Saturday, November 30, 2013

Ottobre 05/2013 #1A - J.Crew Knockoff

I saw this cute color block shirt on J. Crew's website a week or so ago and decided I would make a similar top.  I used Ottobre 05/2013 #1A.
Outcome? Love it!

traced a size 40 on top and sleeves and sloped out to a 44 at the hips. my measurements: 36-29-42 and I'm 5'7".


-long sleeves not 3/4
- 1/2" square shoulder adjustment - Nancy's Pivot and slide method
- 1/2" slope out of each front and back neckline to compensate for gaping.
- 1/2" swayback adjustment - Nancy's Pivot and slide method
- I traced the top of each front and back "yoke" then added seam allowance; and then traced out the bottom parts.  I used my first tracing of this top seen here and simply laid a new tissue paper on top to do the separate top and bottom traces.
- Used fusible stay tape for shoulders

Sewed up like a dream.  Attach front "yoke to bottom front. same for back. sew shoulders. attach neck in the round. sew in sleeves. hem sleeve bottoms. sew from sleeve end to armpit to bottom of shirt all in one swipe.
I used my serger for most sewing.  I did baste in sleeves and neck round with my sewing machine.  I used a twin needle and walking foot on the sleeve and bottom shirt hem.
This was a fast sew and I was so happy when it fit well.
I wore this all day today at my Mom's Thanksgiving and it was very comfortable.

Changes for next time:
- re-address swayback. maybe try a different method?
- make sleeves wider, they are a bit snug.

Fabric: mystery blue knit - very soft and stretchy. most likely a rayon blend. 1 yard;
gray knit leftover from Burda cardigan 62" wide, 1/2 to 3/4 yard used "charcoal gray sweater knit" $4.94/yard from fashion fabrics club.

I need to make some more things from this issue. It is one of my favorites and I think I have earmarked almost every page!

** I also wanted to note that I appreciate all the advice on my problem polo dress ** I will be adding a dart and moving forward with it soon.  On a similar note, I noticed I have faint traces of those lines on this shirt too and studied myself in the mirror with it on.  It seems my large rear is pulling the bottom shirt front fabric toward my back end and creating drag lines - on this shirt anyway.  Hmm. possibly add more fabric in the back width-wise to cover the larger rear. Will this solve the swayback? or will I still need to take out some length in the back for that.  We will have to see!

~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~

Thursday, November 21, 2013

Fitting Woes - To Wad or not to Wad

I have been busy sewing lately - just not busy posting! oops! lol.

First let's talk about the mess I have on my hands.  I'm working on a Burda Polo Shirt Dress.
The fabric: Red Lacoste knit with very little stretch.
I performed a square shoulder adjustment of 1/2"
I also completed a swayback adjustment of 3/4"
I used my size 40 top to 44 hip.
I added 1/4" to each hip (gently sloped from waist)

Here is the problem photo.

Why. Why do I get those stinking lines from chest diagonally to waist/hip?  I have googled my eyes out with no answers.  I am awaiting on Nancy's "pattern fitting with confidence" to arrive today from amazon.
Now I almost, almost think I need to add a bust dart? Check below picture.
On your left side (my right) I have sloppily pined up the fabric in a makeshift dart (as best I could while still wearing the dress).  See how the lines disappear? The right has no pin/dart and lines - the left has pin/dart with no lines.  Do I need to add a dart?

This is a work in progress, it has not been pressed out and seams are basted. Please excuse the massive amount of wrinkles and lack of buttons.  I also think the sleeve length is crap on me.

Suggestions? Please? lol.

Also, I've been slowly adding bits and pieces to K's wardrobe:

Some cute Jalie 3242 Undies. Seriously the best fitting undies. (Size O for K - 4 sizes up from her normal size) I love mine - too much! lol. I need to make more. And they use such little scraps. 

Jalie 2805 Size "O" - 4 sizes up from her measurements.  l/s tee - sort of a color block with leftovers. It fits her wonderfully and I plan to make more. (note: I do need to shorten it 2 inches as it is quite long)

Ottobre 06/2013 Leggings #38 Size 134 - wild leftover ITY from my recent tie knot tank. Perfect over K's leotard for dance class. 

So that is what I've been up too.  Currently, I am tracing out a l/s color block knock-off tee for me that I saw on J.Crew - excited.

What have you been sewing lately?
oh! and do you have any suggestions for my red wadder up top?

~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~

Sunday, November 10, 2013

Burda Tie Tank Top ~ 05/2007 #130

I know, I know, it's not summer.  The warmth is far from here now; but I wanted to make this top for a long time and finally found the perfect fabric.  So this tank is neither season appropriate nor color appropriate for fall.  That's fine by me.

Cold weather has arrived, so crappy indoor pictures will be the norm until May :(  boo.

Ok, Burda 05/2007 #130.  I fell in love with this top when browsing the magazine.  It looked beautiful on the busty model so naturally, I wanted to make it up. It is an easy sew and a cute design.  I bought 2 yards of this crazy tropical floral print from fashionablefabricclub.  It is labeled ITY Red Multi Jersey Knit, 60" wide and is a poly/lycra jersey.  $4.95 a yard.  I decided the print was too busy to have all over so I only used it for the front and used a blue from my stash of unknown knit.

close up of knots

This tank has huge ties coming off the top of the pattern so 1.5 to 2 yards is needed for that length.  These ties then make the front and back - attaching in the back.  I cut and sewed a 40 at the bust and sloping to a 44 at the hips.  I didn't make any adjustments. I did however fully line the front because my fabric is pretty light - Burda has you half line just the bust.  I also added a modesty panel because this top is very low cut. And I didn't gather the straps in the back but now seeing the pictures, I think it would have been cute to do that. I also added clear elastic to the neck "V" to help stabilize (from the modesty panel down and back up again). The modesty panel is attached to the lining only because it was added at the last minute.

I followed the directions and they were sufficient.  I spent some time on the internet looking up pictures of knots but then decided these were just the easiest.  The lining peeks out in the front no matter how much understitching and pressing I did. The fabrics were slippery so I used a combination of tissue paper and wonder tape when sewing up. I also used my serger whenever possible.

Conclusion: Love it. Even though I won't be able to wear it much in the winter I still love it.  This will be great for the summer heat.  However, it is a bit big on me so in the future I'll sew a 38 on top but keep the 44 on the hips.  And, even with the modesty panel, when I bend forward everything hangs out.  So a smaller bust size and tighter straps would work great.

wearing with a cardi for winter takes the fun knot detail out :-(

~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~

Friday, November 1, 2013

Resolution Totals October 2013

Just a few more months left this year.  I'm excited to tally my year total at the end.  

Here are the October makes:

In keeping up with my sewing resolutions for this year I plan on doing a tally-type thing on the first of each month regarding the prior month to keep me on track for the year!

October 2013

Items Completed: 13
Resolution: 3

Unfinished projects completed: 0
Resolution: 1-2

New items in the Etsy shop: 28
Resolution: 2

Avg Blog Posts Weekly: 1.75
Resolution: 1

Tutorials created: 0
Resolution: more

Let's see, October, it was an alright sewing month.  I made myself 4 things.  K got a lot of bottoms that she needed and I finally finished that sweatshirt for T.  I also listed a bunch of things in the Etsy shop.    

What I need to work on:  UFO's. and tutorials. 

~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~