10 oz. Charcoal Cotton lycra from Purpleseamstress in Oct 2014. 2 yards, $13. Love this fabric.

Fit: Love love love the fit. I can see why everyone loves this pattern.  The cuffs and band are a great idea, though I still like to finish with my coverstitch for hems. The sleeves are a tad tight for me so my next one I will add width there.
I don't like how the neckline with the cowl is out so far on my shoulders.  I can see this line when I wear the cowl and it bugs me. I may try to work out a way to have it less wide here.

Ottobre 05/2013 #1A:

I have sewn this one up a few times now and you all know I love it.  My loose striped version is slowly pilling but I wear it a lot.  My color blocked zig-zag is going strong and gets worn once per week.  My favorite of them all, the blue/gray color blocked is pilled beyond belief.  The blue fabric is poor quality and I am sad I can't wear it. So I wanted to re-make that one with better quality fabric. The tunic version I made I don't wear very much, sadly.

Size and adjustments: Shoulder, bust, waist 40 to 44 at hip.  1/2" Square shoulder adjustment, added 1/2" to outside of shoulder in armhole because shoulders were too narrow.  Separated a yoke from bodice to color block. 1/2" swayback adjustment. Did not add a pocket.

Instructions: Great instructions.  I had no issues with them.

Fabric: 7 oz. Teal Blue Jersey Knit from fashionfabricsclub in Aug 2014. 3/4 yard, $4.13; gray bottom is charcoal gray sweater knit from fashionfabricsclub in Sept 2013. 3/4 yard, $2.96. I wish I had bought more of the gray because it is soft and beefy.

Fit:  Great fit. I think it is a sleek look.  I need to add a wedge to the back and take it out from the front.  The drag lines I'm getting from bust to waist are from my large rear pulling the fabric at the hip.

Deer & Doe Plantain:

I made this up one other time in short sleeve and liked the style.  Plus I had to try those cute patches out on the elbows!

Size and adjustments: 38 shoulder, 40 bust and waist, 44 hip. 1/2" square shoulder adjustment, darted 1/2" out of neckline to armpit because of my hollow chest. I also took in 3/4" to 1" from waist to hip on front piece because front was too big.

Instructions:  The instructions are great. I had no issues with them.  I just purchased a binder attachment for my coverstitch and had a bit of an issue with the knit binding for the neckline wanting to fold wrong. I got it to look ok and left it at that. I added the tiny pocket from the Ottobre pattern because I love tiny pockets and it was a way to incorporate more gray into the top.

Fabric: 10 oz. Royal Blue Cotton Lycra. From the Purpleseamstress in Nov 2014. 2 yards, $13.  This fabric sews up so beautifully and is the perfect weight of not light and not heavy. Gray band and patches are Laguna Stretch Knit Heathered Pepper from fabric.com.  I want to caution. The fabric calls for 2.25 yards and it really needs it.  I wanted the neckband to be in the royal blue but didn't have enough for even that small bit of fabric after squeezing the other pieces out of 2 yards.

Fit: Love it. For a free pattern this sucker fits great!  And these elbow patches make me smile.

** So I recently stumbled upon the Purpleseamstress on facebook, she also has a website. And thought I'd try her knits. They have all gotten glorious reviews.  Well they are worth it!  Not only are the solids cheap ($6.50/yard, cotton lycra) they are also a dream to sew with. Not lightweight, not heavyweight. Just perfect.  And Melinda ships super duper fast.  I recommend her to anyone.  She lists special things on her facebook page each day and you can order both on her website and on her facebook. She also replies to you almost instantly if you contact her via FB.  **  I know good quality knits are hard to come by so I wanted to share. I do not get any sort of payment from telling you this.

Oh, and let's get these tally's back in order here;
Totals for the year to date:
Purchased in Oct and Nov: 41.25 yards (oops, but I was ill and it felt good)
Stash from before this year, sewn this year: 44.75 yards
All Fabric sewn/sold/gave-away in 2014: 182 yards
Fabric purchased in 2014: 195.75 yards

~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~

Color-blocked Top, Ottobre Hack 05/2013 #1

Pattern Hack of Ottobre 05/2013 #1A

I made this color blocked top before with blue and gray. The problem is that the blue knit is light and rayon.  It pills like crazy.  I wanted to make another one because I love to wear that one and I'm sure it's going to bite the dust soon.

This is technically the 4th time I've used this pattern - I think it's safe to say I love it. Sizing is 40 bust/waist and 44 hip.
Tunic
Light rayon
Color Blocked
and now this one

I did make some changes to the pattern to get a better fit.

• too tight sleeves: Using the palmer/pletsch method I sliced and split the sleeves to add 1/2" more width. They are comfortable now but I honestly would love another 1/4" to 1/2" more
• Hip: Added 1/2" to each side in back only to accommodate my larger rear
• Shoulder: added 1/2" to shoulder width on both sides. I noticed in my blue one that the shoulders did not reach the end of my shoulder pivot bone. The adjustment helped and the shoulders now sit correctly
• Swayback: 1/2" this time in addition to the 1/2" previously but looking at the side picture I think I may need to go even more. Sigh. I feel like I have the biggest sway ever. 

I kept these changes: 

• 1/2" square shoulder adjustment
• 1/2" sloped out of front and back from neck tapering to 0 at hip. This helps with the neck gaping I keep getting.  (I'm thinking I may have to start cutting a smaller size at shoulders and neck)

I really, really love this pattern. I have a red one planned too: solid, not color blocked, and short sleeves.
This was just the top I needed to get me back in the sewing groove.  The fabric is lovely - thick but not too thick - thin enough but not too thin.  Just right.  It is the Laguna knits from Kaufmann.  I just hope they wash well.  (Sorry, this is not stash fabric. I bought this in Jan. specifically for this top).

In the future:

• re address that darn swayback
• add a bit more to the sleeve width
• take a bit in on the front piece only - it is a bit loose
• possibly work on a forward shoulder adjustment

Yards out in 2014 to date: 31
Yards in: 32.5
Stash used: 10.5 yards

I sewed K's American Girl Doll a cute dress with some of the scraps too. The black is the bottom of an old T-shirt so I cheated and used that hem! lol.  This is one full skirt! Pattern Simplicity 4654

K attached the snaps using my new Prym pliers. Holy cow do they make a difference. I have the snap setter and dritz pliers but neither worked well and my hands couldn't take the abuse. These Prym ones are so freaking amazing!! They line up perfect each time. They hold the snaps well when applying, and they look amazing.  I picked them up at Wawak.com for cheap compared to the other places selling them. $33 for the set and it comes with all the adapters and snaps. you can use it for anorak/coat button snaps, camping snaps, and eyelets too. That is not an affiliate link, I just love these pliers.

~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~

Ottobre 05/2013 #1A - J.Crew Knockoff

I saw this cute color block shirt on J. Crew's website a week or so ago and decided I would make a similar top.  I used Ottobre 05/2013 #1A.
Outcome? Love it!

Pattern:
traced a size 40 on top and sleeves and sloped out to a 44 at the hips. my measurements: 36-29-42 and I'm 5'7".

Inspiration:

Alterations:
-long sleeves not 3/4
- 1/2" square shoulder adjustment - Nancy's Pivot and slide method
- 1/2" slope out of each front and back neckline to compensate for gaping.
- 1/2" swayback adjustment - Nancy's Pivot and slide method
- I traced the top of each front and back "yoke" then added seam allowance; and then traced out the bottom parts.  I used my first tracing of this top seen here and simply laid a new tissue paper on top to do the separate top and bottom traces.
- Used fusible stay tape for shoulders

Sewing:
Sewed up like a dream.  Attach front "yoke to bottom front. same for back. sew shoulders. attach neck in the round. sew in sleeves. hem sleeve bottoms. sew from sleeve end to armpit to bottom of shirt all in one swipe.
I used my serger for most sewing.  I did baste in sleeves and neck round with my sewing machine.  I used a twin needle and walking foot on the sleeve and bottom shirt hem.
This was a fast sew and I was so happy when it fit well.
I wore this all day today at my Mom's Thanksgiving and it was very comfortable.

Changes for next time:
- re-address swayback. maybe try a different method?
- make sleeves wider, they are a bit snug.

Fabric: mystery blue knit - very soft and stretchy. most likely a rayon blend. 1 yard;
gray knit leftover from Burda cardigan 62" wide, 1/2 to 3/4 yard used "charcoal gray sweater knit" $4.94/yard from fashion fabrics club.

I need to make some more things from this issue. It is one of my favorites and I think I have earmarked almost every page!

** I also wanted to note that I appreciate all the advice on my problem polo dress ** I will be adding a dart and moving forward with it soon.  On a similar note, I noticed I have faint traces of those lines on this shirt too and studied myself in the mirror with it on.  It seems my large rear is pulling the bottom shirt front fabric toward my back end and creating drag lines - on this shirt anyway.  Hmm. possibly add more fabric in the back width-wise to cover the larger rear. Will this solve the swayback? or will I still need to take out some length in the back for that.  We will have to see!

~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~

Jalie 2805 vs. Ottobre 05/2013 #1A

A face off of two long-sleeve shirt patterns.  Which one is better? Which one wins?
Ottobre 05/2013 out of blue knit stripe. Jalie 2805 out of red knit stripe

For both shirts I went with my measurements.
In Ottobre this meant size 40 for bust, waist, and then 44 for hips
In Jalie this meant "U" for bust, "T" for waist, and then "X" for hips

For both shirts I completed my square shoulder adjustment and sloped 1/2" out of the back neck area.
In Ottobre I forgot to slope 1/2" out of the front neck. doh!
In Jalie I remembered to slope 1/2" out of the front neck. 

For both shirts I sewed them the same way. 
* Twill tape in shoulders. sewed both shoulders first.
* Same gray rib binding for necks attached in the round
* Same gray thread for topstitching
* Sleeves basted in with sewing machine before serging
* Serged all seams
* Reinforced armpit areas by sewing a straight stitch within the serged stitch.
* Sewed sleeve hems before sewing sleeve sides
* Attached sleeve flat and then sewed sleeve side and shirt side all in one.
* Wonder Tape for sleeve and bottom hems.

Differences:
Ottobre fits looser.  
Neckline is lower and more open. 
Hem is not straight but in a U shape front and back
White Serger thread used
Took almost 2 hours to sew

Jalie fits very snug
Neckline higher
Shaped more - fits nicer over bust, waist, hip
Hem is straight
Black Serger thread used
Took 1.5 hours to sew

Fabric:
Ottobre: 2 yards of shiny turquoise and gray striped knit.  
Lightweight and somewhat see-through.  
Picked up at Hancock just Friday. $13.98 total. 
used almost all of it. 

Jalie: 1.5 yards of a red/gray/black/tan stripe knit
nice medium weight
Picked up at Hancock a bit ago on the $3.95/yard table. $5.93 total
just managed to eek out the pieces. had to tilt the sleeves. used all of it

Likes:
Ottobre: nice loose fit. 
Sleeves weren't tight this time around
LOVE the tiny pocket!! 

Jalie: nice slim but shapely fit
Higher neckline

Dislikes:
Ottobre: 
neckline really low (and loose but that is my fault)
I don't like the "U" shaped bottom hem.  It was really hard to do with the knit fabric

Jalie: 
Tight sleeves!! OMG let my arms breathe!

So there you have it. The winner? There really isn't a clear winner. I do like some things about both and dislike a few things about both too.  I guess it depends on what style I feel like wearing slim, or loose.
And now I have 2 cute long sleeve shirts to hang out in just in time for fall!

~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~

Ottobre 05/2013 #1 Autumn Mood Tunic

When I saw the preview for the magazine this tunic jumped out at me immediately.  I knew it would be the first thing I sewed up when it came in the mail.  I even had fabric jump out and say "I'm for the tunic!"

This is #1 in the Ottobre 05/2013 issue ~ Design B

I measure in the bust at 40cm Ottobre sizing and 44cm in the hips. When I traced this out I traced a 38cm bust and graded out to 42cm at the hips.  I don't like a lot of ease in my clothing.

I performed a square shoulder adjustment which I talked about yesterday with my Washi tank.  Seriously, I'll always do this adjustment.  I've never had things fit this well in the shoulder!  I sloped out 1/2" in the front neck area (also talked about in yesterday's post).  I didn't for the back, thinking it would fit well because it is a knit..... oops.  I should have sloped out 3/4" because I had a huge back-neck-gape issue after I tried it on. At that point I could only add a back neck dart to remedy the issue.  It is not very noticeable.  I added twill tape to the shoulder seams to prevent sagging or stretching out.

I used the instructions as a loose reference because I have sewn many knit tee's now and know the flow.  The instructions do say to hem the sleeves before sewing them together.  I sew my sleeves in flat and then sew the sleeve sides and bodice sides all in one.  I didn't hem the sleeves first - ** listen to the instructions here ** hem the sleeve's first!  Those puppies are so small and tiny that it was very hard to hem them.

The sleeves are really tight too.  Like "hug my arm so tight it almost is uncomfortable" tight.  Do yourself a favor and add 1/4-1/2" to the sleeve sides.

there's that swayback again!

The fabric didn't want to sew nicely for me at all.  It was shifting and moving.  The pockets and binding are from an old polo shirt my mom gave me.  This was the worst fabric!  It was a pique knit.  Too slippery!  I managed.  The pockets gave me the most problems because the pique didn't want to sew smoothly.  I got smart for the second (my right) pocket and used wonder tape to hold it in place and then sew.  It looks way better!

Likes:
LOVE IT! - love the design
It was a fast sew - took me this afternoon - I started at 11:00 am and was done by 2:30 pm.
It has a nice shape to it

Dislikes:
sleeves too tight.

Fabric: "Geometric Print Sweater Knit" 2 yards, $7.99/yd from FabricMart.  This was one of Julie's Picks in the September 2013 mailer. Poly/Lycra 56" wide.  I used my membership coupon so I only paid  $11.48 with shipping.  I only used 1.25 yards so $7.18 total :D yay!

Miss K has already claimed the 3/4 yard plus a chunk of 30" x 18" leftover for herself!

~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~