Friday, January 29, 2016

Ottobre Tunic and Burda Nightgown


Ottobre 05/2013 #1B Autumn Mood Tunic

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I’ve made this pattern a few times before as a tee:
Teal Color Block                  Light rayon                   Color Blocked                color blocked zig-zag

And once before as a tunic: Geometric Sweater Knit Tunic

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Size: I have been doing a lot of flat pattern measuring lately.  It does not guarantee fit, but does get really close. I took my measurements as front bust, back bust; front waist, back waist, and so on.  Then I measure on each pattern piece.  I went with a size 42 for the whole pattern due to this, and then did my alterations from there.  My current measurements put me in a 42 for shoulders/44 bust, 42 waist/46 hip

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Alterations:
  • added 1.5” to sleeve width and 5.25” to sleeve length to get a full sleeve instead of 3/4 sleeve
  • 1/2” square shoulder
  • made neckline less open by adding 1.5” to inside part of shoulder pieces (basically redrafted the neck curve)
  • took off 1” from back bust
  • added 5” to back hip
  • At this point I sewed the tunic except hems and found I still had to bring in the waist 6” total
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Instructions: Good.  They are short and too the point, but describe enough that you can sew with no issues.

Fabric: 1.5 yards of Classic Blue, Cotton/Poly/Spandex Knit (55% Cotton, 35% Poly, 10% Spandex). I purchased this for $6 total from FabricMart in December 2015.  This turned out to be a lovely weight knit.  Nice and medium weight, no trace of being sheer.  I hope it washes and wears well.

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Thoughts:  I like this tunic quite a bit.  I wore it out today.  I do wish I would not have added the pockets.  I feel they are in a weird high spot on me.  In the future I would probably add side seam pockets instead of these patch pockets.  My hands keep trying to go into the side seam, searching for a pocket! I love the mod vibe the tunic gives though.


Burdastyle 12/2008 #114 ~ Nightgown

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Size:    size 42, but I graded out the back hip to a size 46 to accommodate my larger rear. 

Alterations:
  • After sewing this up I had to take off a total of 8 inches from bust to waist. 
  • The neckline was a bit low before adding binding so I did not take off any seam allowance there, only sewing on the edge of the binding.
  • The neckline piece was 5 inches too long. 
  • My fabric was so loose and drapey that the pleats do not want to stay; however the pattern calls for loose and drapey fabric. 
  • I did not feel like hemming the bottom of the nightgown so I just cut off the 1.5” hem allowance.  The length is perfect. 
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Instructions:  These were actually easy to follow.  I had no issues.  They were short and to the point, but this is usual for Burda. 

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Fabric: 1.5 yards of Black and white rayon striped knit from Hancocks.  Purchased April 30th, 2015 for $5.80 total.  This fabric was very lightweight and a little slipperier than most rayon jerseys I have sewn with. It is soft though so perfect for sleepwear.

Here is a close up of the pleats at the front necklinestripe 2

Thoughts:  This pattern is large, you may want to size down.  It works for a nightgown but I probably will not make it again.  I was considering the top version of this pattern but not anymore!  I just do not like how the pleats act in this kind of fabric. 

Saturday, January 23, 2016

February Sewing Plans


BurdaStyle 11/2006 #116A
Long Sleeve Wrap Top                         Red lightweight Terry Fabric in Stash
112006116b 506-ruby2tone1


Burdastyle 12/2008 #114
Nightgown                                           Black and White Rayon Jersey in Stash
finished and blogged
122008114                            rayon jersey


Ottobre 05/2013 #1A
Tunic                                                  Navy Blue Cotton/Polyester/Spandex Knit in Stash
finished and blogged
ottobre 052013 1 tunic                                5196-d1-150


Ottobre 05/2011 #13
Cardigan                               Dark Blue Boucle Sweater Knit in Stash.
052011 13 otto                   171744_847236e4-d37a-493c-bebd-11f0675c4784


Jalie Eleonore
Jeans                                                  Midnight Indigo Stretch Denim 9 oz. in Stash
3461_cover_1            Small_CV-969

Ginger Jeans
                                                                Stretch Medium Weight Dark Denim 7.4 oz in Stash
Ginger-skinny-jeans-pattern-promo  Large_0421660

Sunday, January 17, 2016

Jalie Jeans and other things

 Jalie 2908

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I would really like to make myself some jeans this year.  To prepare for this I purchased the Ginger Jeans pattern and I already have Jalie 2908.  Surprisingly Miss K asked me to make her a pair of jeans because “the stuff you make fits better.”  Yay!  Since children take less fabric I thought I’d make Miss K a pair first to iron out any kinks in the pattern before moving on to my own pair.  Also, to make them before she changes her mind.  Miss K hates jeans and never wears them.  She is a yoga pants girl. 

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Jeans are made with negative ease so I started with Miss K’s actual measurements.  This meant I cut a size “Q” for her (13 US).  I had to take 3 inches off the height because her inseam is 26, not 29 like the pattern is drafted for.  I learned from
The Perfect Fit: The Classic Guide to Altering Patterns
that the proper way to shorten pants is to fold the hem to the thigh (crotch) line and make a crease; this is the knee line.  Then fold from hem to knee line and make a crease.  Finally from knee to thigh (crotch) line and make a crease.  You will shorten equally on the last two creases you made (between the thigh and knee, and between knee and hem).  As a side note, I highly recommend this book.  It has tons of fit information with pictures for lots of fit issues.  It also gives an easy fix as well as a more complex fix. 

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I spread my sewing out between 4 days.  I had my regular machine with normal thread and my vintage Kenmore with top-stitching thread.  This worked perfect because I didn’t have to keep switching out thread in the same machine.  The instructions for these jeans are great. I read the words for each step, then looked at the pictures.  I had no issues sewing these up.  I’m very surprised at how RTW these turn out.  Jalie drafted a great pair of jeans!  I am now confident in making some for myself. 

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The fit turned out great for Miss K.  The inseam was perfect.  I think the waist is a tiny bit snug on her but that is all.  She of course isn’t used to jeans so she thinks they are tight and decided she won’t wear them.  I’m glad she at least tried them and I call them a success because I was able to try out the pattern before I made them for myself.  I snuck the completed pair into her drawer… one can hope right?

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In other craftiness, I have made more things with my Silhouette cameo.  I will most likely just show you once a month what I’ve made with it.  I like to keep an online account for my own personal reasons. 

Miss K and I love the Pixar movie short “The Blue Umbrella” and she asked me to make this design with these words.  She picked the color of the words.  “Rain showers my spirit and waters my soul”
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Before the utterly tragic loss of David Bowie I made Miss K this shirt.  
We both love the Labyrinth movie. Here is the front:
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and here is the bottom of the back of the shirt.
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Miss K designed this tee.  I weeded out the red for the fox and the blue words, she weeded the yellow.  She pressed the design into the shirt.  The “O” in the fox is a monocle. . . She’s a creative child.  This tee used to be Mr. T’s but he didn’t wear it much and K likes it. 
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Mr. T got a surprise when he went to turn on his light one day (Link from Legend of Zelda)
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I’ve been working on a line of Studio Ghibli characters above Miss K’s bedroom door.  Here are just a few from L to R: Turnip head (howl’s moving castle), the cat, Jiji, from Kiki’s delivery service, Catbus (totoro), and Sophie and Calcifer (howl’s moving castle).  We hope to do a lot more.
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My laundry room got a cute design.  Mr. T picked it out.
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I added this above a door frame in our living room.  Our other door frame has “family” above it.
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This shirt is hot off the press as you can still see the iron marks.  Mr. T has these moose pajama shorts that this shirt goes with as a set.  So I added a moose to the shirt to match the shorts better. 
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Mr. T also picked this crazy Pokemon design (left).  As well as a Fallout 4 Vault Boy picture (right). 
20160107_132651                         20160112_154408

As you can see the Cameo is loads of fun. I learn something new each week, too.


I’ve rearranged my sewing room 3 times since the New year.  Funnily, I have it back where it used to be; that seems to work best for me.  I can’t sew in a cluttered area.  It stresses me out.  I will start sewing the jeans for me next week.  I also have 2 tunics that I want to sew up.  I have a medical procedure going on this week so I won’t get any sewing done.  I think I’ll just browse all my patterns if I’m able.  I usually get loads inspiration that way. 

Take Care and Happy Sewing!

~Kristin~